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Bent D30?? You get to give your $.02

kenny811

kenny811

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Damascus, OR
So in completing my 93 build, come to find out the pass side axle C is bent. The shop that its at, ( Carl's Alignment ) Carl thinks he can put it back to the way it should be ( the issue was the camber). If so I have seen different gussets, stiffeners & trusses. Are they worth it? I did see a C gusset that is suppose to strengthen the C quite a bit. Is it worth it for the long haul? I will be looking for a new axle housing but I sure would like to drive the jeep for a while before I tear it down again.
 
Never thought the Inner C would bend first, I always thought it would be the axle tube, especially on the long side. What are your plans, hard core wheeling, or mall crawling?
It can be straightend, sometimes after they are straightended they are better that stock. But definetly have it reinforced , because once metal is bent it bends that much easier next time.
 
Plans are mild to a little more wheeling, Waterfall, Fire break 5 Sand Lake, and maybe a trip to the mall but only for an Orange Julius. Not a hard core rock crawler, and a daily driver. I will look more into the gussets, I saw the one at Iron Rocks. But really dont know much more about them then that.
 
Hu? Anytime I have heard of a frame being bent they always say use frame reinforment because now that its been bent it will bend way easier, is that because they had to heat it up? Or because the metal has now been fatigued?
 
I was always tough fatigue, not sure it has anything to do with heat. But for sure the C is nothing like straightening a tie rod.
 
crazymoose1990 said:
Hu? Anytime I have heard of a frame being bent they always say use frame reinforment because now that its been bent it will bend way easier, is that because they had to heat it up? Or because the metal has now been fatigued?
Click to expand...
Two thoughts on that:
1) If you bent it, you should reinforce it so it doesn't bend again.

2) If you bend something, and don't bend it back (or bend it almost all the way back), the shape has changed and the frame is no longer as strong even though the actual steel has a higher yield strength. The shape of all frames is critical (2" wide x 4" high frame is very different then a 4" wide x 2" high frame, even though they are the same piece of steel).

Fatigue can also play a roll, but fatigue failure can occur without something being deformed. People have seen this in the way of cracks showing up in areas that aren't bend. I think a bigger concern is that as the steel is "work hardend" though, it becomes more brittle, which can lead to more failure/desire to add reinforcment.

So yes, if I had a bent frame rail, I would add reinforcment to it. The bent "C" posed in the original post is more optional.
 
Good point!! I will weld in some gussets as soon and find the right ones. Makes sence to beef it up if I can. Not really sure how it got bent. But no matter if Carl's Alignment can put it back to where in needs to me it should all work out.
 
This is my Dana 30, I'm on 35s with 4:56s full case locker
ee1ad7c8.jpg


Iron rock Inner tube sleeves, and C gussets

Home made truss.

2c15880a.jpg


They took a little work putting them on, someone said there up side down. I don't know.

21dd946e.jpg


It's seems like over kill, but I wanted the weak point to be the shifts and I didn't want to bend my Dana 30

I think it was worth it
 
Yeah I had I know this before I stuffed my axle with new gears & Aussie I would have done this for sure. So I have the Iron Rock web page open, are they a pretty good fit and can they be welded in with the axle housing in the jeep??
 
kenny811 said:
Yeah I had I know this before I stuffed my axle with new gears & Aussie I would have done this for sure. So I have the Iron Rock web page open, are they a pretty good fit and can they be welded in with the axle housing in the jeep??
Click to expand...

Yeah the tubes just slide in.
Just weld the ends, I don't think plug welding it did anything

ea94150b.jpg
 
RedJeep2.0 said:
This is my Dana 30, I'm on 35s with 4:56s full case locker
ee1ad7c8.jpg


Iron rock Inner tube sleeves, and C gussets

Home made truss.

2c15880a.jpg


They took a little work putting them on, someone said there up side down. I don't know.

21dd946e.jpg


It's seems like over kill, but I wanted the weak point to be the shifts and I didn't want to bend my Dana 30

I think it was worth it
Click to expand...

Yep there down side up.
 
I am in the process of doing this aswell, I went with the Nitro Gear Tube sleeves, Iron rock Inner C gussets, and a mini truss on top, Aswell as a Detroit locker, Nitro Alloy shafts, and nitro Ring and pinion that i am going to have Cryo treated..

With a U-bolt kit holding the front driveline on, the only thing i'm worried about is the tiny ring gear.. we'll see!
 
NW-ZJ-SCOTT said:
I am in the process of doing this aswell, I went with the Nitro Gear Tube sleeves, Iron rock Inner C gussets, and a mini truss on top, Aswell as a Detroit locker, Nitro Alloy shafts, and nitro Ring and pinion that i am going to have Cryo treated..

With a U-bolt kit holding the front driveline on, the only thing i'm worried about is the tiny ring gear.. we'll see!
Click to expand...

Ditch the shafts, it takes 15mins to swap a shaft. Let it brake, save your R&P
 
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