WJ steering

I know where to find al the info on parts and such. My question is this. Can it be done in stages? What I mean is just the knuckles/brakes as one part, then later on relocate the tracbar and go OTK? If I did just swap the braes on, can I run the XJ steering setup under the knuckle? Or can I just use the stock WJ setup until I can relocate my tracbar?

From what I've heard, and I see no reason why it won't work, you can still run the stock XJ steering with them. Of course you'll still have to swap the knuckles/brakes/hubs/hub spacers/ball joints/etc, but you can run the stock steering on the lower WJ arms UTK, the upper arm on the PS just wont be used. Upgrade the steering and trackbar stuff later on, good idea for the budget minded.

Any gain in just swaping all the WJ steering stuff over at the same time?

No, its too long, so you would need to cut and sleeve it.
Plus you really need to move the trackbar and draglink at the same time

You can just cut the drag link and retap provided you have the tap. I just happen to have the left hand thread version needed (don't ask) so started playing with the WJ components.

The WJ's axle is 3" wider so I took 1.25" out of the drag link and cut the full 3" out of the tie rod. And there I stopped. In order to turn the now two piece tie rod back into a one piece rod, it would need to have a spud installed. Problem is the IC of the tubing used.

What I found was that I would need to have a piece of bar stack turned down to fit. Schedule 80 steel tubing comes close but in this application, close does not count. I was going the drill the WJ pieces, install the spud and spot weld the assy to hold the alignment and then plgu (rosette) weld the holes. The spud would need to be a minimum of 6" long to provide the strength needed in the repair.

Som might say that you can sleeve it externally but that is not a proper repair and can fail at the weld points. Going internal and spacing the plugs out resolves all that.

But, JKS sells the parts all ready ready to go so why bother. I was doing the investigation to see what it would take. This is what happens when an Engineer retires. starts looking for the hard way to do things just to have something to do...

And just to show you guys what a dead game sport I am, here is the link to the JKS page:
http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/m...6_957&Store_Code=JKS01&Category_Code=FABParts

why not just save your money and swap everything over at once?

FYI> I ran the WJ knuckles with JKS drag-link/tie-rods all with a RE HD trackbar and bracket going to the factory axle mount. I used a stock YJ pitman arm and mounted the tie-rod and draglink under the knuckle style and had very little if no bumpsteer.

But why run under the knuckle stock type steering when you have the higher mounting point?

zachandandy said:

But why run under the knuckle stock type steering when you have the higher mounting point?

Click to expand...

If you don't have the JKS over the axle trackbar mount installed, then running the trackbar into the stock location isn't the end of the world. It may not be ideal, but if you want to do the swap in stages......you can.

Is there any height issues to be concerned about when mounting the stock xj steering UTK with the WJ knuckles? I remember reading somethin somwhere that the steering on the WJ knuckles mounts lower.

I read somewhere that the tie-tod mounts on the WJ knuckles are 3/4" lower than the stock xj and that a zj pitman has the corresponding amount of drop. I'm doing the wj knuckle and brake swap this weekend while maintaining the stock steering. I already have a zj pitman are in place by accident because I replaced my steering box with a zj box and couldn't get the xj arm off of the xj box. Had I actually know that I wanted to use the zj pitman arm, I could have saved myself three hours and two badly bruised fingers. The zj arm is about 3/4" lower than the xj. I'll try to remember to take pictures after the swap and write back.

98cherokeedriver said:

I read somewhere that the tie-tod mounts on the WJ knuckles are 3/4" lower than the stock xj and that a zj pitman has the corresponding amount of drop. I'm doing the wj knuckle and brake swap this weekend while maintaining the stock steering. I already have a zj pitman are in place by accident because I replaced my steering box with a zj box and couldn't get the xj arm off of the xj box. Had I actually know that I wanted to use the zj pitman arm, I could have saved myself three hours and two badly bruised fingers. The zj arm is about 3/4" lower than the xj. I'll try to remember to take pictures after the swap and write back.

Click to expand...

Awsome. This is what im looking for. I do eventually plan on doing the crossover highsteer setup later on but for now just the brakes

I hope you guys don't have a ton of lift already? The stock steering is going to be super maxed out in that configuration if you're running more than about 3 inches of lift.

With a drop pitman arm I dont think it will be more than an issue as before. The idea for me anyway, is to just temporarily use the xj steering while I build the new steering setup.

Anyone ever done the WJ OTK setup with the stock tracbar mounts? I might just do it temporary. Just dont know how bad the bump steer would be. Would it even be driveable

Are there any (after-market or Jeep) Pitman arms (Long enough) available that will allow the track bar to remain in the stock location ?

1. Buy 1.25" .25 wall DOM
2. Buy 4 threaded inserts
4. Buy 1 Ton Chevy Tie Rod end steering kit
3. Buy tapered reamer from Amazon.com

-Ream both knuckles to needed depth from the top.
-Cut DOM to length for tie rod & Drag link
-Weld in Thread inserts
-Paint

Install & Adjust toe.
-grease


DONE.

2000bluexj said:

Anyone ever done the WJ OTK setup with the stock tracbar mounts? I might just do it temporary. Just dont know how bad the bump steer would be. Would it even be driveable

Click to expand...

There isn't room to fit the tie rod OTK with the stock axle side track bar mount. It might work if you only wanted to go in a straight line... ;-)

Do not shortcut the WJ knuckle/steering swap. You really have to go all or nothing. Get all the parts and do it all at once and do it right.

I ran custom OTK steering with 3/4" heims... with no problems whatsoever
The tie rod touched my aftermarket diff cover at full lock, but that's nothing a simple design change wouldn't solve.

Why not just take the Dana 30 XJ knuckle... Fab custom double shear high steer arms, have them welded professionslly to the cast knuckle. And run actual true high steer,
With a strong DOM 1.25" tie rod? This will strengthen the knuckle AND move your tie rod up nice & high. This WJ upgrade isnt practical... Its expensive just to move your tie rod up a smudge

Instead of spending tons of money & time on an WJ "upgrade", that's nothing more than
different OEM stock equipment, do it right.

barillms said:

I ran custom OTK steering with 3/4" heims... with no problems whatsoever
The tie rod touched my aftermarket diff cover at full lock, but that's nothing a simple design change wouldn't solve.

Why not just take the Dana 30 XJ knuckle... Fab custom double shear high steer arms, have them welded professionslly to the cast knuckle. And run actual true high steer,
With a strong DOM 1.25" tie rod? This will strengthen the knuckle AND move your tie rod up nice & high. This WJ upgrade isnt practical... Its expensive just to move your tie rod up a smudge

Instead of spending tons of money & time on an WJ "upgrade", that's nothing more than
different OEM stock equipment, do it right.

Click to expand...

Except the upgrade is not primarily about moving up your tie rod up. It's more about the brake upgrade which you won't/can't get with a stock XJ knuckle (unless you do a vanco setup). The upgrade steering (and ditching the stock inverted Y) is a happy byproduct of the brake swap.