AEM F/IC-6 #1910 vs. #1913- What is the difference?

So what is the difference here. What is mopar specific about the 1913?

Might want to PM a mod and have them move this to street/performance. There are a couple people there who play with the piggyback controllers hanging there.

Not familiar myself, but based on the AEM web site:
The 1013 isn't "mopar specific", it's "Neon SRT-4" specific.
My guess is there's some hardware or electronics issue with a few cars and they make specific controllers for them,(AEM's website lists specific controllers for 3 different cars, and a specific controller for the Hemi V-8, different from the "universal" V-8 controller)
Either that, or those specific applications have such high demand, they have pre-programmed tuning maps for them.

You have a shot at getting a -1013 for cheap?

Thanks, I know there is something specifically different and why we need to use the 13 and not the 10 on Jeeps.

Found this: "...injector driver input circuitry..."?

OK, here is the real deal. In their infinite Wisdom, MOPAR decided to use a "non-industry" standard in the PCM to detect injector misfires. The PCM looks at the current that is being drawn and, if the current is out of spec, throws a code for a bad injector.

The AEM F/ICs have the PCM firing across a 1% resistor to fool the PCM into thinking that it has fired the injector. The F/IC then uses that signal as a trigger to actually fire the injector per the Fuel Table.

The only differences between the 1910 and the 1913 is the load resistors in the injector detection circuit. But it is that difference that will keep your Heep from throwing codes.

As to where I got this information, it was from a conversation I had with an AEM Design Engineer. The two part numbered F/ICs can be changed, by AEM, from one set of resistors to the other. Which means, if you accidently get the wrong one, AEM can make it right. For a price...

The F/IC8 does not have this issue as AEM went with the MOPAR load resistors. It was found, by AEM, that the other manufacturer's ECMs were happy with the MOPAR load resistors.

I run a F/IC8, for many reasons. Being able to correct the Speedometer is just one of them. The F/IC8 can also use an IAT sensor where the F/IC6 cannot.

That's what I needed. Thanks. I have to see if I can exchange or 'upgrade' my 1910 to 1913. It's never easy.
I can see that if you were just running a 7th injector with the AEM then the 1910 would be fine and not need the 1913. But If you want to control the 6 Jeep injectors and/or not the 7th injector then a 1913 is needed. I would rather have now what I will need in the future.

Glad I could be of some small service...

Sort of a pain. Can use the 1910 or 1913 to drive the 7th injector, need the 1913 to drive the stock 6 injectors.
Can't use 1913 to drive the stock 6 + 7th unless it is pulsed along with injector #1. That means it will fire all the time and not just under boost.
F/IC-8 can drive 8 stock or 6 aux injectors but not both on separate programs.

If I want to run the 7th injector all programmed on it's own and only under boost then it needs it's own unit. Don't really need the 'full' F/IC wish they only had a 'FC'.

Might have to run 1 FIC-6 #1913 to control the stock 6 injectors and ignition and run a 2nd FIC #1910 or 1913 to drive the 7th injector.

I like the use of the 7th injector to allow the fuel to help and act as a 'liquid cooling' rather than buying 6 new larger injectors and no 7th injector and run the SC dry. Could do that and then use methanol injection to cool the charge temp.

Bought a cool digital gauge with dual intake temps will place one in intake track adn other after SC in manifold.

The seventh injector is wired directly to fire with the number one injector for timing purposes. You control when it actually fires and how long it fires via the fuel table. Set the values accordingly for manifold conditions that are out of boost and it should not fire.

Just keep in mind that AEM uses Manifold ABSOLUTE Pressure. Just like the PCM. At start up (Zero RPM) the F/IC takes a snapshot of the built in MAP Sensor to determine the starting points in the fuel and ignition tables. Again, just like the factory PCM, the F/IC accounts for altitude in this fashion. Sea level is in the 14.7psia (a = absolute) and I sit here in the Springs, on a nice day at 12.5psia due to the altitude (6,500ish').

Why do I qualify the pressures? Abolute pressure depends entirely on the current barometric pressure (aka the weather) and the altitude. Air looses density with altitude and the PSIA drops off accordingly. Looking at it that way, the first two pounds of boost I get just brings the Heep to sea level performance.

You can shut the injector off... There are several good books out there on programming Fuel Injection Controllers and are well worth the time and money to read them.

I am willing to bet what you got from Boostec is somewhat less than optimal in regards to the programming. I know the "tuner" there and he and I do not at all agree on how to get the job done.

I will be adding in an IAT sensor here directly but I have to pull the manifold off as the AEM sensor uses American Pipe Thread and the Sprintex manifold is British Pipe Thread. The existing hole (for the SMT8-L) is way too small for the Sensor I have. I could have found a Sensor that might fit better, but I wanted one that was guaranteed to play nice with the AEM. Why ask for issues when they are easy to avoid.

Maybe use a 1913 to control the stock injectors (no change just yet, just let signal pass thru unmodified) and timing/retard and use a Split Second AIC for the 7th injector.

OGS- what is your IAT readings under boost?

I will let you know once the sensor is installed. As I stated, I have to take the manifold off to redrill/tap the location for the AEM IAT sensor. My factory sensor is mounted just under the TB in a location I had to add to the Sprintex compressor intake. Was short one hole to get all of the factory connections made.

But I expect it to be hot as there isn't any intercooling happening which, in turn, is the driving reason behind the restricted boost levels. You can only boost so far before heat related detonation occurs.

So why don't you run bigger injectors rather then adding a 7th injector and then have [email protected] make you a 2 bar calibration?

Well, I'll tell you why. The PCM is not capable of having a 2 bar cal.

I run larger injectors as I had zero faith in getting any sort of proper fuel distribution out of the extra injector when controlled by the AEM F/IC.

The Perfect Power SMT8-L operates in a completely different mode than the AEM. It does not use a trigger signal from any injector but instead pulses repeatedly buring the boost phase reulting in a better controlled fuel distribution.

The issue I had with the SMT8-L was ignition. And, the problem was not resolved. In truth, it was my documenting this issue caused Sprintex to go back to Perfect Power to develop a better version of the SMT8-L unit. One specifically for Sprintex.

My Root Cause Failure Analysis uncovered the differences between the PCM programming for Europe/Asia/Australia versus the US versions. There are 4 US versions for any given year OBDII Heep. But for the purposes here, the ignition parameters are the same. The Crank and Cam position Sensors must be inside of a limited window of position error or the PCM will get "confused" and momentarily shut off the spark. Best part of diagnosing this proble was the lack of CEL codes. The SMT8-L only modifies the Crank signal.

Guys, I loooked long and hard on this. Made calls to South Africa (home of Perfect Power) and spoke with the Design Engineers at AEM. My conclusion? Run larger injectors and be safe.

But, it will make a good experiment for Marty go have a go with the seventh injector. He is very careful in his process (we have multiple PMS, so I have faith in him) and will be very interested in what he finds.

As a side note, when I pull the Sprintex manifold off to install the IAT, I am thinking of using this product: http://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo+Tec/893/13575/10002/-1 applied to the under side of the manifold to reflect the heat from the exhaust.

Another thought would be a header blanket, such as this one: http://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo+Tec/893/14004/10002/-1. Could do both I suppose...

I just do not like header wrap... Which is what you get with the Sprintex kit.

The stock Jtec plus in your heep is very much so capable of running a 2 bar calibration, you need to send an email over to Chris.

I bought Gibson Ceramic coated headers and I bought this barrier to use on the under side of the intake. No header wrap for me.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reflect-A-G...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item335bf0e3f9

For the price of the thermo blanket, you can have the headers ceramic coated.

sidewaysstarion said:

The stock Jtec plus in your heep is very much so capable of running a 2 bar calibration, you need to send an email over to Chris.

Click to expand...

The real problem I see is doing a tune all remotely. Send me a file, hope it is right, try it, hopefully no kaboom, data log it, retune the file, send me the file and try it again. No thanks.

oops, brain fart.

o-gauge-steamer said:

As a side note, when I pull the Sprintex manifold off to install the IAT, I am thinking of using this product: http://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo+Tec/893/13575/10002/-1 applied to the under side of the manifold to reflect the heat from the exhaust.

Click to expand...

I've used that in the past and it didn't stick very well. Fell off and made a nice smell on the header with in a few months. I am currently using DEI's gold and it works well. There is also a new Lava mat material that is suppose to shield more heat.

CobraMarty said:

The real problem I see is doing a tune all remotely. Send me a file, hope it is right, try it, hopefully no kaboom, data log it, retune the file, send me the file and try it again. No thanks.

Click to expand...

:dunno:

Talyn said:

I've used that in the past and it didn't stick very well. Fell off and made a nice smell on the header with in a few months. I am currently using DEI's gold and it works well. There is also a new Lava mat material that is suppose to shield more heat.

Click to expand...

And this is why I ask questions before I jump off the deep end. Looking at the specs, the DEI Gold is not as efficient as the other but... If the other does not stay on, what good is it?

Thanks Talyn. As always, good advice.

BTW, I am looking at the Lava Mat as well. Anything to cut the intake air temps. Will most likely go with cowl inductuin and wrap that tube with insulation as well.