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New rear spring hangers in back...questions

Cottontail

Three-De Off-Road
Location
Nashville, TN
Ok, so I just finished the SYE install and I needed to shim the rear axle. Since it was going to be out I decided to go ahead and install the RE drop brackets, the front coil spacers, and the rear spring hangers from a Dodge Ram while I was under there. Knowing this was in the works, I have been PB Blasting for the last week. The rear axle is a Ford 8.8.

Started working on the rear today and had to stop when I busted my 21 mm socket. Unfortunately I didn't realize it was broken until the spring hanger bolt rounded off.

So, here goes:

1. What is my best option to remove the spring hanger bolt now? The bolt I confirmed is rusted to the inside of the metal sleve inside the bushing. I am thinking just running a 4' angle grinder in there and hack it off. Of course that leaves me with the issue of getting the threaded tip of the bolt out after cutting. I thought about heating it, but all that seems to do is melt the rubber bushing and make my garage stink.

2. When I get ready to button things up and shim the axle to rotate the pinion upwards, will I need to cut off and reposition my shock mounts? Seems like maybe that could be an issue.

This is not on a hoist, so I am doing this all with jack stands, a 6 ton hydraulic floor jack, and laying on my back. It isn't ideal, but it is what it is. It isn't my DD so I'm not in the unenviable postion of needing it back on the street tomorrow or anything. I can, and will, take my time with it.
 
I would turn the bolt untill its moving in the nut which will ruin the bushing. Then use a saw zaw and cut as close to the sleve as possible. Hopfuly there is enough sticking out to get a pair of vice grips on it to turn out, if not use a chise to turn it out. Thats how I did mine...

For shock mounts, you have some give in the bushings but you will just have to see what angle it ends up at.
 
Is the bolt turning in the threads? Mine did this on my 01 and i just kept turning it out. The whole sleeve and bolt came out through the box. Mushroomed the hole a bit but witht he big head on those bolt it was fine when i put a new bolt in.
 
Is the bolt turning in the threads? Mine did this on my 01 and i just kept turning it out. The whole sleeve and bolt came out through the box. Mushroomed the hole a bit but with the big head on those bolt it was fine when i put a new bolt in.

Yeah, the threads were turning just fine. I was thinking about cutting the hanger box close to the head of the bolt and pulling the bolt and sleeve out as one unit through the enlarged hole, then sandwiching it shut again with a washer when I put the new bolt in.

My only concern would be hollowing out the hole too big so that the bolt doesn't sit even and run the risk of bending the bolt over time. I guess I could JB Weld (I can't weld for real) the washer in place to keep it where it needs to be.
 
First off, I'm confused. Are you replacing the rear leaf springs? You mentioned Dodge Ram spring hangers. What?

If you're replacing the leaf spring pack, cook the shit out of the rubber bushing and get that metal sleeve cherry red. Who cares if the bushing melts away, it's just going to smell for a bit.

Get a big breaker bar on it and hammer down once it gets hot as hell. If it starts moving, don't stop. As soon as it gets hard to turn again, bring the heat back in.
 
First off, I'm confused. Are you replacing the rear leaf springs? You mentioned Dodge Ram spring hangers. What?

If you're replacing the leaf spring pack, cook the shit out of the rubber bushing and get that metal sleeve cherry red. Who cares if the bushing melts away, it's just going to smell for a bit.

Get a big breaker bar on it and hammer down once it gets hot as hell. If it starts moving, don't stop. As soon as it gets hard to turn again, bring the heat back in.

No, I am using Dodge Ram spring hangers to get a few more inches out of the rear. I am keeping the leaf pack and that is already detached. The bolt I am having issue with (on both sides) is the one that holds the spring hanger into the body of the XJ.

weld a socket to the head of the bolt

I can't weld.
 
learn, or have someone else do it. couldnt imagine owning one of these things and not being able to weld.

I did it for 2 years.

Not a big deal.

Like I said, a 13/16" should be able to be smashed on. 12-point would make it easier.

Been there done that :laugh:
 
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learn, or have someone else do it. couldnt imagine owning one of these things and not being able to weld.

Great idea, but I can promise it won't happen in the middle of this project.
 
Yeah, the threads were turning just fine. I was thinking about cutting the hanger box close to the head of the bolt and pulling the bolt and sleeve out as one unit through the enlarged hole, then sandwiching it shut again with a washer when I put the new bolt in.

My only concern would be hollowing out the hole too big so that the bolt doesn't sit even and run the risk of bending the bolt over time. I guess I could JB Weld (I can't weld for real) the washer in place to keep it where it needs to be.

I'd just keep trying to turn it. The threads will push the bolt and sleeve out.
 
If ur talking about the rear spring hanger, on mine, i twisted it till the sleeve ripped thru the outer hole. tossed a washer on it had no problems. on a previous jeep, i cut the bolt on the inside of the shackle and then cut the head off. grabbed the nub with a tiny pipe wrench and the last few threads out. and if the captive nut breaks, i just cut the bolt and ran a longer bolt to the inside of the framerail. i eventually put in shckle brackets on that one. hth

madtrixter
 
Shackles = spring hangers.

I am sure it is the upper shackle bolts are what Cottontail is refering to.

The shackles are used to attach the rear springs to the rear of the XJ.
 
I am sure it is the upper shackle bolts are what Cottontail is refering to.

The shackles are used to attach the rear springs to the rear of the XJ.

^^^ winner, winner chicken dinner.
 
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