98 XJ--Wife goes to leave work and wont crank over selenoid clattering. Co- worker jumps it and once started ,revs to 3,000 rpm and stays there. Told her to shut it off and wait for me.I jump it and starts normal and idle rpm is fine. I drive it home and intermittently the volt meter pegs over to 19 volts and check gauges light comes on. After a few minutes returns to 14 volts and check gauge light goes out, then after a few minutes it does the high voltage check gauges light again.When I get home voltage had returned to normal.Have not done any troubleshooting yet. No throttle issues on the drive home. Tried to crank after the 1/2 hour trip home and have low voltage ,wont turn over. The battery is only a few year old Optima and don't think it is a battery issue.Alternator or regulator or both? Would a bad regulator cause the initial battery drainage? Any help would be appreciated.
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Dead Battery-High Voltage
- Thread starter bghrny
- Start date
Milford Cubicle II
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Out there.
Sounds like a shady ground to me. The only time I've ever seen an voltmeter pegged is from a ground coming loose from the battery. Check the main grounds, which are from the battery to the fender, and from the back of the valve cover to the firewall. Make sure they're clean and tight. But I would suspect it's the ground coming straight off the battery.
Don't be so quick to think that. Lately, a lot of people have been having issues with crap Optimas. I know, I'm potentially opening a can of worms but all I can do is share my own personal experiences and compare them to what I know about the design of Optimas which is that in the last few years, Optimas have had an extremely higher rate of failure than even off the shelf "economy" batteries !!!1
Don't be so quick to think that. Lately, a lot of people have been having issues with crap Optimas. I know, I'm potentially opening a can of worms but all I can do is share my own personal experiences and compare them to what I know about the design of Optimas which is that in the last few years, Optimas have had an extremely higher rate of failure than even off the shelf "economy" batteries !!!1
old_man
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Loveland, Colorado
My optima came with a two year warranty and crapped out at two years two weeks.
MAY POP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake in the Hills Il.
First get the battery situated. The alternator doesnt known what to do. The computer needs a fully charged battery to operate correctly thats why the high idle when jumped.. Nothing can be diagnosed without a FULLY charged GOOD battery.
Ron
Ron
- Location
- Minneapolis, MN
Begin with basic trouble shooting of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, and from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, scrape, and clean until shiny, the cable/wire ends, and whatever they bolt to. Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad connections, or poor grounds and the ECM/ECU may behave oddly until you remedy this.
Have the battery and the alternator Load Tested in a machine that applies a simulated work load. Handheld testers are inaccurate and will often pass a weak battery.
Later models Cherokee have the regulator inside the ECU and it very seldom if ever is the cause of the symptoms described.
Have the battery and the alternator Load Tested in a machine that applies a simulated work load. Handheld testers are inaccurate and will often pass a weak battery.
Later models Cherokee have the regulator inside the ECU and it very seldom if ever is the cause of the symptoms described.
