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Antiwrap bar - belly skid and diff truss

Dr. Jeckel

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Amarillo, Texas
Well, I finally finished my antiwrap bar today. I started the bar about 2 months ago and finally got around to doing the rest this week. I also decided to make a belly skid to go between the trans/control arm crossmember and the antiwrap crossmember to replace the TC skid plate I had on it.
The antiwrap bar follows the angle of the driveshaft and also functions as protection for the rear drive shaft yoke.
I also had to remake the exhaust from the cat back to tuck it up and make room for everything.
All in all I am pleased with how things turned out and it should function well.
Some specs on the pieces:
3/16" plate for the skid plate with 3/4" .120 wall angle cross support
2" .120 wall tube for the truss and antiwrap crossmember
1" .120 wall tube with 1.25" .25 wall angle welded to the bottom of the antiwrap bar
Gusset plates for the truss and antiwrap bar are .25" plate
Bushings are 2" wide and the heim is a 3/4" piece with 9/16" bolts used (from ruffstuff)
The shackle is made from 3/16" plate
Here are some pictures, I used my phone so they're not the best but should show things well enough.

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i would be proud of that, nice work! now make me a skid plate like that.... :)
 
No adjustments to your arm?
 
Any adjustments on his "arm" can be made through the heim joint on the belly pan mount. Other than that he made the traction bar custom to spec. So very little adjustment is needed.
 
'Custom to spec'. An adjustment at the rear top mount would allow you to set the pinion angle. What is your rear pinion angle? Is it optimal? Or is 'custom to spec' just- build it to where it is sitting now? Nice heavy duty build.
 
'Custom to spec'. An adjustment at the rear top mount would allow you to set the pinion angle. What is your rear pinion angle? Is it optimal? Or is 'custom to spec' just- build it to where it is sitting now? Nice heavy duty build.

The reason a pinion angle change would be required is with a new rear axle, change in rear driveshaft design, or change in a drivetrain component.

All of which would make cutting off and rewelding a bushing sleeve a trivial thing.
 
'Custom to spec'. An adjustment at the rear top mount would allow you to set the pinion angle. What is your rear pinion angle? Is it optimal? Or is 'custom to spec' just- build it to where it is sitting now? Nice heavy duty build.

The driveshaft angle was already set correctly long before all this was designed. If you tried to use the bar to set the pinion angle and not use angled shims, then the bar would always be fighting against the springs and would cause undo fatigue. This was never designed to be a kit or be used on other vehicles.

As stated by moparmaniac, I would have to cut and reweld the bushing if I changed the suspension height or a new shackle could be made.

But as I said above, if I change the rear axle or do another suspension setup then I'll do a 4 link setup for the rear.
 
o_O How much weight is in all of that?
 
it all looks real nice. good job. Question: do you get much performance from those shocks being layed down so far? seem to be way too far from the pics. otherwise, nice rig.
 
it all looks real nice. good job. Question: do you get much performance from those shocks being layed down so far? seem to be way too far from the pics. otherwise, nice rig.

Actually, they work great.... The ride really improved once I made the crossover mount and set them up. It was really stiff before.
 
cool. i would have thought it to be too soft. but with a heavy duty shock i bet you can get away with it like that. nice skid by the way. i like how you hid the bolt heads a little so they didnt get trashed.
 
'Custom to spec'. An adjustment at the rear top mount would allow you to set the pinion angle. What is your rear pinion angle? Is it optimal? Or is 'custom to spec' just- build it to where it is sitting now? Nice heavy duty build.

Let's see your traction bar and how it adjusts.
 
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