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worth building a low pinion d44?

Vanimal

NAXJA Forum User
Location
escondido, ca
i picked up a roof rack and a chevy front d44 for real cheap from a guy locally. the axle was basically free. it has flat top knuckles, so i figured it was worth grabbing just for those and the spindles. i do know it's a passenger drop but changing that is no big deal. probably easier than finding a reasonibly priced drivers drop d44 around here, which would likely need to be shortened anyways, so same damn work regardless, and i can do the work just fine.
my question is, do i bother working on this thing? or do i just steal the knuckles and spindles and sell the rest? i gotta imagine the low pinion d44 is still stronger than a d30. there's also the pinion angle, but if i'm welding on the c's, i can adjust that, and i'm not going much higher than 5" of lift anyways.
Whats your opinions?
 
i wouldn't use it, its low pinion for one AND its passenger drop, it'll take way more work than its worth to get that thing under an XJ. how do you figure that shortening axle tubes is the same work as re-tubing a center section to be driver drop? from what i under stand re-tubing a center section is no simple ordeal. at least with shortening the tubes you just cut them to length and weld on the Cs, seems much simpler IMO. unless I'm missing something here and theres a much easier way to make it driver drop. still seems like a lot of work to still have low pinion
 
The strength difference between a trussed high pinion d30 with 297 u-joints and one piece shafts and the low pinion d44 is minimal. This is based on guidance from Jim Allen/Randy Lyman and in Jp Magazine. The LP D44 does provide some advantages: lower gear ratios, cheaper high steer, lots of options on the lug pattern, and cheaper selectable hubs. Disadvantages include: loss of ground clearance, fabrication required, steeper pinion angle, can't use 5 on 4.5 wheels.

If I were going to build a D44 to replace an HP D30, it's only worth it to go high pinion (e.g., '76-'77 F150). I have seen XJs with LP D44 out of '72-'77 broncos, but I would go HP or stay with the D30.
 
i wouldn't use it, its low pinion for one AND its passenger drop, it'll take way more work than its worth to get that thing under an XJ. how do you figure that shortening axle tubes is the same work as re-tubing a center section to be driver drop? from what i under stand re-tubing a center section is no simple ordeal. at least with shortening the tubes you just cut them to length and weld on the Cs, seems much simpler IMO. unless I'm missing something here and theres a much easier way to make it driver drop. still seems like a lot of work to still have low pinion
i have a full machine shop, i can cut down one axle tube and replace the other. not THAT bad, but yea, i'd rather not do it. i found a cherokee front axle for $100, however it could be a chief axle, which i read is 1 5/8" wider than a waggy d44 from what i've read. however, cutting the c's off and shortening it isnt that big of a deal, i can do that. maybe rotating the c's a hair to help with pinion angle as well.
i wonder if the chevy flat top knuckles will fit in the cherokee chief c's?

my original axle build was a d30 with a balistic truss, chromoly ten factory axles, 4.56's and a lockright locker. i have all the parts, however only the gears are installed. i can sell all the parts from that and basically pay for the d44 build since i already have a d44 elocker.
 
Dan, if moving the tubes on a LP Pass 44 is no big deal for you, why not just go find a HP passenger drop chevy 60 at the JY?
 
you guys crack me up......there is nothing wrong with a LP44, been running on for yrs, and been abusing the piss out of it with no major issues.
 
G2's Dana 44 is a LP and they want big $$ for that thing. Dan because you have the know how to build it comes down to.. Is it worth your time building it. Or finding a HP 44 and building that? Either way your gonna put your fab skilz to work man.
 
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i don't think its the strength people are worried about, its the clearance and better driveshaft angle

clearance isn't much different since the housing is the same size, so what if the pinion is on top or bottom i've only hit mine a couple times but it would have hit on a HP too. and the drive shaft angle isn't as bad as everyone always says it is.
 
clearance isn't much different since the housing is the same size, so what if the pinion is on top or bottom i've only hit mine a couple times but it would have hit on a HP too. and the drive shaft angle isn't as bad as everyone always says it is.

I havent had any issues with mine either. I have more issues with clearance in the rear. But that's cause i haven't had the 60 shaved int he rear. I love my LP Dana 44 :)
 
LP44 on 38" creepies.

NBD.

375610_518146235894_226300669_299469_1330689766_n.jpg
 
I've yet to hit my LP44 on anything that the LCA didn't catch first.



If I went thru the trouble of swapping from passenger to driver I'd go with a HP just cause it'd be simple.
 
I have more issues with clearance in the rear. But that's cause i haven't had the 60 shaved int he rear.

don't worry, they are self-shaving housings...

422631_523742780374_226300669_313532_902532866_n.jpg


ive broken many shafts (mostly alloys, a couple stock), and a detroit locker before i had ring and pinion issues.

and when i had ring and pinion issues was when i had both front tires somehow wedged in an undercut.

as for the whole driveshaft and pinion clearance thing, i have never had it stop me from making an obstacle. sure it gets rock rashed, but i just have to remember its there.


-obligatory broken dana44 parts picture-
313532_517421323624_226300669_295883_1335878759_n.jpg
 
Dan, if moving the tubes on a LP Pass 44 is no big deal for you, why not just go find a HP passenger drop chevy 60 at the JY?
Its kind of a big deal because they dont exist! :twak:
LP44 on 38" creepies.

NBD.

375610_518146235894_226300669_299469_1330689766_n.jpg
Doesnt count if you only use one wheel. Similar to a midget, sure it counts, but only as 1/2.
 
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