doing a restoration on a 99 4door xj. noticed some rot through where the wheel wells meet the floor pans so i have pulled the front carpet. along the firewall there is a plastic mat backed with foam, it appears to me to be all one piece and in spots is tucked up under the dash over the tranny hump. so my question to you folks who have been there and done this, is it possible or even worth it to get this out in one piece? not really too excited to pull the dash at this point. my plan ultimately is clean up and seal what rust there is and bedline the foor...maybe get a vinyl mat.
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firewall soudproofing
- Thread starter QUABOAG
- Start date
Alaskan89XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Alaska
Bit hard to recall the area about the plastic mat/foam as you have mentioned. My XJ came to me with the road visible along left side from firewall back towards seat, and was stuffed with a towel, lol!!!! In addition to that there was interior rot spread all about, across the firewall meeting the floorboard, (upwards/downwards/etc.), and then back along tunnel up to the seat.
So, I cut, pulled, chiseled, ground out all the bad stuff, whatever the material. From underneath, I sprayed OSPHO, (Phosphoric acid), liberally through any hole into the interior. (all rust holes/gaps filled from outside underneath, and inside from above). Same from inside to outside. Drilled some holes here and there, and added a sheet of painted steel underneath with the addition of Liquid Nails, silcone, and self-tapping sheet metal screws for a combination of fastening techniques. (No torch/welder available at the time). Went over the new panel, (Had made a 1/2" 'v' bent section on the aft side for drainage), with a 3-M type body panel sound deadener spray. From the inside, placed some glass insulation over the PHOSPO job, (In the void areas), and then used some strategic cross braces of flat steel for additional support for another piece of painted steel sheet. Over that some new carpet foam. Straightened out the carpet, tucked it all away properly, and put down a snow/mud floor mat. Been working out fine for a year now, with no hint of water infiltration, nor damage. Should the glass get wet, there is the drain hole available. The void area was repaired to be mostly water proofed with the materials used, (mentioned above), after insuring the remaining rust had been effectively turned enert.
As far as a restoration is concerned, my method does not qualify as such, but it is fixed.., and I did not have to tear into it as much as you seem to desire for a possible near perfect fix.
So, I cut, pulled, chiseled, ground out all the bad stuff, whatever the material. From underneath, I sprayed OSPHO, (Phosphoric acid), liberally through any hole into the interior. (all rust holes/gaps filled from outside underneath, and inside from above). Same from inside to outside. Drilled some holes here and there, and added a sheet of painted steel underneath with the addition of Liquid Nails, silcone, and self-tapping sheet metal screws for a combination of fastening techniques. (No torch/welder available at the time). Went over the new panel, (Had made a 1/2" 'v' bent section on the aft side for drainage), with a 3-M type body panel sound deadener spray. From the inside, placed some glass insulation over the PHOSPO job, (In the void areas), and then used some strategic cross braces of flat steel for additional support for another piece of painted steel sheet. Over that some new carpet foam. Straightened out the carpet, tucked it all away properly, and put down a snow/mud floor mat. Been working out fine for a year now, with no hint of water infiltration, nor damage. Should the glass get wet, there is the drain hole available. The void area was repaired to be mostly water proofed with the materials used, (mentioned above), after insuring the remaining rust had been effectively turned enert.
As far as a restoration is concerned, my method does not qualify as such, but it is fixed.., and I did not have to tear into it as much as you seem to desire for a possible near perfect fix.
souske
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The land of competition
Unlikely you will get the mat out in one piece. On my 96 it require removal of pretty much everything (dash, pedal box, hvac, wiring) to get it all out.
I would try and fold it up as best as possible, spray, and then fold it back down after the liner has cured. shouldnt be much dirt/scratches/rust that high up anyway
I would try and fold it up as best as possible, spray, and then fold it back down after the liner has cured. shouldnt be much dirt/scratches/rust that high up anyway
dave92cherokee
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lynchburg, TN
I've got the entire interior stripped on my rig putting in sound proofing. What you're talking about requires the removal of EVERYTHING to get that pad out. For your situation I would recommend just lifting it up and doing what you need as the firewall is vertical and will likely only be rusted about 2-3" up if that.
