thisissparta
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- long island
can any1 tell me what reamer i need to fit the bigger tre?
-
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jcr 1ton steering
- Thread starter thisissparta
- Start date
- Location
- Louisville, IL
Call them, they should be able to tell you.
JIM.
JIM.
stroked88
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Carlsbad NM
if i recall correctly its a 1.5" per foot, or 7*
- Location
- WA state
WHy not drill and get a tapered insert?
twodoorXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- northern new jersey
Not everyone can weld, or has access to a welder
blubullett
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Modesto CA
I didn't think you had to weld the tapered inserts in?
Lurch
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Beach, CA
You dont, bore out the knuckle to 7/8" and drop the insert in.
fasteddieyj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hanover, PA
That would be correct. I got mine from Complete Offroad, although all the prices I found when searching were basically the same.
stroked88
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Carlsbad NM
serious offroad (vendor) sells drop in inserts. only problem ive encountered is the one at the pitman coming loose, but hell, i may not have tightened it properly to begin with.
thisissparta
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- long island
never even thought about the inserts but my buddy works at a machine shop and might be able to get the right reamer for me to use thanks for the specs
- Location
- San Diego
- Location
- In the islands
I would definately be afraid of the inserts that were not welded becoming loose and moving around in the steering arms.
IMHO, use of a reamer is the only way to go but many have gone the insert route with no ill effects.
Ronbo
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- San Marcos, CA
Is this the bad idea?
Halfway down the page: http://blackmagicbrakes.com/Jeep_Co-Op.php
"TRE insert to flip the tierod to the top of the knuckle to gain more clearance. It can also be used if you have drilled your knuckles out for a heim joint as long as the hole is no bigger than 3/4 of an inch. The insert will need to be tapped in, and the split in them will ensure that they are tight and do not move. The insert kit comes with a grade 8 flanged lock nut to replace the factory castle nut. This is the same style nut used on newer JK's. The insert is made from cold rolled 1045 steel on a CNC lathe with the correct taper to match and lockup to the tierod just like factory.
This tierod end insert fixes the problem of buying an expensive reamer that will only get used once. All you need to install this TRE insert is a 3/4 drill bit and a 1/2 drill to hold it."
Lurch
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Beach, CA
You wanna qualify that or is that a personal opinion?
- Location
- San Diego
I will qualify yes.
the inserts that are not welded in, but have the split in them are a bad idea because of the softer material that is the knuckle.
the split in the insert will allow some small amount of deflection in the material, over time, the softer knuckle material will start to deform creating slop. that slop will eventually result in a failure.
The only way I would do that is the way Blaine did mine, he uses a thicker insert, drills the hole out to exactly 3/4" countersinks it and presses a n insert (no split) in to about a 5 ton press fit, then tig-welds them on both sides.
the inserts sold on the black magic site are not the same ones that he uses, although you could use those, I would not even think about running them without welding them in.
stroked88
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Carlsbad NM
Like i said, no ill effects aside from me not tightening the TRE at the pitman enough. The split inserts are knurled and seem like they are holding up just fine. Had mine in for a couple thousand miles, one hard trail, and several play sessions on easier trails
Lurch
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Beach, CA
Thanks. That explanation makes sense, the material is rather soft, I wouldn't be as worried about the pitman arm however.
I haven't had a problem with mine yet, but don't have enough mileage on them to really have a valid opinion on the durability of the inserts. I've seen several people post "don't use them" at various times on here, but never got an explanation.
- Location
- San Diego
do yourself a favor, weld around the top of them with a tig or mig welder (preferably tig) and then you won't ever have to worry.
but pitman arms are so cheap, and so easy to find that I wouldn't bother using an insert. partsmike sells a pitman arm with a gm-1 ton taper already .
note, not all "1-ton" TREs are the same. there is no such thing as 1 ton TREs, there are TREs with large size tapers that happened to come on 1 ton trucks. ford, chevy, and GM are all slightly different.
stroked88
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Carlsbad NM
my reason for not using weld in inserts is because the ones i found have a larger OD and i didnt want to take that much material off the knuckle. i wouldnt want to weld the split inserts unless i could spread them for a tight fit before welding. If i have a problem with them, i will probably just sell the dana 30 since i dont have a great alternative and build a 44 for more knuckle material and lock outs.
