Latch Relay Rapid Clicking!

So this is my first time actually POSTING a thread, but ive been scouring threads and forums for years. Heres the situation.... I have an 89 xj, renix, auto, 4.0, etc etc. I threw a rod on the factory motor, so i recently put in a H.O. out of a 96. I have owned a few cherokees, and i know i installed the motor correctly. I used MY intake manifold, installed the CTS, etc etc. Now....when i go to turn on the power, the B+ latch relay makes a rapid clicking for about 3-5 seconds. If i crank it, it cranks, but no fuel and no spark. I know the pump, coil and ICM are good, because ive tested them. I need to know what common relay issue causes rapid clicking, and especialy how this applies to the latch relay. Any help would be awesome.:flamemad:

Which flywheel/flexplate and dizzy did you use?

Did you get the ground strap attached on the back of the head and the 3 ground wires attached to a clean and shiny dipstick stud?

I was REALLY afraid you someone was going to bring that up. Is there a comkpatibilty issue with the flex plate off my 89 The new motor had no flex plate, so i used mine, and i had to pull the pilot bearing before putting the new motor in. The new motor came with a dizzy, but i have the one out of my 89. The renix killer is in good shape, but as for the dipstick stud, what else goes on there other than the neg battery cable?

Good thing you used the 89 flywheel or you'd be pulling the motor out!!

There is a set of 3 small ground wires for almost the entire fuel injection system that are supposed to be attached at the engine dipstick tube stud.

So where are they? Wheres the other end?

Got the one on the back of the head attached? If it's a bear to get on the head stud, attach it to the intake manifold close by instead.

They're come out of a harness near the firewall, not far from the stud.

The renix killer? Torqued down and clean

Ill go check... be back in 3 minutes

no more clicking from relay, getting power to pump, but the (brand new) battery is drained, so ill find someone to jump it when the sun comes up. Thanks a ton

So were the wires not hooked up?

No they werent. Simple oversight.... im not gonna be hard on myself. BTW, do i need to use the dizzy out of my 89?

smithmiester said:

No they werent. Simple oversight.... im not gonna be hard on myself. BTW, do i need to use the dizzy out of my 89?

Click to expand...

I would! I do not think the synch sensor for the HO is compatible with the RENIX system. Cruiser, Old Man, 5-90, or Ecomike will correct me if I'm wrong!

xjtrailrider said:

I would! I do not think the synch sensor for the HO is compatible with the RENIX system. Cruiser, Old Man, 5-90, or Ecomike will correct me if I'm wrong!

Click to expand...

X2^^ the cam sensor has an entirely different plug-- you'd need the one from the '89

Whole different ball of wax. Use the 89 dizzy.

Well, it starts and runs..... thank you. but most of the time i have to give it gas to get it to start, and occasionally it dies. Im pretty sure i know why. One of the bolts on the flange that connects the header to the down pipe is completely stripped, so i have an enormous exhaust leak. If theres not enough back-pressure at idle, could that cause it to die? And before anybody says anything, it has a brand-new IAC, TPS, CPS, MAP, O2 and CTS

How did you connect(or did you connect?) the 96 dizzy?

You need the RENIX dizzy to complete the "loop". Could be your idle issue or a good place to start.

You do know the TPS must be adjusted, right?

Nope... im using the old 89 dizzy. Could it be the massive exhaust leak?

Nope what?

RENIX TPS ADJUSTMENT
Before attempting to adjust your TPS be sure the throttle body has been recently cleaned.
It's especially important that the edges of the throttle butterfly are free of any carbon build-up.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector
of the TPS . The letters are embossed on the connector itself.
Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post.
If you see more than 1 ohm of resistance some modifications to the sensor ground harness will be
necessary. The harness repair must be performed before proceeding.
I can provide an instruction sheet for that if needed.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION:
RENIX manual transmission equipped XJs have a three-wire TPS mounted on the throttle body.
This manual transmission vehicle TPS provides data input to the ECU. The manual transmission
TPS has three wires in the connector and they're clearly embossed with the letters A,B, and C.
Wire "A" is positive.
Wire "B" is ground.
Key ON, measure voltage from "A" positive to "B" ground by back-probing the connectors..
Note the voltage reading--this is your REFERENCE voltage.
Key ON, back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "C". Measure the voltage. This is your
OUTPUT voltage.
Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be seventeen percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For
example: 4.82 volts X .17=.82 volts. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage. If
you can't achieve the correct output voltage replace the TPS and start over.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION:
RENIX automatic transmission equipped XJs have a TPS with two connectors. There is a flat three-
wire connector, same as the manual transmission vehicles have, and it is tested the same as the
manual transmission equipped vehicles--FOR ENGINE MANAGEMENT RELATED ISSUES.
However, the automatic TPS also has a square four-wire connector clearly embossed with the letters
A,B,C, and D. It only uses three wires and provides information to the Transmission Control Module.
Key ON, measure voltage between "A" positive and "D" ground. Note the voltage. This is your
REFERENCE voltage.
Back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "D". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT
voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be eighty-three percent of your REFERENCE voltage.
For example 4.8 volts X .83=3.98 volts. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage.
If you can't, replace the TPS and start over.
So, if you have an automatic equipped XJ your TPS has two sides--one side feeds the ECU, and
the other side feeds the TCU. If you have TRANSMISSION issues check the four-wire
connector side of the TPS. If you have ENGINE issues check the three-wire connector side of
the TPS.
For those with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION--the TPS for the manual transmission XJs is
stupid expensive. You can substitute the automatic transmission TPS which is reasonably priced.
Revised 11-28-2011