Homebrew 4.0 mods can save you mucho dinero

Here are my examples:

1. Homebrew Powerstack FIPK $60, K&N FIPK $240, Saving $180
2. Homebrew 62mm bored TB $11, Accurate Power 62mm TB $200, Saving $189
3. Homebrew MAP adjuster $9, Turbo City MAP adjuster $94, Saving $85
4. Homebrew CTS 4Kohm parallel resistor mod $1, JET fan switch $39, Saving $38
5. Homebrew ported/milled head $440, Accurate Power big valve head $989, Saving $549

Total saving $1041. That much money would buy most of the components needed to build a stroker, so a little savvy and creativity can take you quite a long way.

And we appreciate it - lo $$ mods are mandatory for the cash flow restricted - and seem to be where the ingenuity lies.

Your list also shows what mass production, advertising, liabilty, code compliance testing, and overhead does to pricing.

Then again, would the significant other appreciate molding our own tires in the kitchen stove?

Dr. Dyno (aka Dino),

Picked up a complete 4.0 head (non-ho), valves,springs, rockers, pushrods from the local pull-a-part for $40. Also got the intake and exhaust manifolds for another $35. I plan on doing a home port job, possibly with big valves for my future stroker. Also want to build my own header using the stock exhaust flange and cutting the head pipes at the log portion, using slightly bigger tubing to fashion a step header. I feel the available commercial headers use primary pipes that are much too short for optimal tuning and design their headers for easy installation. Would appreciate your opinion on this. Thanks.

David

Welll if your realy going after power the non ho head isn't your best choice. the ho head has higher intake ports that deffinatly flow better along with a 99 or new intake and tb. As for headers generaly most belive borla is deffinatly one of the best but Mike leach(sp) headers are better for the higher output motors . I don't know anyone who has tried cliffods headers. the biggest problem is cleaering the front drive shaft but for the 2wd crowd dosent have that problem. Here is an other option that I just found but its meant for the YJs but don't see why it couldn't work and I belive its all equal lenght tubes but there only 1 1/2 with a 2 1/2 colector.
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/ES/ES_pics/f9851-1HKR.jpg

Dragracer said:

Dr. Dyno (aka Dino),

Picked up a complete 4.0 head (non-ho), valves,springs, rockers, pushrods from the local pull-a-part for $40. Also got the intake and exhaust manifolds for another $35. I plan on doing a home port job, possibly with big valves for my future stroker. Also want to build my own header using the stock exhaust flange and cutting the head pipes at the log portion, using slightly bigger tubing to fashion a step header. I feel the available commercial headers use primary pipes that are much too short for optimal tuning and design their headers for easy installation. Would appreciate your opinion on this. Thanks.

David

Click to expand...

The non-HO head isn't as good as the HO head but that only means that you can gain more HP from it with a good port job. You can grind material from the rooves of the intake ports to raise them and make them perform similarly to a ported HO head. Match the intake manifold to the ports to get the full benefit.
Agree about the header and it's great that you're creative enough to make your own. I suggest you study the design of the Borla and Mike Leach headers to get an idea of what you need to aim at. I have pics of both of these on my site.

TiRod said:

Then again, would the significant other appreciate molding our own tires in the kitchen stove?

Click to expand...

LOL before I married her, I 'tested' my SO by wet-sanding a bunch of Harley parts (tanks, fenders, misc trim) in her kitchen sink... Candy Brandywine residue EVERYWHERE.

I figured if she let me get by with that, she's a keeper...if not, oh well, next...