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AW4 Transmission Shift Override

Seems like the easiest and maybe the only way to switch between 1-2 on a 97+ with OBDII. $150 isnt bad either for a plug and play unit. Ill let you guys know how it works out when I get it.
 
Some additional info on the product can be found here: Originally required some minor splicing, the latest version as they sell now is nearly plug and play(described in later posts on the thread below).

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1010278&highlight=montana+transmission

The manufacturer is Montana Auto and Fabrication at www.montanafab.com

For some reason they sell it for $6 more dollars on the website.

I have had one for almost two years now. Unfortunately it is still in a box in my garage. Plan is to install it when I get to putting my ARBs in(only had those for 1.5 years).
 
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Wonder why they say 1997 up for OBD2 when it was introduced in 1996? Both of my 96's are OBD2, I cant see why this would not be plug and play on 96 as well.

Looks cool, but I think for 50 more or 50 bucks less, I would rather have the baja/rail shifter. Its not quite as plug and play but is simple enough.

http://radesignsproducts.com/14Shiftcontrollers.aspx

I thought about going with that, but it will throw a code. I live in MA and need to have my rig inspected every year, so Im hoping this will work with out doing that.
 
It won't plug into the 96 and earlier jeeps because they use a different connector shape for the TCU wiring harness plug. But you can build one for the 96 and earlier trivially yourself without ever triggering a CEL.

For 97 and later XJs this is the best TCU override I have seen.
 
I'm pretty sure I need this... Now I have to decide where to mount it :D
Most common place I have seen these installed is the blank plastic area to the right of the gauge cluster. But if you do not use the included cover/panel you could mount it pretty much anywhere.
 
Was wishing for this today, and I wasn't even offroad... Discovered that "1/2" is worthless in ice and snow, kept shifting while I was going down a steep long hill, was afraid it'd make me slip. Had to leave it in 3 and use brakes instead. Stupid trans.
 
Most common place I have seen these installed is the blank plastic area to the right of the gauge cluster. But if you do not use the included cover/panel you could mount it pretty much anywhere.

I've also seen it down by the shifter.. I'm not sure which place would be more accessible / easier to use. I'm probably going to order this in about 2 weeks.
 
the main thing i don't like about it is it only controls 1st and 2nd. if it would control 3rd alos then it would be worth it at least, then you'd have manual control of the 3 main gears used while off-road.

just my .02
 
the main thing i don't like about it is it only controls 1st and 2nd. if it would control 3rd alos then it would be worth it at least, then you'd have manual control of the 3 main gears used while off-road.

just my .02

I rarely go super fast offroad, so I think this will still kick butt for the slow stuff I do. Plus, I like the idea of being able to downshift for engine brakes. The main use for me would be keeping it in first going down hills so it doesn't unlock and make me poop myself.
 
the main thing i don't like about it is it only controls 1st and 2nd. if it would control 3rd alos then it would be worth it at least, then you'd have manual control of the 3 main gears used while off-road.

just my .02

I rarely go super fast offroad, so I think this will still kick butt for the slow stuff I do. Plus, I like the idea of being able to downshift for engine brakes. The main use for me would be keeping it in first going down hills so it doesn't unlock and make me poop myself.
The "D" position, IIRC, is standard operation. So you would have your gear shifter in 3/D depending on which position the switch is in would give you correct gear.
I've also seen it down by the shifter.. I'm not sure which place would be more accessible / easier to use. I'm probably going to order this in about 2 weeks.
As I wrote in my previous post, if you do not use the included panel, you can use it anywhere that the switch will fit.
Do not recall how much room there is, but I think a good place for it would be on the vertical, driver side of the console near the 4WD lever. An add'l TC lockup switch would aid in what you want to do also.
 
The "D" position, IIRC, is standard operation. So you would have your gear shifter in 3/D depending on which position the switch is in would give you correct gear.

As I wrote in my previous post, if you do not use the included panel, you can use it anywhere that the switch will fit.
Do not recall how much room there is, but I think a good place for it would be on the vertical, driver side of the console near the 4WD lever. An add'l TC lockup switch would aid in what you want to do also.

Can you explain how the torque converter works, and how a lockup switch would help? Thanks.
 
What is it about using the old switch setup on the newer models that triggers the CEL? Is it cutting the power to the TCU that it doesn't like, or would it know if you messed with the solenoids on the output side of the TCU?


Edit:

Reason I am wondering is what if you were to modify the basic switch wiring as seen here, which cuts the power to the TCU: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/aw4-tcu-mod-write-up-234510/

Like so:
AW4wiring.png


(Wire colors changed to what I thought I remembered them being on the late model, not sure though since I don't have my wiring diagram in front of me)

Would it know you were messing with the solenoid control manually through some feedback/sensor or would it be happy thinking it is working as intended?
 
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on 97s the TCU is smart enough to know if you disconnect the solenoids from it, and will set a DTC.

on 98-01 it also is smart enough to figure out if the transmission is not in the gear it selected using the solenoids, and will set DTCs for that even if you fool it into thinking it's still connected to the solenoids.
 
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