• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Brakes

B

bonesxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
running springs,ca
!!!1 I have a 89 XJ with 33'' tires just incase that means anything. Just got done doing my brakes, new pads all around, bleed the lines and the brakes still suck. What do I need to do to get my brakes to work good and not have to all most stand on the brake pedal to stop.
 
Dual diagram booster and newer master that matched the booster did wonders on my 89. I believe it was from a 95 XJ. Plenty of write ups on it. You said you did pads all around... Does that mean you did a rear disc swap? If not and still have drums try adjusting them till they just barely drag/touch as you spin the tire.
 
it all depends on what you have now, and how much you want to spend. on an 89 you might have the dreaded bendix anti lock system. if so, get rid of it NOW. in the rear you probably have the dana 35. they came with narrow shoes and wide shoes. find out which you have first. installing new wheel cylinders, and even upgrading to larger ones will help quite a bit. installing new pads and shoes was good, but did you resurface the rotors and drums? this will help by removing the glazed surface for more stopping friction. you have already purchased pads and shoes, but there are many companies with better performance liners. did you flush the old fluid when bleeding the lines? old fluid needs to be completely removed and new fluid topped off. a duel diaphragm booster/master from a 95/96 or a WJ will also be a big upgrade. we need to know more of what you have now.
 
My '96 on 31s with the stock 8.25 rear end's drums sucked.

I swapped in a D44 w/Explorer discs and Grand Cherokee prop valve guts and it now stops great....even on 33s!

Hans
 
The brakes are stock, disks front and drums in the rear "dana 35''. Did not resurface drums or disks but I will now or get new ones. The pads and shoes are from o'raily auto and are the higher priced ones not sure of the brand.Two of you said to upgrade the buster, is that a easy swap I'am not a good brake person.
 
use a WJ booster and M/C to swap to. it will perform as well as the 95/96 setup but it fits better with regards to the washer bottle.
 
from booster to M/C it shouldnt be much different routing. mine was an ABS rig prior to my swap so the plumbing was VERY different going to the prop valve. it was also my first time flaring lines and i dont have any leaks anywhere. its not hard. though it does take practice and patience. starboardM did a good write up on it
 
when i swapped in a 98 booster into my 88 MJ i made extensions using Napa pre flared lines which were only like a couple bucks a piece. they come in different lengths, from 8" to 56". all i had to do was bend them to reach the new master cylinder/prop valve and i was good to go, didn't have to mess with a flaring tool
 
Is the bolt pattern on the booster that goes on to the firewall the same on the 89 and 95 ? The m/c are different but that would just mean redoing the brake lines right?
 
Yes they are the same at the firewall. Be sure you get the aluminum spacer with the booster if you do get the newer setup. And like was said you can get lines with the proper fittings on the ends and simply have to bend them
 
sometimes the pedal assembly doesn't line up correctly with the booster rod. i had to use the pedal assembly from the same 95 i took the booster from. but that was because i had the bedix anti lock stuff which is totally different. if you have a single booster in your 89 now, the 95/96 should bolt right up with no problem. i did a swap for a guy useing an 87 pedal assembly and 95 booster and it worked perfect. the 1/4" aluminum spacer is key. you need it. so make sure you get it. as for brake lines, use the prop valve that is with the 95/96 and its short pre bent lines. that way you know they are correct. then you just need to either get the correct tubing fittings and flare them on yourself, or get adapters as mentioned. the two front lines and the one rear line will all need the correct fittings to attach to the prop valve. its actually pretty easy.
 
i honestly do not know if they are available at an auto parts store. junk yard is your best bet, but it never hurts to ask. i have even heard some guys just putting washers in its place . but i wouldnt want the open area on the firewall.
 
I also had the ABS on mine and I had to drill another hole higher up on the pedal assembly to make the booster rod line up. Not need the pedal assembly but modification was necessary.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

X
My brakes are crap
Replies
12
Views
3K
xjklmnop69
X
T
Brake bleeding: vacuum/pressure or old school?
Replies
10
Views
707
lawsoncl
L
1
Still got shi$$y brakes... lol
Replies
0
Views
204
1-tonxj
1
O
Brake failure light randomly coming on
Replies
4
Views
2K
RCP Phx
R
1
Can't get good brakes on my 1ton xj
Replies
2
Views
4K
1-tonxj
1
Back
Top