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Easiest Way to Install New Track Bar and LCA's (IRO)

B

bzauche

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Dahlonega, GA
Hey all,

My new IRO Double Shear track bar, as well as new IRO fixed length LCA's, got shipped today, so that brings me here. What is the easiest/most effective way to go about installing these parts? Do I need to have the XJ jacked up? I know some people have installed their track bars with the Jeep still on the ground, but I didn't know if it was different for the IRO one because it has the extra bracket. What about the LCA's? Can I just take off the old stock ones and pop in the new ones?

Thanks for the help!
 
If you do the LCA's one at a time it will be easy. I usually jack up the jeep and put it on jack stands that way I can let the axle droop so I can maneuver the arms into place. Maybe it's just mine but everytime I pull those bolts out they never want to just slip back in. As far as the trackbar I'm not sure if the extra bracket makes any difference but I've always put all the weight on the suspension then installed the trackbar.
 
It's virtually a no brainer... Track bar is super simple, you remove the stock mount and reinstall the new mount. You might have to drill out your axle siDe bolt hole to fit their bigger size bolt. You also need to make sure your jeep is centered correctly using a measuring tape. It will take some trial and error but it's easy, just get someone to turn your keys forward and with it disconnected have them turn the steering wheel left of right and it will shift the body one way or the other. When it is where you want it your adjust your track bar to line up with those holes. As for the control arms, they are a PITA , But do it one at a time and you'll be fine
 
bzauche said:
Awesome. Thanks!

Will the new LCA's affect anything negatively like angles, etc...?
Click to expand...
As long as you ordered the correct ones for your lift height everything should be fine. Just install them and check everything to make sure all is within spec and get an alignment done!
 
take one of your current lowers off and see if the length is different than your new ones (eye to eye). if they are different, it may be difficult to do one at a time, as the other side will be trying to resist you changing the relationship of the pinion, even if its only a couple of inches. but 1 at a time, or both off/both on should be doable, either way.

when i did mine, i found it was easier to have someone with a giant 2x4 putting leverage on the axle to move it where you needed it to go. that thing is a heavy SOB when your lying on your back. i had the tires off, diff on a jack.

take the track bar off, put it in the air. do the arms, put it back under its own weight, install the new track bar. its easier to center that way.
 
I just disconect the track bar and shocks dropp it all the way out pull all arms and put them on one by one starting with the bottoms but I got rk long arms and there simple that way
 
Speedbump96 said:
I just disconect the track bar and shocks dropp it all the way out pull all arms and put them on one by one starting with the bottoms but I got rk long arms and there simple that way
Click to expand...

It's weird... I disconnect my shocks and I try to test the droop of my jeep and I only gain maybe an inch. There is something restricting my down travel :-/.. I have 4 up 4 down but I feel my droop should be more when my shocks are disconnected
 
do it all wheels on, on the ground. one thing at a time like everyone else said. to line up the new trackbar, have a buddy turn the steering wheel to center the axle to the bolt.
 
The only things that will restrict your travel are your track bar, your shocks, and your control arms. The lowers will bind and halt any more downtravel. If you take the lowers out, your uppers will swing down and the axle is free to fall until your brake lines snap.

I try and pride myself in doing things the smart/fast way. Doing it all on a lift was DEFINITELY a terrible idea. The trackbar is a breeze I've done plenty of those, but getting my upper control arms out was hard, and putting the new ones in was impossible. I essentially did uppers and lowers at the same time though (drop brackets with uppers). The axle swung in towards the body and was a total PITA to get pushed back towards the front so I could squeeze the uppers back in.

Do it on the ground.... With only a new trackbar and fixed lowers, it shouldn't take long at all.
 
DanMan2k06 said:
The only things that will restrict your travel are your track bar, your shocks, and your control arms. The lowers will bind and halt any more downtravel. If you take the lowers out, your uppers will swing down and the axle is free to fall until your brake lines snap.

I try and pride myself in doing things the smart/fast way. Doing it all on a lift was DEFINITELY a terrible idea. The trackbar is a breeze I've done plenty of those, but getting my upper control arms out was hard, and putting the new ones in was impossible. I essentially did uppers and lowers at the same time though (drop brackets with uppers). The axle swung in towards the body and was a total PITA to get pushed back towards the front so I could squeeze the uppers back in.

Do it on the ground.... With only a new trackbar and fixed lowers, it shouldn't take long at all.
Click to expand...
steering will restrict travel too.

i replaced the bushings in my uppers and lowers on the ground... was relatively easy with a helper and a 2x4.
 
Thanks for the help so far guys. So it looks like wheels on the ground for everything? I can probably rent jack stands from Autozone if I need to...
 
Your gonna need a 13/16" socket for those LCA bolts and a 135 ft lb torque wrench, then I torqued the track bar down the upper and lower to 74ft lbs (upper called for 62 thou) for the track bar you'll need a 17mm and 19mm, good luck !!! If you lived nearby I'd offer my garage and help but ga and CA is more than a few miles away :)
 
All wheels on the ground, one at a time. For the trackbar (don't know why others havent mentioned), adjusting it for perfect axle center is not correct for the correct suspension geometry. Here's what i do:

Make sure wheels are relatively straight.

Disconnect old rusty track bar.

Attach new one on axle side.

push the Jeep up and down in the front so the suspension levels itself out.

Adjust and attach new track bar. Adjust steering wheel if need be and do/get an alignement.
 
with the old track bar off, you can actually use the steering to center the axle.

as you move it left and right, youll push the body left and right as well. you want to do small increments, but you if someone is willing to help, you can measure while they hold the wheel, and then bolt it in when you get it centered. id adjust the drag and tie rod again, once the track bar is in.
 
I have changed many LCAs and LCAs, by myself.
Leave the wheels on the ground and use a come-a-long to pull the axle forward or rearward, as needed, to line the arms up.
With rust-free hardware, it only takes a few minutes to change each arm.

You can also use the come-a-long to align the track bar but having someone turn the steering wheel is much faster and easier.
 
If I am going to get it aligned right after installing the track bar and LCA's, how much do I need to worry about this whole axle centering stuff? I mean I'm obviously not going to drive it around with the axle more than half an inch off center or however close I can get it...
 
Just installed my IRO double shear and bracket in a parking lot with 30mph winds and hail... (not by choice.. the mount broke) It was pretty simple, no jacking of the vehicle needed. Of coarse, I was not able to get the alignment perfect, as I didn't want to be laying in gravel and hail any longer than I needed to be. I am currently running with my steering wheel at about 2-o'clock driving straight, and shes doing fine.

I fought most with the axle side bolt, as it seized to the bushing a bit. The Track bar mount came right out, no problems; two nuts and two bolts. The bolts backed out of welded in place nuts, and the nuts came off of fixed in place studs. For once, a vehicle manufacturer thought of the repair man!

Its a nice set up. Hope you enjoy, and your install goes smooth!
 
Just thought of something more to add here... Are you running any lift?

I am at about 1.75" lift with poly spacers, and this mount is hitting my coil bucket on some nasty bumps here in town. I purchased the IRO that is rated for 3" to 7" of lift (I will lift for real some day!) The mount drops quite a bit lower than the stock one... Just a heads up.
 
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