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Front Dana 44 tube cut
- Thread starter Ramairuss
- Start date
stroked88
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Carlsbad NM
do a search on the manufacturers axle shaft length for the 76 lengths, find the tj rubicon axle lengths, subtract the rubicon length from the 76 lengths and thats how much you should cut off the tube
Frank Z
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
maddogs1965
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Truckee Ca,
YOU WILL LOVE THIS FRONT END SET UP!!!
I'm running Dutchman chromos and CTM's in the front with a ARB and 4:88's on 35's with no :explosion
The only problem i have had is i had to add allot of bump stops to the center of the coil spring to limit the articulation, the front end was stuffing up so much that with the H.P. 44, the drive line was coming up and starting to eat or rub on the upper control arm...
This pic is in Escalator in Moab
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I'm running Dutchman chromos and CTM's in the front with a ARB and 4:88's on 35's with no :explosion
The only problem i have had is i had to add allot of bump stops to the center of the coil spring to limit the articulation, the front end was stuffing up so much that with the H.P. 44, the drive line was coming up and starting to eat or rub on the upper control arm...
This pic is in Escalator in Moab
jeeperjohn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Temecula, CA
I had that issue with my axle so I made a bracket for the axle side of the upper control arm to make the arm mount about 2" higher than it was. That took care of the driveshaft to upper control arm contact.
Did you build your front axle? What outers are you using?
YOU WILL LOVE THIS FRONT END SET UP!!!
I'm running Dutchman chromos and CTM's in the front with a ARB and 4:88's on 35's with no :explosion
The only problem i have had is i had to add allot of bump stops to the center of the coil spring to limit the articulation, the front end was stuffing up so much that with the H.P. 44, the drive line was coming up and starting to eat or rub on the upper control arm...
This pic is in Escalator in Moab
Frank Z
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
FWIW,
I recently added Chevy Flat-Tops and Ford spindles so I could run 5 on 5.5 wheels. My rear shafts (AlloyUSA) have a dual bolt pattern so the front and rear match.
And I now have manual lock-outs...wOOT!!!
I recently added Chevy Flat-Tops and Ford spindles so I could run 5 on 5.5 wheels. My rear shafts (AlloyUSA) have a dual bolt pattern so the front and rear match.
And I now have manual lock-outs...wOOT!!!
Ok, I found '76 ford axle shaft lengths but I cannot find TJ rubi shaft lengths. Bueller, Bueller, Bueller...
Frank Z
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
If you don't already have this bookmarked, you should.
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html
maddogs1965
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Truckee Ca,
I did build the front end.The inners are Dutchman chromo's, and i am using a stock Ford outer stub shaft. My theory is i would rather have a outer stub brake before the inner shaft, or a ring and pinion. I have a extra set of CTM's and a extra stock stub shaft under the passenger rear seat, but so far i have been lucky and have not had to use either one in 3 years of some good wheeling. But then again, i think the Warn hubs will brake before anything!
- Location
- San Bruno, CA.
Yeah, this is a great link! I got lot of infor from it but there's no Rubicon information. At least that I have found.
xjbubba
NAXJA Member # 1524
- Location
- santa barbara, ca
Thought I'd bring up the fact that the Rubicon D44 front axle "C's" are different than older D44 "C's". Not sure what affect, if any, the difference in the "C's" have on the inner axle lengths, but you may want to consider that before you cut your tubes. I believe the axle u-joint has to properly align with the steering axis, which may vary between the two axles.:eyes:
