TPS not shifting right

I assume it's the TPS. I've got a 97 auto, 231 and it doesn't seem to be shifting at the proper time. Especially around 30-35 MPH it's often up in the 2k-2700 RPMS and sometimes wont shift until I let off the gas a little bit.

Shifting just doesn't seem as smooth as the other autos that I've owned. So, is there a way to adjust the TPS to see if it corrects itself, or do I just invest in a new TPS?

UpCountry suspension with 235 tires... nothing major done to it to cause extra weight for it to have issues shifting. Being driven on a flat surface when the issue happens, and it's on a regular basis.

91-01 TPS is not adjustable, just replace it. Is the Trans fluid new or old? TPS is a wear part, they wear out, and they hate water.

There have been many threads about shifting problems. First thing is make sure the fluid is at the proper level. Could be TPS. There is no adjustment on the newer xj's.

Ya, didn't think it was adjustable from what I've read, just wasn't sure if there was a way to "fix" it or if it's just one of those things that needs replaced when going bad.

I'll check the fluid levels.

Would this cause a loss of fuel mileage as well due to not shifting right? I've replaced my upstream O2, new hi-flow cat and muffler, still need to do the downstream O2.

Yes a bad TPS causing shift hunting can hurt mileage for sure.

Check that fluid level is right and the color is still pink, and not brown-burnt first. Bad TPS (worn) is common cause for shift hunting, shift at wrong rpms...., and idle speed problems.

Obviously check what's been listed above, but you might also check / adjust the throttle cable as well..

The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad

You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!

• Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
• High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
• Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
• Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted acordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
• Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the deined acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.

:repair:

same issues for me but mine wasnt shifting till like 4k, i changed mine after it died going down a hill at idle, now it shifts perfect

wow, look at all the specific-to-'97 TPS issues popping up on the various forums this week ; now that I fought with mine and relegated it to garage ornament for a few months to unwind my brain that was in absolute knots from chasing the wiring harness according to the factory diagrams and thinking I could figure out from that, what wires should have voltage what wires should be grounded and such; lemme put it this way; I discovered the hard way going thru mine why the yellow multimeters say "FLUKE" on them because that's the only way I can explain some of the readings that I was gettin;
--I put a known good used TPS on early on; I tried 2 other computers, I swapped engine wiring harnesses twice (no a 98 isn't the same; remember the 2 instances where "almost" counts)
--I also removed a remote start with a mind of its own installed by a PO; I dont miss gettin up at 3AM from a dead sleep to disarm it and shut my Jeep off but it wasn't the issue with the TPS. I still dont miss it.
--I also went down the "clockspring" path
--I also did a few other things along the way that while I knew wouldnt "fix" it going in but knew it needed anyway due to age and miles; I removed teh injectors and sent them to a BOSCH authorized F.I. place, for a flush, testing, cleaning, and new screens/O rings, and I removed the exhaust manifold (factory installed header) and welded up all the cracks.
Once I put a NEW TPS on, everything was fine.

mine started shifting at redline, regardless how "soft" I hit the gas pedal, would not idle below 1200 all of a sudden, and a whole host of other problems. When I disconnected it and got NO change (for better OR for worse) and I put a known good used one on also no change, I started digging. I dug almost to China, but no answers; new TPS solved the problem. STANDARD brand from Rock Auto; 40-some $$$

My issues started about 40 hours after a session with a diesel fired steam cleaner, to power wash and degrease the engine compartment.. was fine later the same day; as well as next day; but the morning of the 2nd day after the power wash job all He11 broke loose. and after all that I see I missed several spots on the cleaning process... screw it. it can stay dirty after all that mess.

Most likely is the Throttle Valve Cable adjustment.

old_man said:

Most likely is the Throttle Valve Cable adjustment.

Click to expand...

What makes you say that?

I have tried both extreme settings on my 87 and 89 TVCs, and I never can tell the difference. But I have had a bad TPS cause all sorts of shifting issues on both, and with 2 different transmissions on the 87.

Are 91-01s less susceptible to TPS issues on AW4 shift points?

Note from DJ have a look at these two posts;

Transmission line pressure cable (kickdown cable) adjustment
On 1987-2011 jeep Cherokee [XJ]
By Peter Jackson from allpar repairs
http://www.allpar.com/SUVs/jeep/cherokee-transmission.html

And this one
Tranny Cable adjustment at throttle body
91 XJ 4.0/AW4/np242/etc.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=382127&postcount=3

volaredon said:

wow, look at all the specific-to-'97 TPS issues popping up on the various forums this week ; now that I fought with mine and relegated it to garage ornament for a few months to unwind my brain that was in absolute knots from chasing the wiring harness according to the factory diagrams and thinking I could figure out from that, what wires should have voltage what wires should be grounded and such; lemme put it this way; I discovered the hard way going thru mine why the yellow multimeters say "FLUKE" on them because that's the only way I can explain some of the readings that I was gettin;
--I put a known good used TPS on early on; I tried 2 other computers, I swapped engine wiring harnesses twice (no a 98 isn't the same; remember the 2 instances where "almost" counts)
--I also removed a remote start with a mind of its own installed by a PO; I dont miss gettin up at 3AM from a dead sleep to disarm it and shut my Jeep off but it wasn't the issue with the TPS. I still dont miss it.
--I also went down the "clockspring" path
--I also did a few other things along the way that while I knew wouldnt "fix" it going in but knew it needed anyway due to age and miles; I removed teh injectors and sent them to a BOSCH authorized F.I. place, for a flush, testing, cleaning, and new screens/O rings, and I removed the exhaust manifold (factory installed header) and welded up all the cracks.
Once I put a NEW TPS on, everything was fine.

mine started shifting at redline, regardless how "soft" I hit the gas pedal, would not idle below 1200 all of a sudden, and a whole host of other problems. When I disconnected it and got NO change (for better OR for worse) and I put a known good used one on also no change, I started digging. I dug almost to China, but no answers; new TPS solved the problem. STANDARD brand from Rock Auto; 40-some $$$

My issues started about 40 hours after a session with a diesel fired steam cleaner, to power wash and degrease the engine compartment.. was fine later the same day; as well as next day; but the morning of the 2nd day after the power wash job all He11 broke loose. and after all that I see I missed several spots on the cleaning process... screw it. it can stay dirty after all that mess.

Click to expand...

Your issue was greatly complicated by your refusal to test the sensors themselves.

IMO, if you own a Jeep, you should own a DMM and an analog ohmmeter. They are normally cheaper than the components you will be testing, and being able to verify that a part is working/failed, is much less frustrating (and potentially much cheaper) than guessing.

no, I didn't "refuse" to test the sensors; I just did it in a different way. I substituted what I THOUGHT was a known good TPS. and when it changed nothing, I thought that meant the original one was also fine. I did also try a new crank sensor with no change, so I returned it for a refund.
and, given the path that the various voltage and ohm meter readings that I was getting on my digital FLUKE meter, as well as what my SNAP ON 2500 scanner was telling me, analysis of the results took me in a different direction away from the sensors.... taking what I was given and doing what I "thought" was right, as a result of which.... I was grasping at straws and willing to try anything.

Now, had I gotten the readings that I EXPECTED to get with the FLUKE,, I would have concentrated more on the sensors themselves.... the readings that I was getting led me to (mistakenly) believe my problem laid elsewhere.

hubs97xj said:

Your issue was greatly complicated by your refusal to test the sensors themselves.

IMO, if you own a Jeep, you should own a DMM and an analog ohmmeter. They are normally cheaper than the components you will be testing, and being able to verify that a part is working/failed, is much less frustrating (and potentially much cheaper) than guessing.

Click to expand...

x2

volaredon said:

no, I didn't "refuse" to test the sensors; I just did it in a different way. I substituted what I THOUGHT was a known good TPS. and when it changed nothing, I thought that meant the original one was also fine. I did also try a new crank sensor with no change, so I returned it for a refund.
and, given the path that the various voltage and ohm meter readings that I was getting on my digital FLUKE meter, as well as what my SNAP ON 2500 scanner was telling me, analysis of the results took me in a different direction away from the sensors.... taking what I was given and doing what I "thought" was right, as a result of which.... I was grasping at straws and willing to try anything.

Now, had I gotten the readings that I EXPECTED to get with the FLUKE,, I would have concentrated more on the sensors themselves.... the readings that I was getting led me to (mistakenly) believe my problem laid elsewhere.

Click to expand...

many people have gotten bad TPS when they thought the sensor was good.
bad sensor replacing bad sensor = same problem

you need to get the values that the TPS is supposed to be putting out, test the TPS while the ignition key is on. otherwise you will keep grasping at straws