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Axle change what should I put in my junk?

I

Icemans

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ridgefield, Washington
We guy's it’s that time of year again. Yes that's correct tax time. I have been saving for a while and now with getting my tax return I should be able to make some axle changes. I have been looking into just putting ARB's, Gears, and shafts into my Dana 30 and 29spl 8.25. Looking at it I will be into my current axles for just over $3100.00.

I have an option of buying a set of axles but they are 5x5.5 and my Trailreadys are 5x4.5 so they won’t fit, not only because of the bolt pattern but the hub is too large to fit through my wheel. I was looking at this because I could pick both his axles up for $3000.00 or so and have a Dana 44hp up front.

I have also looked into getting a set of G2 axles or Dynatrac axles. Dynatrac's are out of my price range although I would really like a set of Pro Rock 44's. The G2 axles are okay to say the least. They are a low pinion Rubicon Dana 44 and are not the strongest Dana 44 on the market due to axle tubes and other misc reasons. Some people say they are just as strong as a Dana 30 with a little work. I could order these with some axle brackets and a truss then it would be okay.

The last but not least I could have an axle built but I would most likely only be able to do one or the other. I'm fine with keeping my 8.25 with chromo shafts but I wouldn't be able to do that if I built a front axle.
So post up tell me what you would do. I'm currently running 33x12.50 but I am buying 35x12.50 next month. I will be putting a doubler or 4sp atlas in the xj in the next year or so. I wheel my junk hard but I am more of a finesse wheeler then a hammer down until I make it wheeler. I'm interested in your opinions.
 
Go bigger Ford 9" rear and Dand 44 up front. I know your a long time wheeler, and once you kill your Cherokee you will still have these axels to transfer over to another Cherokee. Another reason I did this there great axels to swap into an LJ.
 
Just my opinion:
1. Don't put 35's under a cherokee without a cage or similar support.
2. There is a LONG list of items that need to be beefed up on the frame/lack there of before stepping up to 35's.
3. Tax return money can be spent in much wiser ways :lecture:

Just my opion.

Michael
 
2xtreme said:
Just my opinion:
1. Don't put 35's under a cherokee without a cage or similar support.
2. There is a LONG list of items that need to be beefed up on the frame/lack there of before stepping up to 35's.
3. Tax return money can be spent in much wiser ways :lecture:

Just my opion.

Michael
Click to expand...

All this is already done. I have frame stiffeners, and a cage is going in very soon. Not that I want to change my topic but how do you propose I spend some of my tax return???
 
crazymoose1990 said:
Go bigger Ford 9" rear and Dand 44 up front. I know your a long time wheeler, and once you kill your Cherokee you will still have these axels to transfer over to another Cherokee. Another reason I did this there great axels to swap into an LJ.
Click to expand...

Both good options if I were going to change the rear I think I'm going to change it to a Dana 44 or a Ford 8.8. Just to keep some of my ground clearance that I’m gaining by going to 35's. I know that 35's are not required for things we do in the PNW. I can go anywhere I want with 33's that someone can go with 35's. I've done almost everything I want to do at browns camp on 33's open and open (i.e. Air Plane, Water Fall, Saddle Up) so these mods are more for my snow expeditions. This is also to prepare for Moab because I will need lockers there. Thanks for the info keep it coming.
 
Maybe I need a little more background?

Are you building the axles yourself or having them done? IF you bought a used axle what would you do and what would you have done?
Why are you moving up to 35's from 33's? Due to the snow wheeling?

I think it is a better idea to spend tax return money on appreciating investments rather than depreciating investments. Again, just my opinion.

Personally I like the 9" for a build yourself axle. Shave it.

If you are considering spending 3K on axles I would put a nice D44 up front as a minimum!

Michael
 
2xtreme said:
If you are considering spending 3K on axles I would put a nice D44 up front as a minimum!
Click to expand...

In my opinion, a nice D44 front should cost more than 3k... :lecture:
 
since this whole thing is based off of opinion.. Here's mine..

Keep the 8.25, Lunchbox lock it with alloy shafts.

Ditch the D30.. Go HP44 with an ARB
 
I like Scott's idea too. I'll likely never get rid of my new 8.25 since its got a full case locker and hd diff cover. Ittl get chromos and that's about it. The 30 however, will eventually get replaced with something bigger and more than likely a 44 will be the choice.
 
I like my Ford 9" as much as my Dana 44 pleanty strong and I have more clearance than a Dana 60 with the Currie high pinion center section. Also agree a well build high pinion 44 cost more that 3 grand, but if done properly you shoudnt be able to break it or bend it, unless your going to jump sand dunes.
 
If I were to do it again I would do the Pro rock 44 front with dana 44 knuckles instead of dana 30 knuckles. The stock Ford 44 doesn't have great clearance with 35s.
 
Last edited:
I would build what you have so you can keep your wheels.

RCVs, an ARB, and a truss out front.

Alloys, a Detroit, and a truss out back.

That would be a very stout setup for 35s.
 
2xtreme said:
Maybe I need a little more background?

Are you building the axles yourself or having them done? IF you bought a used axle what would you do and what would you have done?
Why are you moving up to 35's from 33's? Due to the snow wheeling?

I think it is a better idea to spend tax return money on appreciating investments rather than depreciating investments. Again, just my opinion.

Personally I like the 9" for a build yourself axle. Shave it.

If you are considering spending 3K on axles I would put a nice D44 up front as a minimum!

Michael
Click to expand...

Sorry I didn't put enough back ground in my post. I can build just about anything. I have done everything from custom axles for drag cars to complete custom sand rails. That was all when I was in high school and just out of high school. I prefer to have them built because I have the money to have it done and prefer to spend the time with kids.

As for the 35's over 33's the 35's have more side wall to flex for the snow. I think they make my rig look better than it does with 33's. I also run with rigs that have 40's up in the snow so I’m the small guy. I feel that 35's are a better fit for my application. Just my opinion.

I will leave the investments alone because I agree that is a better way to spend your money. I like the 9" it's a great axle and the aftermarket is huge. It's not out of the question just on the list of choices. I don't mind spending the money on a Dana 44 front. The 44 that I have the option to buy is a Ford HP that has been cut down to Waggy width. The only problem is my Trailready's won’t fit over the hub. So I will have to sell those and buy new wheels. Sorry about by rant just trying to fill everyone in.
 
Something else that I haven't said is that I don't really want anything but a selectable locker. In my experince I have ran into situations were not being locked at all is better then being lock. I also use this rig as my sales car for work. So I don't want to be burning up tires once a year. Thanks for all the input. Eric we have talked about your axles and your the reason why I have to post this tread.
 
Icemans said:
Sorry I didn't put enough back ground in my post. I can build just about anything. I have done everything from custom axles for drag cars to complete custom sand rails. That was all when I was in high school and just out of high school. I prefer to have them built because I have the money to have it done and prefer to spend the time with kids.

As for the 35's over 33's the 35's have more side wall to flex for the snow. I think they make my rig look better than it does with 33's. I also run with rigs that have 40's up in the snow so I’m the small guy. I feel that 35's are a better fit for my application. Just my opinion.

I will leave the investments alone because I agree that is a better way to spend your money. I like the 9" it's a great axle and the aftermarket is huge. It's not out of the question just on the list of choices. I don't mind spending the money on a Dana 44 front. The 44 that I have the option to buy is a Ford HP that has been cut down to Waggy width. The only problem is my Trailready's won’t fit over the hub. So I will have to sell those and buy new wheels. Sorry about by rant just trying to fill everyone in.
Click to expand...

Much better understanding, thanks.

1. I wasn't suggesting that 3K would build a D44 front, just that this is where I would spend my money.

2. IF you feel comfortable with the 8.25 (it should be plenty strong from what you have said) I would leave it and use it with what ever locker you want. IF you plan on Cromo's, ARB, Disks, etc to make it strong enough I think you might be better off spending that same money on a 9" shaved and sell the 8.25. I think for similar money you would be way ahead on strength (assuming you don't need to change width for your application).

3. I wouldn't trust a D30 with 35's without spending a fortune. I would rather put this money into a D44 of your choice.

4. I agree with the ARB's

5. The largest issues with these decisions I believe has more to do with the lay out of large sums of money and keeping everything working in the mean time (building a front seperate from a rear) (different width axles, different bolt patterns, etc, etc).

Again, just my opinion ;)

Michael
 
2xtreme said:
Much better understanding, thanks.

1. I wasn't suggesting that 3K would build a D44 front, just that this is where I would spend my money.

2. IF you feel comfortable with the 8.25 (it should be plenty strong from what you have said) I would leave it and use it with what ever locker you want. IF you plan on Cromo's, ARB, Disks, etc to make it strong enough I think you might be better off spending that same money on a 9" shaved and sell the 8.25. I think for similar money you would be way ahead on strength (assuming you don't need to change width for your application).

3. I wouldn't trust a D30 with 35's without spending a fortune. I would rather put this money into a D44 of your choice.

4. I agree with the ARB's

5. The largest issues with these decisions I believe has more to do with the lay out of large sums of money and keeping everything working in the mean time (building a front seperate from a rear) (different width axles, different bolt patterns, etc, etc).

Again, just my opinion ;)

Michael
Click to expand...

Thanks Michael I really appreciate your advise I will take it to heart.
 
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