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231 SYE (i know i know use the search)

davidson99XJ

davidson99XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Greensburg IN
i know there are threads and ive seen many. but alot of them have people going back and forth with sye and h&t. well i dont want a h&t. i want a actual sye with the new tail shaft and all the goodies. but i dont know which one to get. ive looked a few and just wanted feedback on what you though was the best and be able to run a front drive shaft out of a XJ/ZJ. and are those the only jeeps the drive shafts work out of? something else im not sure of. Plan on buyin it friday. but maybe before. i need it pretty bad.

Tyler
 
davidson99XJ said:
i know there are threads and ive seen many. but alot of them have people going back and forth with sye and h&t. well i dont want a h&t. i want a actual sye with the new tail shaft and all the goodies. but i dont know which one to get. ive looked a few and just wanted feedback on what you though was the best and be able to run a front drive shaft out of a XJ/ZJ. and are those the only jeeps the drive shafts work out of? something else im not sure of. Plan on buyin it friday. but maybe before. i need it pretty bad.

Tyler
Click to expand...


I have the Advance adapters one. They are all about the same price.
 
I run the Rugged Ridge one, front shaft in the rear. The parts look IDENTICAL to the Advanced Afapters unit. Cost me $165 shipped plus $22 for the shaft from the yard.
 
Yeah but the kbb conversion is like 40 bucks more. What makes it so much better. And which one would I need? It coukd be even more then 40 bucks more. I have no problem paying extra $ for good parts but not when people are telling me they are all the same
 
davidson99XJ said:
Yeah but the kbb conversion is like 40 bucks more. What makes it so much better. And which one would I need? It coukd be even more then 40 bucks more. I have no problem paying extra $ for good parts but not when people are telling me they are all the same
Click to expand...

Either SYE will work. the super short one will let you run a longer shaft which will help if you are really tall but since your jeep is't that tall I don't see the need.
I got mine for right at $200 but if you shop around you can probably find one cheaper.
 
the JB stood out to me because of being made in USA, and the time they took to atleast writeout how its made to specs and not reverse engineered. ive seen in the vendor section before, a sale on new rugged ridge SYE and in the sales picture the bearings already have surface rust on them. looking identical and haveing the same quality componets are two different things. another thing to think about is while the tcase is apart throw in a 2low kit. its not nessary but i use mine alot more than i thought i would.


FYI: the short, high angled yoke is on the HD unit, not just they super short sye.
 
While they are all pretty identical the AA see has a much thicker housing. It was around 200 when I bought mine. Most of the eBay and RR are around 150. I always go for the beefier part. It came with all the stuff to do it. The instructions were straight forward and it's actually a very simple install once you nut up and bust the case open. Go with AA or jb conversions.
 
I got the PORC one on sale for $160/shipped. Works great for me.
The comment above about the AA having a thicker housing is interesting. I'd like to see some info to back that up.
 
Porch951 said:
I got the PORC one on sale for $160/shipped. Works great for me.
The comment above about the AA having a thicker housing is interesting. I'd like to see some info to back that up.
Click to expand...

I just installed the PORC this past weekend. Sucker went in easily and its pretty nice piece. Sign up for their newsletter before ordering it and they send a you a new customer discount of like 5%.
 
thanks for the info....ive heard alot more about the AA. ive heard that name more then others and its never been bad.
 
x3 (or 4) on the AA. I bought mine and installed it about a month ago using a rebuilt XJ 4.0L/AW4/231 front driveshaft from the pullapart. Went in without a hitch and seems to be working great after a 2k+ mile road trip. I did have a bit of a leak from the speedo sensor but it turns out I cut the o-ring when I put it back in. Whatever one you go with, make sure you have a really good set of snap ring pliers.
 
yeah i have a good set. bought a MAC set last year when we kept breaking cheap ones changing out the tounge on bass boat trailer
 
I'll second the snap ring pliers comment above. Without them, you absolutely cannot get that huge snap ring out (well you might, but with bloodied fingers/ego). They'll bend your needle noses, bend the tips of cheap ones, it's just not worth the hassle. Spend $50 on some quality ones, or find someone who will lend you a pair.

Another thing I couldn't really find a clear answer too when I was researching them about a year ago - the transfer case DOES NOT have to come out. Lots of people said how easy it was blah blah, but no one really gave a cut and dry answer. Unless you have another reason to do so, it's foolish and a waste of time. Do it on the Jeep.
 
is it really easyer to do it laying on your back? i guess either way your laying on your back on a cold cement floor though.
 
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