What degree taper for the reamer is needed to use FSJ Waggy steering parts?

After all my hair pulling and chin rubbing, I've decided to use Waggy steering parts for my cross-over steering project. Now I need to know what taper is needed to ream out the knuckles and pitman arm. I hope someone knows, because I'm getting no info from the parts stores.

Thanks again guys!

this could be tricky........ I know the two standards are what we call a 1:8 or a 1:6 Taper meaning for 6 or 8 inches it will open up 1 inch over the distance..... (1:8 = 7.1527degrees included angle and 1:6 = 9.5273 degrees included angle)

Don't know if this helps at all..... I work in the cutting tool business and these are standard TRE reamer angles......

It's late and i dont know if this made any sense

Troy,

The XJ/WJ stuff is 1 1/2" per foot of tapper.

This is the one I have:

http://www.goodson.com/g5-bin/clien...1;search_button=Search;INVOICE_ID=&item=P5645

Not sure it will work for waggy steering.


mark
orgs mfg

When I used the Chevy TREs, my waggy knuckles did not have to be reamed, meaning they are the same taper as the chevys. So, if you use the reamer suggested in the article on your previous post, you'll be good to go.

I think most all tapers are 1-1/2"per/ft taper it 's just the depth that's is different (major and minor diameters)

1.5" per foot is the correct taper.

Why not use Chevrolet ends, weld in bungs and 1.25" x 1/4" wall tubing? The Waggy stuff is really not stout enough for regular hard core use. GaryE has bent his rag link and tie rod a couple of times just this year.

CRASH

CRASH said:

1.5" per foot is the correct taper.

Why not use Chevrolet ends, weld in bungs and 1.25" x 1/4" wall tubing? The Waggy stuff is really not stout enough for regular hard core use. GaryE has bent his rag link and tie rod a couple of times just this year.

CRASH

Click to expand...

Yea I use the 1ton stuff on my dana60 adn used the xj pittman arm:
ES2027L $18.99 high misalignment drag link end Passenger side 7/8"-18 about 7in long with 3in of threads, BIG taper

ES2026R $20.99 high misalignment drag link Pitman arm side end Are 7/8"-18 about 7in long with 3in of threads, BIG taper

ES2234R $23.99 Shorter then the drag links, driver side tie rod 7/8"-18
Application: 85 Blazer

ES2010L $40 Shorter then the drag links, 7/8-18 right and left hand thread TRE


The BIG TREs are the same tool as the stock xj just larger diamater. First drill out the pittman arm, I used a concrete masonry big, it burnt up my normal 5/8in bit... then use the tappered reimer in a really slow drill with oil and ream out the hole till it fits...

Im not sure if my pittman arm will crack but I have spares it its a problem...

The OEM pitman arm is plenty beefy, no worries there.

I don't like the SanpOn reamer, the taper is slightly incorrect (more like 1.6" per foot, and it wears out after a few reamings.

Get the goodson!

CRASH

I used the waggy setup, I had to heat and bend the TR to clear the dana 30 trackbar mount area. I also bent and ground some away from the swaybar mounts to get them to clear. I did bend one draglink in JV. Kragen did warranty it though. I don't think the TR bent though, its tough to tell because its right next to where the bend is. Andy may be talking about a loose TRE I had, I ran the taper too deep and the cotter key hole was too low. some washers fixed it though.

My main complaint is that even with decent angles I get rolling in the TR which comes out as a pretty big dead spot in the steering I don't know if the Chevy TRE would fix that or not.

If I were to do it again I would go Chevy. The waggy setup does not require any welding though thats nice however you do need to heat and bend the TR.

No, the Snap-On reamer is just slightly off. They tighten fine, and they rarely come loose, but it would be better to get the exactly correct reamer, since you are trusting your life to your steering.

The Goodson reamer is dead on.

CRASH

Thanks for all the excellent info guys!

I agree, the Chevy one ton pieces would be a more optimal way to go, but there's several factors that are working against me in getting the pieces machined.

I live in deep suburbia and in order to get things custom fabbed out here, I either gotta spend the $$$ on the tools to do it myself, or haul the stuff WAY out of town and still pay big $$$ to have it done. Secondly, for some reason, there is this trend with retailers out here that if it's in demand, it's got a "Denver Mark-up" added to the price. I dunno what that means but if I lived anywhere else, it'd be much cheaper. For instance, those prices quoted about the Chevy parts -- add anywhere from $5 to $20 to those prices and that's what I'd be paying out here unless I bought online and that takes too long - especially when the morons on the other end send you the wrong part.

So, with all that said, the best choice right now seems to be the Waggy parts. All I have to do to make it work is ream the knuckles and pitman arm. I already was planning on removing the stock track bar bracket, stabilizer bracket and trim off the front of the spring mounts - I have ORGS fab parts coming for just this part of the project. So I'm hoping that I'm not gonna have to do any bending of the Waggy parts.

I don't figure that the future of my XJ will have that D30 in place for too long anyways and I'd rather spend the $$$ on steering for the more permanent replacement axle at that time.

Thanks again guys, I'll be looking for a machine shop that can do that 7 degree ream (or 1.5 inch per foot).

Troy