How to Wire Off Road Lights?

bzauche · Dec 21, 2011

Hey guys, big question.

I'm relatively new to the Jeep world and I have an electrical question for you sparkies out there. I have a Garvin Wilderness roof rack on my XJ, and I am planning on buying 4 budget off road lights, and making my own mounting brackets. My main question is, how do I wire them up? The PO of the XJ had two lights on the roof, but I highly doubt the wiring for 2 55W lights will be sufficient for 4 100W lights. How do I wire them all together, is there something I can use as a quick disconnect in case I decide to take the rack off (wires will be run to the back of the roof and down through the seams in the hatch), what relay do I need (if any), etc...I'm really clueless as far as this stuff goes, so any help would be greatly appreciated. There's already a switch installed next to my steering wheel that I figured I'd use, but I'm thinking I'll have to re-do everything else.

Thanks!

whitexj98 · Dec 21, 2011

I would use 2 realys with 2 switches, 2 lights per switch. Search relays and you will be able to find diagrams on how to wire up relays

Ben824 · Dec 21, 2011

If your rack is steel then you could actually probably get away with grounding them to the rack. I have an all aluminum rack but the mounts for them are still steel and I was able to run a wire to the mounting bolts and they ground fine there. For the positive leads if you want a cheap and easy four wire disconnect just grab a trailer wiring four wire connector. The trailer connector is good for all weather applications and can handle higher wattage. The the higher the power rating of the lights the bigger gauge wire you need. I had four lights on my rack and after running two sets of wires up there I got sick of running wire and just figured I could run two lights off of one lead and that just didn't work. If I wanted to only run two leads I needed to step up the size of the wire because I noticed a huge brightness difference when I hook up both lights. As soon as I disconnect one light the other gets much brighter so I intend to go back and re-do much of the wiring when I get ready to put the lights back on (I took them off for aerodynamic purposes as my Jeep sees a lot of highway duty and with 33s every little bit helps to get it down the highway easier). Now for relays someone with a little more experience can step in but I think one relay for every two light sounds like enough to me some off-road lighting kits come that way so I would think that would be fine in your case.

bzauche · Dec 21, 2011

whitexj98 said:
I would use 2 realys with 2 switches, 2 lights per switch. Search relays and you will be able to find diagrams on how to wire up relays

I guess I can handle that. I was hoping to maybe find a way to only use one switch and one relay.

Ben824 said:
If your rack is steel then you could actually probably get away with grounding them to the rack. I have an all aluminum rack but the mounts for them are still steel and I was able to run a wire to the mounting bolts and they ground fine there. For the positive leads if you want a cheap and easy four wire disconnect just grab a trailer wiring four wire connector. The trailer connector is good for all weather applications and can handle higher wattage. The the higher the power rating of the lights the bigger gauge wire you need. I had four lights on my rack and after running two sets of wires up there I got sick of running wire and just figured I could run two lights off of one lead and that just didn't work. If I wanted to only run two leads I needed to step up the size of the wire because I noticed a huge brightness difference when I hook up both lights. As soon as I disconnect one light the other gets much brighter so I intend to go back and re-do much of the wiring when I get ready to put the lights back on (I took them off for aerodynamic purposes as my Jeep sees a lot of highway duty and with 33s every little bit helps to get it down the highway easier). Now for relays someone with a little more experience can step in but I think one relay for every two light sounds like enough to me some off-road lighting kits come that way so I would think that would be fine in your case.

The rack is steel, so I can ground the lights right by where they will be mounted. Will I really need to run 4 wires from the dash for 4 different lights? I figure with 2 relays and 2 switches, I'll only need to run two wires up to the roof? I know I'll need a bigger gauge. If that won't work I guess I'll find some way to do it. I'm pretty sure the lights I'm getting don't come with any wiring or relays, so I'll need to pick all that up. I drew up a little diagram that hopefully will explain some things...

Basically, if all I had was the wires coming out of the lights, what is a list of everything I need...

jumpnjeep · Dec 21, 2011

Ok the easy way of wiring these is definetly grounding the lights up on the rack or close to it. Now as for power, do you want to split the lights into 2 switches? You can run 2 relays off of 1 switch. All the switch is doing is closing the relay. There is no load there at all, you can operate as many relays as you want on 1 switch, its the load across the relays that you need to pay attn to. But do you want all 4 lights on 1 switch or 2 switches to control 2 lights each?

Most basic bosch relays that you can find at the parts house are 30amp capacity, should be more than enough for 2 lights each. You will want to run a good quality fine strand 12 awg wire to run from your fused power source thru the relays and up to the lights.

So quick parts list:
1 or 2 on/off toggle switches

2- 30 amp capacity relays

12 awg fine strand copper wire. Length to be measured by you. But as a precaution get at
least 3 feet more than you measure, you don't want to mis-measure and end up a few inches short!

You will also need an assortment of wiring connectors. Crimping is ok, but a good solder joint is the best. Any decent parts guy at you local store "should" be to help you get the correct size fittings.

After all that its just a matter of wiring it all up hoping you don't let the smoke out the first time you turn it on! Good luck and post some pics as you go so we can see how it turns out.

bzauche · Dec 21, 2011

jumpnjeep said:
Ok the easy way of wiring these is definetly grounding the lights up on the rack or close to it. Now as for power, do you want to split the lights into 2 switches? You can run 2 relays off of 1 switch. All the switch is doing is closing the relay. There is no load there at all, you can operate as many relays as you want on 1 switch, its the load across the relays that you need to pay attn to. But do you want all 4 lights on 1 switch or 2 switches to control 2 lights each?

Most basic bosch relays that you can find at the parts house are 30amp capacity, should be more than enough for 2 lights each. You will want to run a good quality fine strand 12 awg wire to run from your fused power source thru the relays and up to the lights.

So quick parts list:
1 or 2 on/off toggle switches

2- 30 amp capacity relays

12 awg fine strand copper wire. Length to be measured by you. But as a precaution get at
least 3 feet more than you measure, you don't want to mis-measure and end up a few inches short!

You will also need an assortment of wiring connectors. Crimping is ok, but a good solder joint is the best. Any decent parts guy at you local store "should" be to help you get the correct size fittings.

After all that its just a matter of wiring it all up hoping you don't let the smoke out the first time you turn it on! Good luck and post some pics as you go so we can see how it turns out.

Thanks for the tips, they definitely helped! I like the idea of only having one switch, but if I change my mind, that would require running a second wire up to the other 2 lights, correct? Chances are I'll do the 2 relay, 1 switch setup. You lost me when you said "fused power source." Are the wires going from the battery to the relays, to the switch, then to the lights? Or is there an extra stop that needs to be made? Or is that totally wrong? I apologize for my lack of knowledge. As far as wire connectors go, I was thinking about using "in line connectors" (if that's what they are called) instead of caps, because that will make it easier to conceal the wiring in tubing. Any further help would be awesome!

I will definitely take some pictures when I get this job completed...I am hoping it will be a few days after Christmas!

jumpnjeep · Dec 21, 2011

Actually I forgot you also need some 14 awg wire for the switch and control side of the relays.
I will draw you a wiring diagram tomorrow and post it up with a more detailed description of exactly how to wire it all up.
No worries on the help, at least you asked.

jumpnjeep · Dec 21, 2011

Oh and no, once you wire the relays to the lights if you want to add a 2nd switch all you have to do is wire another switch and seperate the relay control wires. I will draw 2 diagrams tomorrow showing both ways.

bzauche · Dec 21, 2011

jumpnjeep said:
Actually I forgot you also need some 14 awg wire for the switch and control side of the relays.
I will draw you a wiring diagram tomorrow and post it up with a more detailed description of exactly how to wire it all up.
No worries on the help, at least you asked.

I look forward to seeing them. Thanks!

CarbonXJ · Dec 21, 2011

Get you one of these, one of the best additions I have ever used, in both my Jeep and Ranger.
http://www.amazon.com/Painless-Wiri...TF8&coliid=I1XGIOI4NVV40S&colid=1FZE1VWZ4ZN6Q

They also make a relay bank, for WAY too much money, but if you call and ask, then will send you just the holder for free (did with me, but I'm a repeat cust.). I wired up my (3) 100W Front lights and (2) 55W A-pillar lights with these for a clean, almost stock look. I used a 40amp relay for the front and a 20amp for the A-pillar lights. MAKE SURE TO USE CORRECT GAUGE WIRE! that is the KEY to good light output, and using the relays from my battery keeps the power clean.

XCastleXJ · Dec 21, 2011

CarbonXJ said:
I wired up my (3) 100W Front lights and (2) 55W A-pillar lights with these for a clean, almost stock look.

Can I see a picture of how these are mounted?

CarbonXJ · Dec 21, 2011

My jeep is being used by my brother since he wrecked his car. I have the OR-Fab front bumper with light bar, and the Detours A-pillar light mounts. All wiring is kept hidden and is worked into the stock Jeep wiring harness.

Corprin · Dec 21, 2011

^^^This x2

bzauche · Dec 21, 2011

CarbonXJ said:
Get you one of these, one of the best additions I have ever used, in both my Jeep and Ranger.
http://www.amazon.com/Painless-Wiri...TF8&coliid=I1XGIOI4NVV40S&colid=1FZE1VWZ4ZN6Q

They also make a relay bank, for WAY too much money, but if you call and ask, then will send you just the holder for free (did with me, but I'm a repeat cust.). I wired up my (3) 100W Front lights and (2) 55W A-pillar lights with these for a clean, almost stock look. I used a 40amp relay for the front and a 20amp for the A-pillar lights. MAKE SURE TO USE CORRECT GAUGE WIRE! that is the KEY to good light output, and using the relays from my battery keeps the power clean.

So what gauge should I be using? Estimate 20 feet needed...

Corprin said:
^^^This x2

That kind of makes sense...what's the "12V Run Source" though?

Corprin · Dec 21, 2011

bzauche said:
That kind of makes sense...what's the "12V Run Source" though?

AKA 12V acc. It's a fuzed 12v (+) that is only energized when the key is in the "ON" or "RUN" positions. Use this as a guide.

Pin #1 = Ground ( wired to the chassis or any good ground )
Pin #2 = 12v 'run' source ( a.k.a. a hot 12v only when the ignition is turned on such as tapped off radio power feed with wire tap )
Pin #3 = power feeding from 12v run to throw pole in relay to close circuit to turn on fog lights ( run from pin 3 to #85 pin on relay )
Pin #4 = switch illumination (spice with other switch illum, or stereo)

Make sure you get a DPST relay, not the common SPDT that are everywhere you look. You will know by looking at the little wire diagram and/or pins on the unit. If there are two "87" it is DPST, if there is one "87" and one "87a" you are looking at the wrong part. The SPDT will cause one light to be on, while the other is off. The proper DPST will have both on or both off.

You will need one of the following relays,
Bosch PN 0332019150 (w/hanger)
Bosch PN 0332019151 (w/o hanger)

I ordered mine from NAPA, as they are the only ones who would order the specific relay for me, not trust their inaccurate computers and get me a SPDT.

You can run SPDT or SPST relays, but each light will require one. (unless you want to have a splice in your power lead after the relay, the wrong way to do it IMHO)

bzauche · Dec 22, 2011

Corprin said:
AKA 12V acc. It's a fuzed 12v (+) that is only energized when the key is in the "ON" or "RUN" positions. Use this as a guide.

Pin #1 = Ground ( wired to the chassis or any good ground )
Pin #2 = 12v 'run' source ( a.k.a. a hot 12v only when the ignition is turned on such as tapped off radio power feed with wire tap )
Pin #3 = power feeding from 12v run to throw pole in relay to close circuit to turn on fog lights ( run from pin 3 to #85 pin on relay )
Pin #4 = switch illumination (spice with other switch illum, or stereo)

Make sure you get a DPST relay, not the common SPDT that are everywhere you look. You will know by looking at the little wire diagram and/or pins on the unit. If there are two "87" it is DPST, if there is one "87" and one "87a" you are looking at the wrong part. The SPDT will cause one light to be on, while the other is off. The proper DPST will have both on or both off.

You will need one of the following relays,
Bosch PN 0332019150 (w/hanger)
Bosch PN 0332019151 (w/o hanger)

I ordered mine from NAPA, as they are the only ones who would order the specific relay for me, not trust their inaccurate computers and get me a SPDT.

You can run SPDT or SPST relays, but each light will require one. (unless you want to have a splice in your power lead after the relay, the wrong way to do it IMHO)

Ok, so if I wanted to be able to run the lights without the Jeep being on, should I skip the 12V Run Source? Basically it seems like the best way to do this is to run full lengths of wire for each light?

Ben824 · Dec 22, 2011

bzauche said:
Ok, so if I wanted to be able to run the lights without the Jeep being on, should I skip the 12V Run Source? Basically it seems like the best way to do this is to run full lengths of wire for each light?

That is only if you want to use the stock fog lamp switch located near the cigarette lighter. If you want them to work without the Jeep being "on" then run you own switch. You can run four separate wires at the recommended size or run two at a larger than recommended size and run two lights off one lead.

bzauche · Dec 22, 2011

Ben824 said:
That is only if you want to use the stock fog lamp switch located near the cigarette lighter. If you want them to work without the Jeep being "on" then run you own switch. You can run four separate wires at the recommended size or run two at a larger than recommended size and run two lights off one lead.

The fog light switch is already taken...there's two Hella's on my front bumper that run off of it. I didn't do the wiring so I don't know how it's done. The plan for the 4 new lights is to run them off of the old switch, near my steering wheel. The PO had 2 lights installed on the roof running off that switch. I took a look at the wiring of those 2 lights yesterday and realized that he didn't really know what he was doing; there's no relay or anything, just wire coming from the battery, going to the switch, then going to the lights.

Ben824 · Dec 22, 2011

bzauche said:
The fog light switch is already taken...there's two Hella's on my front bumper that run off of it. I didn't do the wiring so I don't know how it's done. The plan for the 4 new lights is to run them off of the old switch, near my steering wheel. The PO had 2 lights installed on the roof running off that switch. I took a look at the wiring of those 2 lights yesterday and realized that he didn't really know what he was doing; there's no relay or anything, just wire coming from the battery, going to the switch, then going to the lights.

You don't always NEED a relay like I don't have one for my rear lights on my rack. Some switches can handle the load for the lights but some cannot and some power needs are beyond the limits of a switch and a relay is needed.

xcm · Dec 22, 2011

Solid state wiring (without relays) doesnt make you stupid. If you take everything into consideration, use the right switch and wire thickness, it'll work and be safe. Many trophy trucks dont use relays due to them failing under extensive constant vibration.

You can also run smaller load stuff (like say, an engine mounted small LED light) without relays.... LED stuff doesnt draw a big load.

Electrical... its complicated.

How to Wire Off Road Lights?

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