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Bar Pin Eliminators

B

BotakBeng

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Las Vegas
Will be replacing all my shocks and would like to order some Bar PIn Eliminators (not quite sure what they for but i know i probably need some) from JKS.

How many do i need (front+rear, top and bottom)?
Appreciate if someone can post link, that way i can't go wrong :laugh3:.

Update.
These are what i found,
Front Bottom BPE PN9603
Rear Top BPE PN9604
(Pls confirm)

Oh, do i need any shock adapters?
Thx.
 
Last edited:
Not really required in my opinion. I just replaced the shocks on mine and left the bar pin style. There are great shock choices with accurate travel for just about every lift with a bar pin. I just replaced the hardware with grade 8 stainless for a little more prevention.

If I had to pick one, I would go with Rusty's or Detours. I have had nothing but great experiences with both companies. If you do eliminate the bar pin, be sure to check the valving on the shocks you're using, as they could be crazy stiff or super soft for another application.

***Those you added are BPE. but whatever shock you choose CANNOT have a bar pin on it. It must have LOOPS on both ends.
 
Last edited:
BotakBeng said:
Will be replacing all my shocks and would like to order some Bar PIn Eliminators (not quite sure what they for but i know i probably need some) from JKS.

How many do i need (front+rear, top and bottom)?
Appreciate if someone can post link, that way i can't go wrong :laugh3:.

Update.
These are what i found,
Front Bottom BPE PN9603
Rear Top BPE PN9604
(Pls confirm)

Oh, do i need any shock adapters?
Thx.
Click to expand...
http://www.rocky-road.com/xjbarpin.html
Check out Rocky Road BPE's. I have them all around, and am very happy with them. I can use stock shocks, with a 2.5" lift, because they extend the shocks by about 1.5". No other adapters needed.
 
If buying BPE's, I would personally avoid any of the BPE's that rotate the shock mount 90*, such as the Teraflex ones. The Rocky Road, JKS, and Detours ones all do not rotate the mount. In my experience the rotated mount causes the bushing to bind sideways instead of rotating when the axle moves and eventually destroys the bushing.
 
im not a fan of the JKS rear ones, i have their front, sold their rear. my whole desire in adding a BPE to the rear was so that i didnt have to touch the stock 4 bolts ever again. i went with the IRO ones. great product.
 
I used the Rough Country TJ/JK rear BPEs on my rear shocks. Haven't bothered with the front since the bolts for the bar pins are easy to get to.

CarbonXJ said:
***Those you added are BPE. but whatever shock you choose CANNOT have a bar pin on it. It must have LOOPS on both ends.
Click to expand...

This does not make sense to me. Assuming you mean stud, not bar pin, and that he was looking at the JKS adapters?
 
I'm running the rusty's one front and rear. No complaints. To take it a step further you can purchase their weld on shock mounts for the axle to eliminate that as a low point. Not essential, but its something to consider. Make sure to remeasure for shocks when you add these so you never fully compress your shock... seen that once. Ouch!
 
N2L 96XJ said:
I'm running the rusty's one front and rear. No complaints. To take it a step further you can purchase their weld on shock mounts for the axle to eliminate that as a low point. Not essential, but its something to consider. Make sure to remeasure for shocks when you add these so you never fully compress your shock... seen that once. Ouch!
Click to expand...

you can just cut your stock mounts off, trim them, and relocate/weld them back on.


assuming you are talking about the rear.
 
N2L 96XJ said:
I'm running the rusty's one front and rear. No complaints. To take it a step further you can purchase their weld on shock mounts for the axle to eliminate that as a low point. Not essential, but its something to consider. Make sure to remeasure for shocks when you add these so you never fully compress your shock... seen that once. Ouch!
Click to expand...

This is what happens...

dsc09144c.jpg
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
clearly that shock was too strong for the mount. you need a 60.











:anon:
Click to expand...

Haha, nah, it was just entirely too long and the factory welds on my 8.25 are really really shitty... I fixed the mounts and bought the correct length shocks.

In my defense, it came with those shocks on it...

Edit: I don't know if you can tell in the picture, but the shock was trashed too.. Bent shaft, blown seal, and a dented body...
 
BotakBeng said:
Oh, do i need any shock adapters?
Thx.
Click to expand...

I use JKS adaptors and BPE's on my front, but that's because I got a really good deal on a set of 5125s.

Without knowing what shocks you're using, or planning on getting, it's tough to say. Both products will sligtly lower your lengths for shocks. On mine, using both, it takes about an inch off of the length. I use Bilstein BE5-6253-H5 (8.60 255/70 N/A 22.50 14.06) add about a little over an inch, and they're 15.5 compressed, and 24" extended. With no shocks my axle movement measures: 17" stuffed, 20½" static, 24" flex/drop. I have 2 hockey pucks to take up the 3" so I don't over compress them, and my steering or links bind before they over extend. I should probably add straps just in case.

cc9d5ce7.jpg
 
Thanks everyone for their comments and suggestion.

I'm just doing a shopping list for my soon to be done lift project.

Again, appreciate all the help!
 
Rears I can understand need BPE because of how the upper mount is a weak point in the XJ but the front if it is not squeaking or you are not needing more drop from your shock I don't see a need. Nice to have maybe but is there a need?
 
Skipper51 said:
Rears I can understand need BPE because of how the upper mount is a weak point in the XJ but the front if it is not squeaking or you are not needing more drop from your shock I don't see a need. Nice to have maybe but is there a need?
Click to expand...

Good read Skipper.
I'm just only gonna get the rear instead.

Thx.
 
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