Should I do some welding and adjusting?

ArmyDad · Nov 7, 2011

With all the suspension modifications that have taken place up to this point, there are a few on my list I'd like to do to clean things up. They may or may not be happening right away and there are a couple more modifications I'm contemplating at the same time.

With the current 5" lift, soon to be 6", there are some pretty significant angles on the differentials. I hate degree shims with a passion and these (6* in the rear) are really not making me happy. Here's what'll be happening over the next 3-4 weeks.

1 - Installing a 1-1/2" lift rear shackle (Teraflex). The XJ is notorious for a short OEM shackle and word has it this is the lift to get.

2 - Install a shackle re-locator (Rough Country). It also has a measured lift of 1" or so. After installation, the net lift will be determined and the front coils will get a spacer to equalize lift front and rear. I'm told not to expect more than ~1" net lift even thought the numbers might indicate otherwise ... with the proper operating angle and the shackles allowing more flex.

So, the operating angles of the differentials will be even more extreme. I've heard of cases where the the spring perches are cut off, the pinion angles adjusted and perches welded back on ... no more shims. Should I pursue this? Now for the additional work under consideration.

What about stretching the wheelbase? The XJ is 104" in stock trim and with lift something less. As it stands currently, my clearance to the transfer case crossmember (my lowest point) is about 21". I'd be looking to improve the attack and departure angles. I'm looking at moving the front axle about 1-1/2" using the adjustable CAs (Rough Country). The rear could include drilling the spring perch and using a "axle relocation plate" for up to 2" ... all welded to the axle for support. The shock mounts would be relocated at the same time. Should I pursue the stretch or let it wait?

Thanks!
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MoparManiac · Nov 7, 2011

XJ is ~101" in stock trim.

What size tires are you running?

Nothing wrong with steel shims if the center pin runs all the way through them. I ran them for years like this. I think you're making more work for yourself.

Any reason for wanting 6+" of lift? I ran 5.5" on 35s with room to spare and minimal trimming.

Front stretches are comming, steering linkage/track bar starts to get in the way. Rear stretches are common with different spring packs. Usually these coincide with fender/quarter trimming and large (35+") tires.

ArmyDad · Nov 7, 2011

MoparManiac said:
XJ is ~101" in stock trim. According to specs, it's about 104", but with the lift at present (5-1/2") I'm sure it's less.

What size tires are you running? 33x13.5R15 Toyo MT

Nothing wrong with steel shims if the center pin runs all the way through them. I ran them for years like this. I think you're making more work for yourself. They do ... just another one of those unfounded "dislikes". I guess we all have one or two unsubstantiated "peeves".

Any reason for wanting 6+" of lift? I ran 5.5" on 35s with room to spare and minimal trimming. The lift is actually 4-1/2" Rough Country in front and Rubicon Express in the rear. The RC lift is 4-1/2" after settling and the RE was 5-1/2" so I added a second coil isolator in the front (~3/4") which can come out. The rear is what it is and with the addition of the spring relocator and shackle I figure to add ~1" to the rear. No way to reduce that . So I'll just ADJUST the front height to the rear to keep it balanced.

Front stretches are comming, steering linkage/track bar starts to get in the way. Rear stretches are common with different spring packs. Usually these coincide with fender/quarter trimming and large (35+") tires. Done some front trimming already (check out my build thread) and rear will be next. Not looking to stretch a lot, just want to improve angles. Don't want to get into any complicated (a.k.a. $$$$) suspension modifications such as the ones you are warning me about. With the folks I wheel with are here in the Sierras, the bigger the rocks you can crawl over the better. Oh, I'll also be folding up the rear quarterpanels and putting protection under them as well.

MoparManiac · Nov 7, 2011

Feel free to move the perches if you would like to do it that way. Both shims/relocating the perches provide the same results.

If you feel the need for better approach/departure angles, go for the stretch then. No one can tell you you need it or not except for you. Not sure what the maximum amount you can stretch is, but I'd say no more than 2" as a guess for the front. Not sure about the rear since the diff will get close to the gas tank.

RCman · Nov 7, 2011

Stock XJ wheelbase is just shy of ~101.5".

Relocate the rear shackles for the best angle and move the axle back so that it just clears the fuel tank (unless you want to relocate that too). Push the front out ~1" assuming your steering setup allows. See what kind of lift that setup gives you. If the rear is still a bit high throw a few 40 or 50 pound bags of something back there for a bit and let them settle in. No need at all to be over 4.5" on 33s unless your a mud truck in FL. Heck, most of us guys running larger tires (39"+) are well less than 6" of lift.

ArmyDad · Nov 7, 2011

RCman said:
Stock XJ wheelbase is just shy of ~101.5".

Relocate the rear shackles for the best angle and move the axle back so that it just clears the fuel tank (unless you want to relocate that too). Push the front out ~1" assuming your steering setup allows. See what kind of lift that setup gives you. If the rear is still a bit high throw a few 40 or 50 pound bags of something back there for a bit and let them settle in. No need at all to be over 4.5" on 33s unless your a mud truck in FL. Heck, most of us guys running larger tires (39"+) are well less than 6" of lift.

GAH, you and Mopar are right about stock wheelbase at 101.4" ... coffee had not initiated higher brain function earlier, my apologies.

Going to do a through exam of the front next weekend. Will check for ability of track bar to make the arc for a 1" to 1-1/2" stretch. If it will, then I'll check the drag link and tie rod. Assuming those points will allow for that much adjustability, then moving the axle side of the spring/shock mount rearward the same distance as the stretch will be considered to keep those operating angles within spec (read: vertical, no bulge/bump stop interference).

The rear stretch will be just as you say. I'm going to try and keep the RE spring and do the stretch by extending the spring perch/centering pin forward the 2"-3" necessary to get the stretch without relocating the tank. Obviously there will need to be some reinforcement as the perch will no longer just be sitting on top of the axle, but will also have support to the front of the axle. Might also need to consider traction bars but I was thinking about those anyway. And not to forget, the DS will need to be lengthened the same amount as will the shock mounts on the axle and body will need to be moved.

Will keep everyone apprised of how it goes.
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lazyxj · Nov 7, 2011

ArmyDad said:
The rear is what it is and with the addition of the spring relocator and shackle I figure to add ~1" to the rear. No way to reduce that . So I'll just ADJUST the front height to the rear to keep it balanced.

Aftermarket shackles come in 1", 2" and 3" longer versions than stock, giving 1/2", 1" and 1-1/2" of additional lift.
This provides ability to do some fine tuning of the rear lift.
The JKS shackles I'm running are 2" taller and give 1" of lift.

I've run quality steel degree shims for decades and never had a problem. Just keep the u-bolts tight. Once dialed in, you can tack them into place, if you want.
It's the aluminum shims that have the bad name as they can crack, collapse and be spit out.
I hate to weld things down since revisions to the lift just seem to automaticly happen. I have several sets of shims and love having the ability to mix things up on a Saturday morning .
A set of ACOS, in the front end, makes this game even more fun.

ArmyDad · Nov 7, 2011

lazyxj said:
Aftermarket shackles come in 1", 2" and 3" longer versions than stock, giving 1/2", 1" and 1-1/2" of additional lift.
This provides ability to do some fine tuning of the rear lift.
The JKS shackles I'm running are 2" taller and give 1" of lift.

I've run quality steel degree shims for decades and never had a problem. Just keep the u-bolts tight. Once dialed in, you can tack them into place, if you want.
It's the aluminum shims that have the bad name as they can crack, collapse and be spit out.
I hate to weld things down since revisions to the lift just seem to automaticly happen. I have several sets of shims and love having the ability to mix things up on a Saturday morning .
A set of ACOS, in the front end, makes this game even more fun.

Yeah, EricsXJ is running the same RE leaf springs as me so I went with the same shackle and an adjustable spring relocator similar to the one he rigged up.:read:

And those u-bolts around the axle are checked frequently. The degree shims are steel ... those are RE as well.:arrowl:
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Should I do some welding and adjusting?

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