Turbo project

[CW]

I am planning on doing a turbo for my 4.6 in a couple of months. So far, the only turbos I have come across at the pull-and-save are for smaller engines with displacement under 2.5L. The goals of my project are to create a set up with minimal lag, be able to run 2-5lbs of boost, and fit completely under the hood. I would like to have the manifold come strait out with the turbo next to the intake manifold, it looks like there is enough room. I would like to begin building the manifold soon, is there any special considerations when building one, do the runners need to be equall lengths? I will be making it out of my old renix manifold. Is it a good idea to go with a smaller turbo? It will spool quickley and I don't think 5lbs of boost is past there limits? All my parts will be from the pull-and-save, turbos are $16 IC's are $16, blow off vales and wastegates are $8. With my 24# injectors, adjustable MAP, and relocated IAT, the RENIX system should be able to adapt to the boost conditions and I should be able to get a working turbo system for under $150. Any input would be appreciated.

[REDXJ4FUN]

It looks like you'll beat me to my turbo setup but heres the best place to find the information you need. These guys know how to put it all together. It can take some time to get all the info you need plus i belive there are some books out there aswell.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/jyturbo/?yguid=112887697

[MrShoeBoy]

Make sure to take lots of photos! There are a few others who would like to do the same.

As for the Manifold, I have no idea. I would just try and make the tubes as smooth and kink free as possable. With a turbo, flow is your friend. More air going in needs to somehow get out.

With the mods that you described with the bigger injectors, map adjuster, and IAT relocation, 5lbs of boost sounds safe. If at all possable take it and have it dynod. When on the dyno you can stick a wideband O2 sensor in the exhaust and fine tune the map sensor to A: get more power, and B: keep from leaning out the motor and blowing it up.

Another thing to consider is making the CPS sensor adjustable. I cant remember how much timing adjustement the Renix system can do but timing and a turbo are critical, as I have seen a few turbo cars make 10-15hp gains from changing the timing a degree or two.

Also, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator might be a good idea to help with the fuel delivery under boost when you really need it. They make boost dependent regulators, but I havent seen one specifically for a Jeep. Its all about experimentation.

Good luck

AARON

Quick thought: Why not make it a twin setup since the turbos are small? :D

[CW]

I am going to set up an air/fuel guage after I bolt my stroker in so that should get me close with the fuel delivery. With the renix system you can run a high altitude CPS that offers a few degrees advance, I believe Bill Vista was even able to find a way to retard timing with it. I will most likely be doing this. I thought about a twin turbo set up but I have doubts about space. If I can't find a suitable single turbo then I might have to think more about the twin turbo.

[M. Lake]

They are a good group, but most are ford freaks, a couple of ricers, and 1-2 SBC. I tried to get them to help me get my turbo set up, but they were all conflicting each other, and other info I got else were. I have a A/R Gerrat T04B that came off a 7.0L cat diesle engine, some say it wont wind up until ~4-5K, and others tell me it will start at 3K and spool out at 4K. There has been the issue of diesle exhaust not the same as pump gas, that it flows differntley differently. Until last night, no one was able to tell me how it was different. Some buddys of mine are diesle machs and they told me that a diesle runs around 18:1 CR. It flows more air than a pump gas. So with a smaller motor and a lower CR, that should even out the set up for me. IMHO

:anon:

[XJ-ARMOR]

Lake- That T4 may work well, however can say until you find out what the compressor and turbine housing ratios ect. What trim is that thing running. The pure volume of a T4 used on a 7.0 is huge. Generally speaking without seeing any figures on it, Id say that the turbo wouldn't spool until high RPM...about 4-5k on a 4.0L. The volumetric efficiency is very different on the 7.0 diesel vs. the 4.0. Although I am not certain what the change would be on the CR issue..since a 4.0 doesn't get up to 18:1 even on a good day. Maybe you could call turbo city for some advice. SOME of those guys are helpful.

[Ed A. Stevens]

Originally posted by CW.
I am planning on doing a turbo for my 4.6 in a couple of months. So far, the only turbos I have come across at the pull-and-save are for smaller engines with displacement under 2.5L. The goals of my project are to create a set up with minimal lag, be able to run 2-5lbs of boost, and fit completely under the hood. I would like to have the manifold come strait out with the turbo next to the intake manifold, it looks like there is enough room. I would like to begin building the manifold soon, is there any special considerations when building one, do the runners need to be equall lengths? I will be making it out of my old renix manifold. Is it a good idea to go with a smaller turbo? It will spool quickley and I don't think 5lbs of boost is past there limits? All my parts will be from the pull-and-save, turbos are $16 IC's are $16, blow off vales and wastegates are $8. With my 24# injectors, adjustable MAP, and relocated IAT, the RENIX system should be able to adapt to the boost conditions and I should be able to get a working turbo system for under $150. Any input would be appreciated.


Are you planning to draw through the TB? If so, move the MAP and IAT upstream of the turbo. The MAP only reads vacuum, the IAT should read what enters the turbo from the same location as the MAP vacuum.

I would reuse as much of the factory intake as possible for the initial configuration. This allows you to focus on tube routing for the TB to turbo, and turbo to intercooler and then manifold (rather than building something more complex to begin with). If the initial turbo proves too small (cannot provide WOT boost at highway rpm) then a simple system is easier to upgrade.

The theory to keep the compessed volume minimal is true, but impractical when blowing through a large intercooler (essentially blowing through a radiator). The benefit of an intercooler is greater than an idealized flow path and volume.

Buy and study the turbo books for the effective airflow vs. rpm & compression ratio calculations with the size turbo you can find (to predict what will happen with the cheap parts). You will spend considerable time tuning, so make everything else simple.

Buy everything the P&S has available, including the air to air intercooler.

Good luck, and keep us posted.

[CW]

Thanks for the tips. I agree on keeping it simple, this is the type of project that could get overly complicated and expensive in a hurry. I all ready have the IAT in the air tube and I was wondering about how the MAP would react to posotive manifold preasure rather than vacume. This weekend I will hit the junkyard and pick up everything I might need.

[MrShoeBoy]

Ed A. Stevens,

Wouldnt a water to air intercooler be easier to set up than an air to air unit? The reason I ask is where the hell are you going to mount an air to air intercooler and piping on an XJ with out it being in dangers way such as being smacked by a rock?

Then on the flip side, how would you set up a water to air unit? I see the mounting of a mini radiator and running water hose easier than tubing supporting an air to air unit.

Thanks,

AARON

[CW]

I think a water injection system may be easier than an IC, especially for lifted off-roaders like me. I have always had a concern with injecting water into my engine though.
I did a search for homebrew water injection and found some usefull information.:
http://www.lehigh.edu/~erp4/saab/Upgrades/WaterInj.html
http://website.lineone.net/~da.cushman/misc/mannject.html
http://home.att.net/~stevemon/AlcoholInjMod.html
I also was thinking about running a 7nth injector off of the #1 wires and running the lines to a water tank.

[M. Lake]

WI Chemical Reaction (http://not2fast.wryday.com/thermo/water_injection/water_chemistry.txt)

It can be a little confusing, but I get the idea.

[M. Lake]

:repair:

I was thinking of putting in injectors and running a t off the rail, or do an extra fuel manigement to control water injectors. Using the megasquirt.

[Ed A. Stevens]

Originally posted by MrShoeBoy
Ed A. Stevens,

Wouldnt a water to air intercooler be easier to set up than an air to air unit? The reason I ask is where the hell are you going to mount an air to air intercooler and piping on an XJ with out it being in dangers way such as being smacked by a rock?

Then on the flip side, how would you set up a water to air unit? I see the mounting of a mini radiator and running water hose easier than tubing supporting an air to air unit.

Thanks,

AARON

I would think you would need to find a water to air intercooler, first, before deciding what is easier to install?

The XJ is a challenge to find room for any intercooler. Maybe the first attempt should be without an intercooler?

Another common intercooler method is to use an A/C evaporator as a refrigerated intercooler (run the A/C compressor to cool the intake air). With the limited room in an XJ, this may be the best solution (and one than can be turned on and off).

I would not expect a turbo to be the ideal supercharger for an off-road XJ. The concern is heat, excessive heat with the turbo, in addition to the XJ cooling issues. The turbo may be more efficient supercharger (great on the street), but the heat generated and contained in the exhaust may present a larger problem off-road where low speed cooling is already limited in the XJ.

[CW]

OK I think I have an IC solution figured out. I am going to build a circuit that triggers a fuel injector everytime the #1 spark fires. I will work basically like a timing light. I will inject the water/alch. mix into the airtube. The injector should atomise the water well enough to not damage the turbo, and there is no risk of hydrolocking the engine from an accidental siphon.

[MrShoeBoy]

Ed A. Stevens,

The A/C idea is totally off the wall! I never thought about that. I am going to look into that. Sounds really sweet if it where set up correctly.

As for the heat, I dont see why a good water pump like a Flowkooler, 180 t-stat, and a good aftermarket radiator such as a modine should have any problems handling the heat so long as everything was in correct working order. As long as an eye is kept on the temp gauges and nothing is getting excessivly hot, there shouldnt be a problem.

CW,
That sound like a good idea but what type of injector where you looking at? There are mister tips that are specificaly for turbo setups and they cant be that cheep. Would TDC on #1 be enough spray or too much?

AARON

BTW: This is a great thread so far:cool: Lets keep the info coming!

[CW]

I was planning on prototyping the water injection system with one of my stock injectors and a canibalized section of my stock fuel rail (everything was upgraded for my stroker) I will install a thermometer in the intake and play with the setup until I have the coolest temp I can get out of it.

[REDXJ4FUN]

I wish i could find where I had read it but propane injection can take care of 2 things at once. first off its a very high octane fuel to help prevent leaning out and the second is that when released in its gas form it is kinda an inercooler in a bottle. therer are some small innercoolers from ricers both air to air and water to air that would work in the tigh confines of the XJ.

[CW]

I went to the junkyard yesterday and got all the parts I need to finish my stroker. I passed up a turbo that was in a Le Baran Turbo because it was so small, there are several of those in the yard and it seems like they get robbed really fast. Should I go for the turbo or keep looking for something bigger? I guess I could just use it to prototype with and then upgrade if I think I need to. I got all the materials for my injection system and I will post a writeup when I complete the project, along with the turbo manifold construction. I may do the injection just so I can use regular gas on my stroker (it basically raises the octane level) and work the bugs out of the system before I install the turbo. I am planning on running an alcohol/water mix so the extra fuel in the mix should help when I'm in boost.

[edeslaur]

From turboing my 6.2 Chev diesel, here's what I learned. BTW, I built the manifold myself and socred a used RayJay sized for the application.

You MUST have a near-vertical return line for the oil return. Uphill or near horizontal are absolute NO-NOs. Use 3/4" ID hose or larger since it will be coming out foamed in some applications.

Make sure you have enough room around the turbine housing for heat issues.

Intercoolers are nice, so consider where to put one if you don't do it now. The higher the PSI, the more interesting an intercooler becomes. Air-air is fine.

Be sure to size your turbo appropriately. Get one off something in the similar 4-4.6L range.

Consider a wastegate, either attached or upstream. This can save your motor.

Recently there was an article in one of the Honda mags where they turbo'd an FI CRX. Looked pretty simple overall. Routing the tubing was the hard part.

Let us know how it comes out!

[CW]

The more I think about it I don't see any practical way of mounting the turbo next to the intake manifold. I was looking at a diagram of the deisil xj's turbo and it sits below the engine, pretty much where the manifold ends on the 4.0. I think it would be much easier to bolt the turbo up down there and then just run the intake line up. I would make a skid for it, and the UCA isn't a concern for me because of my long arms.

P.S. I have the water injection circiut finished, I just have to get my stroker runnin so I can test it. If everything works out I will post a writeup.

[M. Lake]

The trim is a V2 on my t04b with a 1.15 hot house.
http://www.turbofast.com.au/img/to4b-v1.jpg I have no idea how to read this.

I have been told that it will spool around 2-3K, but have been told a million different things. I still need to get my pistons, and then my stroker will be ready to put back together (heads on block with cam and crank, tons of other crap still needed) but I am going to run it as it is. If it spools up late, then I will get a smaller HH.

Ray Hall (http://www.turbofast.com.au/)

[CW]

I downloaded DeskTop Dyno and I really like it. I played with a bunch of setting and turbos that I could probably get and learned alot. This is what I got with 6lbs of boost and a 40% IC. (I'm guessing I could hit these numbers with my injection system)
http://www.picturevillage.com/photo/data/c8862fc1a32725712838863fb1a260b9/11183_p137479.gif
This is with the turbo I snagged from a Le Beron, but I don't think I am going to use it because it has excesive play. But it was only $12. From the datasheet it looks like it spooled up at around 2500 and kept the boost up thruogh my 4800rpm rev limiter. My HP actually peaks around 5500 but my cam choice limits my rev range and I would risk valvetrain damage it I go that high.

[CW]

MLake-
Out of curiousity and boardom I plugged your turbo into it and came up with these numbers.
http://www.picturevillage.com/photo/data/c8862fc1a32725712838863fb1a260b9/full_11183_p137508.gif
I based it on an AP 4.6L stroker, because I didn't know specifics, but it looks promising. That is with 6#'s of boost.

[M. Lake]

C.W.

I am doing a "my own" recipet to do the stroker. 1990 YJ 258 crank 4 CW with the short snout. 707 forged rods, Vonilai (sp?) pistons @ .060 over w/33 CC dish, .043 mopar head gasket and shaving the block a bit. I will also increass the CC in the heads by 3-4 and not shave it. Using a Crane 753901 cam and matching lifters, spring and retainers. 2.02 SS intake and 1.56 SS exhaust (ordered 1.60 but didn't get um) port matched (the best I could) the heads to the gasket (which was larger than the intake and exhoust ports) Using a 68 mm (http://www.fbthrottlebodies.com/products.htm#66jeep) TB and machined the intake out to 69mm, a TB spacer machined to 69 mm to match, and a set of roller rockers. Have gibson headers and will do a nice a$$ (whatever it will be) 2.5" exhaust with high flow cat and mufler. Stock quench is .65, and I was told to run it at ~.045, but will shot for a .50-.55 and run an alci/water injecton system straight into the top of TB so that it does not travle through the turbo. I was thinking of putting the turbo on the headers and run it up (about 4 city blocks of room, unlike bears set up) or putting it in the stock air box location and running a snorkle (just to cool the air down some), 2 or 3 bar map instead of an adjustable one. If I can get close to 450-500 in HP/TQ range, that will be nice (~1200 rpm). I have a SM465 that I thought about using, but with that kind of #'s, I would need to carry a spare jeep for parts on the trail. But I doubt that the 350 HP/TQ rating on the AW-4 can handle it. level 10 (http://www.levelten.com/store/index.htm) tells me that they have a rebuild kit for the AW-4 that can handle 750 HP/TQ. Once I get the pistons, I can put motor together and slap it in, then I can work on the parts that attach to the motor later, water pump, injectors, turbo, things like that. Oh and oil pump.

With 8-10 lbs of boost. :rolleyes:

If I had the skills, I would build new intake with 3 runners to one 68 mm TB and the other 3 to an other 68 TB and have just one of the TPS's hooked up and have one connected to other to balance them. But don't know if a single turbo will handle the split, and don't want duals.

[CW]

Using the above info I got this.
http://www.picturevillage.com/photo/data/c8862fc1a32725712838863fb1a260b9/11183_p137553.gif
Thats with 10lbs of boost:rolleyes: and all the specs you mentioned.
450hp @ 6500
428ft/lb @ 4500
:D

[MudDawg]

The closer you hold the quench, the less likely you are to get detonation...on the exhaust manifold...shorter tubes the better...you don't need big tubes either, the pressure drop will be across the turbo...wrap the exhaust with insulation including the hot side housing on the turbo..not only will this help with underhood temperature, it will help with power output. another way to go is have the exhaustmanifold and turbo housing ceramic coated..doesn't insulate as well as the wrap but nothing will rust...and deburr everything in the combustion chamber to eliminate hot spots..if you have the motorcraft based ignition the wire that goes from the ignition box to the starter solenoid when activated will retard the ignition some...you could rig a hobbs switch to activate it if it offers enough retard for your purpose..

[mtbkr]

Its cool to find people working on turbo xjs mine will be finished for the most part this weekend
as far as the used parts a concerned I tried the used route with no luck my used turbos turbine shaft broke I decided to go with new parts I have pics but I dont know how to load them if you are interseted email me
here is a list of parts installed
switzer t04b
tial 32mm wastegate
24lbhr injectors
mits eclipe blow off valve
msd boost timing master
dynomax muffler 3in exaust
k&n air filter

[mtbkr]

I am planning on doing a turbo for my 4.6 in a couple of months. So far, the only turbos I have come across at the pull-and-save are for smaller engines with displacement under 2.5L. The goals of my project are to create a set up with minimal lag, be able to run 2-5lbs of boost, and fit completely under the hood. I would like to have the manifold come strait out with the turbo next to the intake manifold, it looks like there is enough room. I would like to begin building the manifold soon, is there any special considerations when building one, do the runners need to be equall lengths? I will be making it out of my old renix manifold. Is it a good idea to go with a smaller turbo? It will spool quickley and I don't think 5lbs of boost is past there limits? All my parts will be from the pull-and-save, turbos are $16 IC's are $16, blow off vales and wastegates are $8. With my 24# injectors, adjustable MAP, and relocated IAT, the RENIX system should be able to adapt to the boost conditions and I should be able to get a working turbo system for under $150. Any input would be appreciated.

[mtbkr]

I am planning on doing a turbo for my 4.6 in a couple of months. So far, the only turbos I have come across at the pull-and-save are for smaller engines with displacement under 2.5L. The goals of my project are to create a set up with minimal lag, be able to run 2-5lbs of boost, and fit completely under the hood. I would like to have the manifold come strait out with the turbo next to the intake manifold, it looks like there is enough room. I would like to begin building the manifold soon, is there any special considerations when building one, do the runners need to be equall lengths? I will be making it out of my old renix manifold. Is it a good idea to go with a smaller turbo? It will spool quickley and I don't think 5lbs of boost is past there limits? All my parts will be from the pull-and-save, turbos are $16 IC's are $16, blow off vales and wastegates are $8. With my 24# injectors, adjustable MAP, and relocated IAT, the RENIX system should be able to adapt to the boost conditions and I should be able to get a working turbo system for under $150. Any input would be appreciated.
Here are some pictures of my set up in the install stages with any luck they will come up
the insulation had to be removed to much heat was being retained in the manifold. my jeep is up and running and the turbo seems to be working great no problems I think that I may have to upgrade my fuel pump and install a rising rate fuel regulator but so far so good

http://jeffreyd.dorms.usu.edu/jack/turbo_in_process.jpg
http://jeffreyd.dorms.usu.edu/jack/turbo_in_process_1.jpg
http://jeffreyd.dorms.usu.edu/jack/turbo_on_mani_1.jpg
http://jeffreyd.dorms.usu.edu/jack/turbo_on_manifold.jpg
http://jeffreyd.dorms.usu.edu/jack/insulated.jpg

[rav]

Here are some pictures of my set up in the install stages with any luck they will come up
the insulation had to be removed to much heat was being retained in the manifold. my jeep is up and running and the turbo seems to be working great no problems I think that I may have to upgrade my fuel pump and install a rising rate fuel regulator but so far so good

http://jeffreyd.dorms.usu.edu/jack/turbo_in_process.jpg
http://jeffreyd.dorms.usu.edu/jack/turbo_in_process_1.jpg
http://jeffreyd.dorms.usu.edu/jack/turbo_on_mani_1.jpg
http://jeffreyd.dorms.usu.edu/jack/turbo_on_manifold.jpg
http://jeffreyd.dorms.usu.edu/jack/insulated.jpg

Looks awesome man, good to see such a clean install, can you give me breakdown of what parts to get and from which vehicle, i can go and get them, can you also write an install article, i am asking a lot of you but would really appreciate if you could help me out.I would really like to copy you and the fact that yours is a Renix is even better.

[yanster]

This is cool stuff you guys are talking about here.

On my other car I'm running a supercharger with water/methanol injection. At 10psi we're seeing intake temperatures go over 200 degrees. With the injection, the temperature consistently goes to about 110-115. I had the best luck with 50/50 mix of methanol and water. The methanol soaks up the heat real well, and the water, it does everything you guys talked about. We're actually advancing timing over stock with this injection setup.

I would think fuel pump and a rising rate FPR will be a must.

[mtbkr]

Looks awesome man, good to see such a clean install, can you give me breakdown of what parts to get and from which vehicle, i can go and get them, can you also write an install article, i am asking a lot of you but would really appreciate if you could help me out.I would really like to copy you and the fact that yours is a Renix is even better.
I will see what I can do it will probably take me a few days to get it all put togather.:wave1:

[phaythe]

I will see what I can do it will probably take me a few days to get it all put togather.:wave1:


Oh yes, too good to be true. I just managed to find myself in possesion of two T04Bs (very much used unfortunatly...rebuild time) this last weekend! (Hooray for grandfathers with shops full of junk they don't use anymore!)

I've been planning on TCing my '97 XJ pretty much since I purchased it (about a year ago now). Any extra info you can provide on your install will be greatly helpful!

For starters, how much boost are you running? And what compressor/turbine ratios?

-- Randall Gordon
'97 XJ Country
http://97xj.shattering.com/

[mtbkr]

Oh yes, too good to be true. I just managed to find myself in possesion of two T04Bs (very much used unfortunatly...rebuild time) this last weekend! (Hooray for grandfathers with shops full of junk they don't use anymore!)

I've been planning on TCing my '97 XJ pretty much since I purchased it (about a year ago now). Any extra info you can provide on your install will be greatly helpful!

For starters, how much boost are you running? And what compressor/turbine ratios?

-- Randall Gordon
'97 XJ Country
http://97xj.shattering.com/
I am running 7 psi my compressor side is a .60 and the turbine is a .96 p trim to4b
I have not had time to put togather any good pics.
As you have seen in the pics I used a stock manifold cutting off all of the tubes and installing a single collector. The collector is 2.25 in with a three in section dropping down into the turbo flange, the waste gate is feed by a 1.5 in pipe. the wastegate dumps into the exaust pipe after the turbo. I used a 3 in mandrell bent pipe to make the drop from the down pipe flange into the exaust. The turbo starts to wind up around 1900 rpm, full spool around 2500 rpm. As I stated before I need to get more fuel but even with that problem I am really pleased with the improvement in HP and drivability. I will work on getting some more pics out soon :looney:

[edeslaur]

I just managed to find myself in possesion of two T04Bs (very much used unfortunatly...rebuild time) this last weekend!

-- Randall Gordon
'97 XJ Country
http://97xj.shattering.com/

Coupla rebuild kits (no clue how complete) on eBay closing in a couple of days.

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?cgiurl=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Fws%2 F&krd=1&from=R8&MfcISAPICommand=GetResult&ht=1&SortProperty=MetaEndSort&query=T04B

Eric D
00 XJ -> JeepSpeed 1757

[phaythe]

Coupla rebuild kits (no clue how complete) on eBay closing in a couple of days.

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?cgiurl=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Fws%2 F&krd=1&from=R8&MfcISAPICommand=GetResult&ht=1&SortProperty=MetaEndSort&query=T04B

Eric D
00 XJ -> JeepSpeed 1757

Thanks for alerting me to this...Unfortunatly I am currently broke, so for now, no rebuild kit. I am also nearly sure that the main thing which is going to need replacing is *cringe* the wheel itself...the blades on both compressor and turbine side are in pretty bad shape...In that case I'll probably just end up waiting for a good deal on a new T04B to show up on eBay.

Speaking of good deals - there may be others looking at this thred that will find this useful:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33742&item=2462632884

Genuine Garrett T04B .60/.96 p-trim..."Buy it now" $350...From what mtbkr is claming about the RPMs he is spooling at, this turbo seems like the perfect choice to get the job done...Full boost at 2500RPM is close to nirvana on the 4.0L in my opinion :) I just can't wait to feel it for myself!

[mtbkr]

I am running 7 psi my compressor side is a .60 and the turbine is a .96 p trim to4b
I have not had time to put togather any good pics.
As you have seen in the pics I used a stock manifold cutting off all of the tubes and installing a single collector. The collector is 2.25 in with a three in section dropping down into the turbo flange, the waste gate is feed by a 1.5 in pipe. the wastegate dumps into the exaust pipe after the turbo. I used a 3 in mandrell bent pipe to make the drop from the down pipe flange into the exaust. The turbo starts to wind up around 1900 rpm, full spool around 2500 rpm. As I stated before I need to get more fuel but even with that problem I am really pleased with the improvement in HP and drivability. I will work on getting some more pics out soon :looney:
I installed a rising rate regulator today set it up to run 40psi with no input from the manifold
this has it running 35psi under vac and aprox 47 psi under full boost (7psi boost) the hesitation under full throttle is gone and it is running great
:loveu:

[phaythe]

I installed a rising rate regulator today set it up to run 40psi with no input from the manifold
this has it running 35psi under vac and aprox 47 psi under full boost (7psi boost) the hesitation under full throttle is gone and it is running great
:loveu:


That's awesome! Now where are the pics!??!! :)

I can't wait to get mine started...just pulled apart the turbos I've got today, looks like I should be able to get one of them rebuilt and running good, as it has minimal shaft play. The other one is pretty much shot though :( But I'll polish it up and it sure will look good as living room decor :D

How much HP increase do you think you've got? Any plans on getting it dyno'd? Taking it to a track and getting a 1/4 mile time??? These are the true tests :D

[MudDawg]

Having all the hot side parts ceramic coated will help with the heat problem...side benefits are increased efficiency since it is the heat energy that actually drives the process and the coating will keep parts from rusting.
Unfortunately I have no useable input on setup or tuning...all my turbo info is for carbed setups...hook up with some ricer tuners for input, those guys are on the leading edge of turbo technology.

[phaythe]

mtbkr - just wondering if you've got anything new to report? How's it running a few weeks later? any new pictures?

[mtbkr]

mtbkr - just wondering if you've got anything new to report? How's it running a few weeks later? any new pictures?
It is running great I got the timing master dialed in the turbo set up is working really well
the transition to from vac boost is very smooth and consistant every time the jeep is not a hot
rod by any means but I can lay a pretty good patch of rubber I race my brother in his
short bed 2wd chev with a 350 and I blew his doors off the only problem I have had is with my fuel lines leaking
I bought a intercooler when I install it I am going to move my wastegate and redo my fuel lines sorry no new pics just the ones on the "turbo 4.0 xj" thread
jack:roflmao:

[thewrath]

anybody ever think of trying to copy the turbo design in the syclone. it was running 13.8 psi of boost, and its turbo had a built in wastegate, might add some simplicity and space savings. also the turbo is on a 4.3L V6, very simmilar size to the 4.0L.

just an idea

[Boris T]

I think that is an option or the setup from the Buick Grand National or GNX> Tons of those guys are running strokers (I think 4.1 or 4.3) versions of the 3.8. I really like where this thread is going!
Travis :peace: