Auto to manual swap complete but with issues

Hello,
I have been lurking on forums for years but this is my first post. After haveing my first AW4 fail I replaced it with another and converted to 4x4 at the same time. 50 thousand miles later that tranny began to show signs of distress and I bit the bullet and bought a complete donor vehicle with an ax15 for the conversion.
Specs:

My Jeep
1998 Cherokee 4 door
4.0 six
3.5" Lift
Internal roll cage
Plated frame rails
NP231

Donor Jeep
1994 Cherokee
AX15 with external slave
NP231
4.0

I completed the swap using all parts for the 1994 model year. The clutch from the donor Jeep looked perfect and fresh but I replaced it with a clutch from Autozone. I reused the flywheel as it looked fresh too. Greased and replaced pilot and thowout bearings. Clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder is a new one piece sealed unit from http://www.jeep4x4center.com/clutch-master-slave-cylinder-kit-4-or-6-cyl-52104110.html. I also used the clutch pedal from from the 94 Jeep by rotating the pivot arm forward and rewelding it.

Now to the issues. The clutch disengages a little closer to the floor than is comfortable to drive but does work. However, the clutch only disengages properly for a few miles untill things warm up and then it begins to get hard to get into 1st -4th, grinds going into 5th but does go in. With the clutch fully pressed, you can hear the tranny spinning and am unable to go into reverse. Again, all is well for the first few miles and can get into reverse with no issues.

Also, while in neutral, clutch out, there is a slightly annoying warbling whine that increases in amplitude with light pressure on the clutch then gets quiet when the clutch is pressed further. After, gettting out of the car from testing there is hot smell, maybe like clutch but not sure.

I am going to pull the tranny tomorrow and visually inspect everything. I will replace the pivot point on the clutch fork to help with the low engagement but am stumped on the issues when warm.

Thanks for letting me pick your brains.

Ken
Hello,
I have been lurking on forums for years but this is my first post. After haveing my first AW4 fail I replaced it with another and converted to 4x4 at the same time. 50 thousand miles later that tranny began to show signs of distress and I bit the bullet and bought a complete donor vehicle with an ax15 for the conversion.
Specs:

My Jeep
1998 Cherokee 4 door
4.0 six
3.5" Lift
Internal roll cage
Plated frame rails
NP231

Donor Jeep
1994 Cherokee
AX15 with external slave
NP231
4.0

I completed the swap using all parts for the 1994 model year. The clutch from the donor Jeep looked perfect and fresh but I replaced it with a clutch from Autozone. I reused the flywheel as it looked fresh too. Greased and replaced pilot and thowout bearings. Clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder is a new one piece sealed unit from http://www.jeep4x4center.com/clutch-master-slave-cylinder-kit-4-or-6-cyl-52104110.html. I also used the clutch pedal from from the 94 Jeep by rotating the pivot arm forward and rewelding it.

Now to the issues. The clutch disengages a little closer to the floor than is comfortable to drive but does work. However, the clutch only disengages properly for a few miles untill things warm up and then it begins to get hard to get into 1st -4th, grinds going into 5th but does go in. With the clutch fully pressed, you can hear the tranny spinning and am unable to go into reverse. Again, all is well for the first few miles and can get into reverse with no issues.

Also, while in neutral, clutch out, there is a slightly annoying warbling whine that increases in amplitude with light pressure on the clutch then gets quiet when the clutch is pressed further. After, gettting out of the car from testing there is hot smell, maybe like clutch but not sure.

I am going to pull the tranny tomorrow and visually inspect everything. I will replace the pivot point on the clutch fork to help with the low engagement but am stumped on the issues when warm.

Thanks for letting me pick your brains.

Ken


Hello,
I have been lurking on forums for years but this is my first post. After haveing my first AW4 fail I replaced it with another and converted to 4x4 at the same time. 50 thousand miles later that tranny began to show signs of distress and I bit the bullet and bought a complete donor vehicle with an ax15 for the conversion.
Specs:

My Jeep
1998 Cherokee 4 door
4.0 six
3.5" Lift
Internal roll cage
Plated frame rails
NP231

Donor Jeep
1994 Cherokee
AX15 with external slave
NP231
4.0

I completed the swap using all parts for the 1994 model year. The clutch from the donor Jeep looked perfect and fresh but I replaced it with a clutch from Autozone. I reused the flywheel as it looked fresh too. Greased and replaced pilot and thowout bearings. Clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder is a new one piece sealed unit from http://www.jeep4x4center.com/clutch-master-slave-cylinder-kit-4-or-6-cyl-52104110.html. I also used the clutch pedal from from the 94 Jeep by rotating the pivot arm forward and rewelding it.

Now to the issues. The clutch disengages a little closer to the floor than is comfortable to drive but does work. However, the clutch only disengages properly for a few miles untill things warm up and then it begins to get hard to get into 1st -4th, grinds going into 5th but does go in. With the clutch fully pressed, you can hear the tranny spinning and am unable to go into reverse. Again, all is well for the first few miles and can get into reverse with no issues.

Also, while in neutral, clutch out, there is a slightly annoying warbling whine that increases in amplitude with light pressure on the clutch then gets quiet when the clutch is pressed further. After, gettting out of the car from testing there is hot smell, maybe like clutch but not sure.

I am going to pull the tranny tomorrow and visually inspect everything. I will replace the pivot point on the clutch fork to help with the low engagement but am stumped on the issues when warm.

Thanks for letting me pick your brains.

Ken

Just curious if you ever resolved this?

Sounds like the throw-out bearing is running against the diaphram fingers all the time. Might be incorrectly installed or could be a bad clutch fork. Make sure the pivot relocation allows the master cylinder piston to run full-stroke.

Sounds like the throw-out bearing is running against the diaphram fingers all the time. Might be incorrectly installed or could be a bad clutch fork. Make sure the pivot relocation allows the master cylinder piston to run full-stroke.

I had similar issue when I replaced the clutch and resurfaced the flywheel. I didnt want to drop the trans again so I made alittle longer (~1/8-1/4") pushrod for the slave and it helped move the engagement spot away from the floor. If you drop the trans you can adjust the clutch fork pivot ball in the bellhousing.

Edit: i found this out by my new slave going out from pushing it to the end of its stroke

I used a Howe master cylinder with a slightly bigger bore and made an adjustable linkage. A search should yield the links.