Spudderin'....

My check engine light has been on for a while and it was tellin' me "evap leak". I thought I fixed it by changing a couple of the hoses that come off the side of the motor. Light didn't come on until about a week later. So that was not it. The check engine light was on but the Jeep was running ok until last night.

For those of you who have had the "vapor lock heat soak" issue happen you will know what I mean when I say it feels like that constantly now. When I hit the gas it spudders BIG TIME and feels like it's going to cut out. It is idling ROUGH and the whole Jeep is shaking.

Oh and the Check Engine Light is now blinking..... Awesome right? haha

Anways - I am taking it to a mechanic on Monday and I thought I would get some thoughts from you guys before hand.


Thanks

Mark

I'm having the same problem on my 97 on cold starts after I start driving...

Lemme further explain The jeep was running fine until last night and now it won't stop. Almost like a clogged injector or not enough air being pulled in. Hopefully it won't cost me too much - haha

Common causes that could cause your symptoms are:

Clogged Cat
Bad TPS (did you wash the engine recently?)
Bad MAP or leak in line to MAP.
Bad coil (not that common)
Bad CPS. (not that common but it happened to me this year)
Clogged fuel filter (more common on Renix) / fuel pump problem


I recommend running a can of BG44K every 10k miles on every vehicle. If you have a clogged injector, it should clean up quick.

THANKS!!! I should hav mentioned it's a 2001 with 115k. I replaced the CPS at 70k so I am pretty sure it's not that. We'll se tomorrow andI will report back.....

My 00XJ that is a distriborless engine would run fine and then start sputtering. Sometimes it sounded like it was gasping for air and other times starving for fuel. The code was P0193(?) that could be either a CPS or the cam sensor. Tested CPS and all was good. When I went to test the cam sensor, for 0-5VDC output I saw the sensor drive was warbling. The hold down plate was tight but the sensor drive was moving. I pulled the sensor drive out * and I could not turn the shaft by hand.

The shaft from a dealer is $300 + an additional $70 for the sensor.
From NAPA $59 including the sensor.

The engine shouldn't have run, but it did, Weirdest thing but when I first encountered the problem I was thinking fuel issue.


* before pulling the sensor shaft out bring the engine to TDC so when reinstalling the engine timing is sequenced correctly.
The Cam Sensor retaining screws require a 7/32" socket
When pulling the drive it will rotate counter clockwise, when you reinstall try and start the clockwise insert from the same point so the oil pump drive slot lines up.
Squirt engime oil into the hole on the side until oil runds down the shaft past the gear.
Lube the gear with assembly lubee or grease to prevent damaging the gear face of the cam or the sensor drive.

Shop called - Evap issue was a cracked hose and a hose that was loose at the bottom of the motor. The spuddering was bad plugs and the coil pack is toast. He said #5 & 6 had barely any spark and the plugs are done.

Picking it up in the morning and I will keep ya'all posted. Wasn't toomuch either so I'm stoked it's done