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93XJ w/ AX-15 and SYE - cheap rear driveshaft?

T

themangeraaad

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Halifax, MA
So I did some searching and apparently I'm off today...

I know that most people can use a XJ front driveshaft in place of the rear driveshaft after installing a SYE, however you can only do so if your Jeep has an auto transmission (because of the shorter length of the AX-15)...

...On the other hand I seem to recall reading somewhere that a ZJ front driveshaft is a little longer than the auto XJ front shaft and may work with an AX-15 equipped XJ. Is there any truth to this?

In any case: has anyone found a cheap alternative to buying a custom driveshaft for those of us with an AX-15?
 
themangeraaad said:
...On the other hand I seem to recall reading somewhere that a ZJ front driveshaft is a little longer than the auto XJ front shaft and may work with an AX-15 equipped XJ. Is there any truth to this?
Click to expand...

Yup :) IIRC it's about 36"
 
I think it's a V8 ZJ front shaft but I don't recall.
 
The stock driveshaft for an AX15 is half an inch longer than the stock driveshaft for an AW4 (all other variables being equal). You should be able to use a front driveshaft from an auto, although it will be extended another half an inch.
 
auto front shaft wont work, i have an 88 that i swapped an ax15 and 231 into. but i also have an 8.8, and flange drive so it was closer than d35 or chry 8.25 but still wont work
 
what year 231, and did you do a hack n tap or a real SYE? With a hack n tap you are going to end up with a somewhat different output shaft length depending on whether it's a 95- or 96+ case.

I would get everything ready to roll and measure before doing anything else honestly. Aim for too long over too short, you can always shorten it down.
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
'93-'95 grand with an auto, and V8 should be what you want. has the same U-joints. those years specific, because after that is they went with a CV joint instead of a double cardan. that info is according to this PDF:
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J321-CV.PDF

personally, id install and measure first. you might be able to get away with an auto front shaft.
Click to expand...


I didn't know about the 93-95' ZJ V8s using a double cardan instead of a CV joint front driveshaft. I bought 2 pairs of 93-95' ZJ leather seats from a guy who was parting the 2 ZJs hopefully he still has them so I can get those driveshafts and put them in my 2 98' 5.9L ZJs. :spin1:

I miss having a XJ built up and with a SYE on the 231 so I just needed to run a stock front driveshaft in the back and 1 spare to use front or rear...gave me good peace of mind on the trail eventhough I never broke anything. :cool:
Troy
 
Big Red said:
I didn't know about the 93-95' ZJ V8s using a double cardan instead of a CV joint front driveshaft. I bought 2 pairs of 93-95' ZJ leather seats from a guy who was parting the 2 ZJs hopefully he still has them so I can get those driveshafts and put them in my 2 98' 5.9L ZJs. :spin1:

I miss having a XJ built up and with a SYE on the 231 so I just needed to run a stock front driveshaft in the back and 1 spare to use front or rear...gave me good peace of mind on the trail eventhough I never broke anything. :cool:
Troy
Click to expand...
your terminology is a bit off - a double cardan IS a CV joint. The ball and cup style CV joint is another kind. The 93-95s have a CV/double cardan at the transfer case end and a regular single cardan (just a u-joint) at the axle pinion end, while the later ZJs and WJs have a CV/double cardan at the transfer case end and a ball+cup style CV joint at the axle pinion end.
 
a constant velocity joint is a specific thing

Simple_CV_Joint_animated.gif


a double cardan serves the same purpose but it is not a cv joint
 
kastein said:
I think it's a V8 ZJ front shaft but I don't recall.
Click to expand...
That's what I thought, I just neglected to mention the "V8" part in my original post for some reason :thumbup:

ehall said:
The stock driveshaft for an AX15 is half an inch longer than the stock driveshaft for an AW4 (all other variables being equal). You should be able to use a front driveshaft from an auto, although it will be extended another half an inch.
Click to expand...
I thought they were pretty close but heard multiple times that the AW4 one wouldn't work. Figured I'd just skip even trying an AW4 one and get one from a ZJ, as Ken mentioned better to aim for too long so if I'm buying one anyway I'll just buy the longer one

stroked88 said:
auto front shaft wont work, i have an 88 that i swapped an ax15 and 231 into. but i also have an 8.8, and flange drive so it was closer than d35 or chry 8.25 but still wont work
Click to expand...
The 9" in the rear of my rig is yoke style and I THINK it's fairly close to the same size as a 8.25, but I'll still aim for the longer shaft to avoid any trouble.

kastein said:
that is one kind of CV joint (an Rzeppa CV joint to be specific), a double cardan is another. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Constant-velocity_joint#Double_Cardan
Click to expand...

ehall said:
you just edited that into wiki, didn't you
Click to expand...
:roflmao: I wouldn't put it past him but the double cardigan entry was there long before today... unless he had some great planning on this one and has been waiting for months to use it :eyes:
 
i have the AA sye, the year of the 231 shouldnt matter since the tailhousing is different but gets replaced :dunno: i know that the auto front shaft i got from an xj i parted was about an 1" too short
 
ehall said:
you just edited that into wiki, didn't you
Click to expand...
nope :laugh2:

stroked88 said:
i have the AA sye, the year of the 231 shouldnt matter since the tailhousing is different but gets replaced :dunno: i know that the auto front shaft i got from an xj i parted was about an 1" too short
Click to expand...
I was asking Scott (themangeraaad) since he's the one who needs the driveshaft to fit. And yeah, with an SYE it doesn't matter which is why I asked.
 
kastein said:
I was asking Scott (themangeraaad) since he's the one who needs the driveshaft to fit. And yeah, with an SYE it doesn't matter which is why I asked.
Click to expand...

Well to answer your question which I completely skipped over earlier... I think it's a real SYE (haven't looked at it in a while) and I'm pretty sure it's on an older 231 but idk for sure. I bought the T-case w/ SYE off Billy last year and have just kept putting off installing it since I'm too lazy to shim my axle. Figure when I swap the AX-15 in the next week or two I might as well install the SYE at the same time so I'm trying to prep for that.

And might as well go from "too lazy to shim" to "screw it, cut the perches and weld them back on", right? Right now I'm just debating whether I should try and salvage the old spring perches, order some, or make my own. Will probably end up with option 1 or option 3.
 
I'd go for ordering some, ruffstuff has them for fairly cheap. I've never had salvaging them turn out very well and making them quickly turns into not getting around to doing it at all.
 
kastein said:
and making them quickly turns into not getting around to doing it at all.
Click to expand...
I'll pull the same strategy I'm using on my steering... just cut/drill it enough that I can't go back, therefore I have no option but to press forward with the project.

Bonus points if the Jeep is parked in an inconvenient location and I have to get the work done ASAP.

I think that if I can get to the Turner steel and pick up some scrap sooner than later I'll try to make my own but if not I'll just order them.

Thinking about it I have to get those shackle relocation brackets installed before setting the axle up for an SYE... this just keeps getting more complicated. I should quit this project and give up all hope on my Jeep for another 6 months. :laugh3:
 
I know how that goes, swapping my MJ to 4wd turned into 4wd, 5spd, new motor, locker, lift, and a new rear axle all at the same time. Fortunately I had to have it ready to drive again within a few weeks so I was strongly motivated to finish.
 
I used a V8 ZJ front shaft in the rear when I put in my sye and 8.8 in the back. I bought it off ebay for around 40 bucks. I believe it was 32.5" long fully collapsed. At ride height it is about 3/4" more extended then it would have been stock, but the splines stay fully engaged at full droop, and it doesnt bottom out at full stuff.
'99, Ax-15, 231 w/ AA SYE, 8.8, 4.5" w/ shackle relocation brackets
 
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