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pro comp shocks

ruger81

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Battle Ground WA
So I found the right length at 4wp. Now I need some feed back. The gas filled vs the hydro's. They are really close in price. About 5 bucks different
my question is gas or hydro... some info wheel and tire package around 100lbs a peice. Winch. I want a firm but not stiff ride. Never ran pro comp shocks before
 
pro comp, sky jacker, rustys.. I've had them all.. they all ride about the same.. Not too bad.. just stay far away from rough country shocks.. i hated those..

For what it's worth tho, if you can spare the dough.. the bilsteins are nice.. for my rig, i should of went with the 360/80 valving over the 255/70 but i still say they were one of the best purchases i've made for the jeep..
 
pro comp, sky jacker, rustys.. I've had them all.. they all ride about the same.. Not too bad.. just stay far away from rough country shocks.. i hated those..

For what it's worth tho, if you can spare the dough.. the bilsteins are nice.. for my rig, i should of went with the 360/80 valving over the 255/70 but i still say they were one of the best purchases i've made for the jeep..

X 2

I have the 10" travel 5150's 255/70"s front and rears now. If I had known before what I know now, I would have bought 7100 series 12" travel short body fronts with 360/80 valving and 255/70 rear.

Dave


Sent from my butt since that's what I talk out of most the time!
 
I am also in the process of picking shocks....trying to decide between Bilsteins or Fox.
Hydro or Nitro? Definetly Nitro....just my $.02

Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL using Tapatalk
 
You can get just about any shock in the lengths that you should need with the lift you have except for maybe OME shocks.

Lets get back to the basics to start with:
1. Pull your current shocks and measure the new shocks length at full bump and at full travel on the truck where the shocks are going to mount.
2. Make sure that your new shocks compressed length is shorter than your full bump measurement (you don't want to use your new shocks as a bump stop it will destroy them).

Save up your pennies and by the bilsteins, they are WELL worth the money. IF you have a heavy rig and or spend time at speed on the trail consider the remote resevoirs if not, just get the normal silver bodies (5125's 50's ? I believe)

You will eventually regret any less brand/quality shock.

The difference between a standard body bilstein or OME vs the large bodied fox, and others is not as significant as the typical gas or nitro charged shocks vs. the Bilstein or OME. There is a reason for them on particular applications but not as prevelant in the typical Daily Driver/Weekend Warrior.

Michael
 
I've got RE monotubes and love them. But I did notice one starting to leak the other day when I washed it. But thats understandable with how she's been treated the last couple years.
 
You can get just about any shock in the lengths that you should need with the lift you have except for maybe OME shocks.

Lets get back to the basics to start with:
1. Pull your current shocks and measure the new shocks length at full bump and at full travel on the truck where the shocks are going to mount.
2. Make sure that your new shocks compressed length is shorter than your full bump measurement (you don't want to use your new shocks as a bump stop it will destroy them).

Save up your pennies and by the bilsteins, they are WELL worth the money. IF you have a heavy rig and or spend time at speed on the trail consider the remote resevoirs if not, just get the normal silver bodies (5125's 50's ? I believe)

You will eventually regret any less brand/quality shock.
I understand your comments but maybe the topic at hand will help you. Im not in the market for bilstiens right now I am going to by pro comps. So with that said thanks for your advice. I will adventually buy some foa's or fox....


The difference between a standard body bilstein or OME vs the large bodied fox, and others is not as significant as the typical gas or nitro charged shocks vs. the Bilstein or OME. There is a reason for them on particular applications but not as prevelant in the typical Daily Driver/Weekend Warrior.

Michael
 
You can get just about any shock in the lengths that you should need with the lift you have except for maybe OME shocks.

Lets get back to the basics to start with:
1. Pull your current shocks and measure the new shocks length at full bump and at full travel on the truck where the shocks are going to mount.
2. Make sure that your new shocks compressed length is shorter than your full bump measurement (you don't want to use your new shocks as a bump stop it will destroy them).

Save up your pennies and by the bilsteins, they are WELL worth the money. IF you have a heavy rig and or spend time at speed on the trail consider the remote resevoirs if not, just get the normal silver bodies (5125's 50's ? I believe)

You will eventually regret any less brand/quality shock.

Thank your for the schooling... I didn't need lol

The difference between a standard body bilstein or OME vs the large bodied fox, and others is not as significant as the typical gas or nitro charged shocks vs. the Bilstein or OME. There is a reason for them on particular applications but not as prevelant in the typical Daily Driver/Weekend Warrior.

Michael
 
I appologize for the schooling if you didn't believe it was necessary.

I'll keep the rest of my input to myself.

Michael
 
I found your post to be very respectful, and informational.. :cheers:

Its not that his post wasn't respectful or informational at all I thought it was very informative. Its the fact that I asked a specific question and wanted input on that.. not a schooling on shock are not bump stops or that I need to measure what's on there now. The shocks knave now are to short that's the reason for needing new ones
 
As a reader of any thread, not just this one, we have to make some assumptions to provide the best information with several things in mind.

In this case. I read your "specific" question, and the information in the bottom of your signature. I made some assumptions and posted what I thought to be an educated response to your post. I also made the assumption (that in retrospect maybe I should not have) that IF you had understood all of the information that I provided, you probably wouldn't need to ask a relatively basic question comparing gas/nitrogen charged shocks.

Here are a few other things to consider (at least what I try to consider when posting):

1. These forums are very useful for not only the posting party but also others that read it and or search for information later.
2. With a heavy wheel/tire combo (you specifically pointed out) a typical gas/nitrogen charged shock (not monotube) will fade quickly and not provide an adaquate level of dampening consistently.
3. With your lift you should have NO problem getting a Bilstein to fit.
4. Many people post questions when they don't really know what they are asking for.
5. I usually error on the side of providing too much information rather than a simple answer so that people can understand why I answered the way I have, or what my experience is, etc. It usually helps to understand "how" to take the answer.

Not trying to be an A$$! I have been around here for a LONG time and I am only trying to provide my experience to others in a helpful way. Not everyone likes the way I do it :cheers:

If I was looking for a cheep, temporary shock for a truck and was picking between the gas and nitrogen I would pick the Nitrogen (it wouldn't even be a question in my book).

Michael
 
As a reader of any thread, not just this one, we have to make some assumptions to provide the best information with several things in mind.

In this case. I read your "specific" question, and the information in the bottom of your signature. I made some assumptions and posted what I thought to be an educated response to your post. I also made the assumption (that in retrospect maybe I should not have) that IF you had understood all of the information that I provided, you probably wouldn't need to ask a relatively basic question comparing gas/nitrogen charged shocks.

Here are a few other things to consider (at least what I try to consider when posting):

1. These forums are very useful for not only the posting party but also others that read it and or search for information later.
2. With a heavy wheel/tire combo (you specifically pointed out) a typical gas/nitrogen charged shock (not monotube) will fade quickly and not provide an adaquate level of dampening consistently.
3. With your lift you should have NO problem getting a Bilstein to fit.
4. Many people post questions when they don't really know what they are asking for.
5. I usually error on the side of providing too much information rather than a simple answer so that people can understand why I answered the way I have, or what my experience is, etc. It usually helps to understand "how" to take the answer.

Not trying to be an A$$! I have been around here for a LONG time and I am only trying to provide my experience to others in a helpful way. Not everyone likes the way I do it :cheers:

If I was looking for a cheep, temporary shock for a truck and was picking between the gas and nitrogen I would pick the Nitrogen (it wouldn't even be a question in my book).

Michael
well said understood and cheap nitrogen shocks ordered... 84$ a 4wp.. I will in do time buy me some bilstiens but think foa or fox all figure that out when I get there.. thanks again Michael sorry for the snappy reply's

Chad
 
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