• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

XJ Braking problem

Brandon77

Member# 3846
NAXJA Member
Location
Lake Forest, CA
So I just recently put a new low mileage engine in my 1989 Cherokee Limited. I drove it for the first time and it is equipped with ABS brakes. My problem is the brakes don’t seem to be working properly. I have to put full force on the brake pedal to stop it; and I can’t lock or engage the ABS brakes. There is a huge master cylinder on the jeep but no brake booster. There is just some black ball that looks like a booster but no vacuum hoses go to it.
Anyone know the solution to fixing this problem?
I have a junkyard master cylinder and booster at home but want to get some feed back before I rip out the brake system and replace it.
Thanks
 
Thanks man... but why gas pedal? Not brake pedal?
 
you should take the brake pedal assembly not the gas pedal. I'm sure that's what he meant to type. It just unbolts from the underside of the steering column and will bolt right in with no mods into your jeep. Taking the brake pedal assembly along with the booster and master cylinder allows you to bolt it in without modifying the pedal rod or the pedal itself.

Since you have ABS take the proportional valve as well from the donor rig, and eliminate the entire ABS system from your jeep. It's a terrible design that is very prone to failure and very expensive to repair or replace... and even when it does work it doesn't work very well.
 
Exactly what Grimm said. I has the dumbz and cant brain today.

+1 on the prop valve. I didnt need to use another one but its always good to have a spare at least.
 
do this swap as soon as possible. as for the prop valve- you can re-use the one you have, but if you are getting a junk yard 95/96 master and booster, you may as well get the prop valve at the same time.(and dont forget the pedal assembly) this will also get you the short (hard to make/bend) lines that go from the master to the prop valve. when at the yard, just cut the hard lines that are going to the prop valve at all ports. you will need the fittings and have them reinstalled to your wheel cylinder lines as they are differant. you will also need a double flaring tool to do this process. (which reminds me, i need to fix my double flare tool as it broke when doing "TheLaredo's" swap) . get it all together and bleed the system. you will need atleast one full bottle (liter) of brake fluid to completely flush and fill the system. the 95/96 double booster will be a huge differance in your braking. you will love the swap, and be much safer.
 
Ok awesome. Thank for the feedback everyone.
I will rent the tool to make me some new lines and fittings. I have a booster and master cylinder from a newer Cherokee in the garage. Just need the proportioning valve and brake pedal. So i will ditch the stupid ABS all together and hope all works well. Should be starting this project next weekend.
 
I did mine a few months after getting my XJ back in 06. Could figure out why the braking sucked and had a constant abs light. The buzzing from the compressor also drove me nuts! Still works great. Best Renix upgrade I've done other than the open coolant system.
 
Nice. I did the open coolant conversion too as well; But yeah hoping this swap will fix the brakes. They work... just with a lot of force. I hope to find the time to do this soon. I have most of the parts... just need a newer brake pedal.
Any heads up I should know before i tear down the brake system?
 
It appears that you have the funky high-pressure system. There are a few in the junk yard, and nobody seems to know too much about them. I've seen references to it in passing, but no answers.
 
Back
Top