LCA Bushing Motor Mounts

Hey ... I want to fab some motor mounts from OEM LCA rubber bushings. Similar to MORE mounts or Rusty's mounts -- they both use LCA rubber bushings.

Here is a pic of what I want to make:



The problem is I can't find a tube to press the bushings into. The outer diameter on the LCA bushing is 57 mm (2.244 inches). I measured that with a caliper and confirmed it with Moog tech support.

But ... it's hard to find a tube that will accept that bushing. I've looked at tubing, plumbing pipe, and exhaust pipe. If I go with commonly available tubing, options are:

- 2.5" OD - 0.250 wall - 2.000" ID
- 2.5" OD - 0.120 wall - 2.260" ID
- 2.5" OD - 0.095 wall - 2.310" ID
- 2.75" OD - 0.25" wall - 2.250" ID

Metric sizes are much harder to find.

The closest size is the last one with 2.250" ID. But that will be too big, right? 0.006" of slop is definitely not a press fit. And 2.000" is too small, right? Remember, the bushings already have a metal sleeve on them. Rusty's and MORE both keep that metal sleeve on the outside of the LCA bushing. The other sizes are too large.

Any ideas? I'd like to buy some off-the shelf stuff for this. Anybody else ever made LCA bushing motor mounts? Anybody ever measured the ID of the receiver tube on a MORE or Rusty Mount?

Thanks.

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...and thats why M.O.R.E deserves the money, they either
1) source a crazy size tubing to fit... or
2) machine something to fit...

its not so easy eh? making 2 will probably not be worth your time once you outsource the machining... if you did a 6' or even 20' stick of tube like M.O.R.E. probably does.... then it'd drive the price down.

the ones you posted must be old skool, mine are zinc plated, and look good as new some 4-5 years later.

Mountain OffRoad uses a different durometer rubber than what is used for factory control arm bushings....
I have had a set of MORE motor mounts for almost 10 years and while they do transmit some vibrations they have been performed well and have far outlasted the factory motor mounts.

You can search under my name for better #'s,but IIRC correctly its seamless 2-5/8"x.166 wall and it still needs machined for the step in the bushings.I bought a bunch of it from Modesto Steel in CA.

Poly has a sleeve/bushing that should do the trick for you

part #PPM-4302
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Synergy-Suspension-Bushing-Kit-p-16605.html

I just cut off the control arm ends and welded them to the stock base plate and has held up for over 7 years and 80K miles. More vibrations translated to the cabin, yes. Ghetto fab, yes. Since I had recently replaced the stock arms with Moog and within a year got inchitis, made sense to me since they were just laying around add a few large washers and a coat of paint and done.:rof:
After having to replace the stock style almost yearly from replacements from Oreilly's(KarPro at the time) and AutoZone, for several years straight, I was glad to not have to mess with this again and focus on other issues like SYE and steering.

XJRob said:

I just cut off the control arm ends and welded them to the stock base plate and has held up for over 7 years and 80K miles.

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I've been thinking about that too ... it just seems that the stock CA ends are kind of thin metal. They could probably be reinforced in some way.

Do you have any pics?

XJRob said:

More vibrations translated to the cabin, yes.

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Did you use stock style rubber bushings? Or the Moog problem solver poly bushings? I've heard the rubber LCA bushings are almost as smooth as stock motor mounts

XJRob said:

After having to replace the stock style almost yearly from replacements from Oreilly's(KarPro at the time) and AutoZone, for several years straight, I was glad to not have to mess with this again.

Click to expand...

Amen to that ... I'm sick of replacing them. I live on a washboard dirt road miles from the nearest pavement. I also drive pretty fast on old abandoned logging trails here in Montana, and on washed out ruts in the desert in Baja. The crap OEM mounts don't last worth a damn. I want something more durable, but not harsh like polyurethane. I also prefer to make things ... not to save money, but just to do it. It builds skill and experience, and makes the rig truly yours ... even if it is ghetto fab. Anybody can buy manufactured mounts, bolt them on, and brag about how shiny they are 5 years later. But making your own--even for a small project like this--has it's own rewards.

Thanks.

I was also thinking about ripping out all of the torn OEM rubber inside the triangular 2-piece metal housing, and cutting 3 hockey pucks to fit inside. Then drilling through the pucks and inserting the stock metal sleeve for the cross bolt. That would definitely work, but would harsh your ride pretty seriously. Hockey pucks are extremely stiff. It would be the same as the 88A-grade poly bushings commonly used in Poly motor mounts.

Did you miss the link I sent you. instead of doing a bunch of booty fab junk with hockey pucks and trianglular housing, why not spend the 40 bucks on polys set up and then add a baseplate.

Im all for being creative and being able to save a little money. but even building the right way would cost less than 60-70 bucks

wishihad1 said:

Did you miss the link I sent you. instead of doing a bunch of booty fab junk with hockey pucks and trianglular housing, why not spend the 40 bucks on polys set up and then add a baseplate.

Im all for being creative and being able to save a little money. but even building the right way would cost less than 60-70 bucks

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Wow ... didn't mean to upset you so much. Yes ... I did get your link, and I am interested in their sleeve that accepts stock LCA bushings. That is one of many good options, and I thank you for posting it.

By "triangular housing," I was simply referring to the OEM motor mounts with the stock rubber pulled out. Hockey pucks properly cut to fit that would be a very solid and reliable solution -- equal to any poly mount on the market. I'd be doing that right now if it wasn't such a stiff solution.

And about the money ... I don't care one little bit about the money ... I can buy whatever right now if I choose, but I'm more interested in coming up with some combination of my own efforts. It would be a lot easier and cheaper to just run out and buy a jeep that's already built up, but I enjoy the process of design, experimentation, and building. If that approach upsets you in any way, you might be a happier camper if you ignore this thread.

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RCP Phx said:

You can search under my name for better #'s,but IIRC correctly its seamless 2-5/8"x.166 wall and it still needs machined for the step in the bushings.I bought a bunch of it from Modesto Steel in CA.

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Thanks ... I did the search and found what you are talking about ... it's 2.625 x 0.188. All the companies who offer pre-made sleeves (including Poly Performance) use that size.

But what I don't understand is this: 2.625 x 0.188 yields an ID of 2.249, which is a little bit *larger* than the 2.244 OD of the LCA bushing. I'm guessing they get the press fit from the machined area inside the tubing ... the part that takes the fatter end of the bushing. Does that sound right to you?

I tried a few different ways to make engine mounts using the stock mounts and modifying them. While these were very strong designs they took too much time to modify. In the end I found it best to build them from scratch and use poly busings with holes drilled through them to soften them up a bit.

jeeperjohn said:

poly bushings with holes drilled through them to soften them up a bit.

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Good idea ... I never thought of that. Thanks.

And one other thing ... If I were going to buy some pre-made mounts that didn't use LCA bushings, I would go with Brown Dog. I've had some good email conversations with them, and I'm very impressed with their products and service. They have *earned* their excellent reputation. I might still just get one of theirs, but it's more fun to make your own.

Thanks to all, and keep the ideas coming.

Did you try www.mcmaster.com? They have all sorts of hardware, tubing, bolts, nuts, etc..the whole nine yards.

What about OEM rear leaf spring bushings? Maybe they have a easier-to-find outer diameter?

muddeprived said:

What about OEM rear leaf spring bushings? Maybe they have a easier-to-find outer diameter?

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Good thinking. The front bushings look like they would work well.