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How do I pull out my transfer case?
- Thread starter 90Pioneer
- Start date
Gear wrenches, aka ratcheting box end wrenches. The shorty version will be a good thing. You won't have enough room to get a socket over the nuts, and a couple of the nuts will be only a 1 tooth swing on the gear wrench.
Otherwise, block the XJ, pull the driveshafts, pop the shifter link out, disconnect the 4wd indicator and breather hose. You may find it beneficial to let the cross member drop to get extra room for the top 2 fasteners, be careful that you don't run your fan into the radiator.
Otherwise, block the XJ, pull the driveshafts, pop the shifter link out, disconnect the 4wd indicator and breather hose. You may find it beneficial to let the cross member drop to get extra room for the top 2 fasteners, be careful that you don't run your fan into the radiator.
xcm
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Southern Oregon
the transfer case on xj/mj/many other vehicles, is attached to the rear of the trans with 6 bolts evenly spaced around the ring. one of these is usually a bitch to get to, as it resides behind the shifter linkage bracketry... a wratcheting wrench might help. did for me.
obviously youve gotta pull the drive shafts... so chocking the wheels and doing this job on level ground is crucial as well.
also have to disconnect the speedometer sensor on the transfercase..... but a 96 isnt mechanical like my renix, so thats easy.
obviously youve gotta pull the drive shafts... so chocking the wheels and doing this job on level ground is crucial as well.
also have to disconnect the speedometer sensor on the transfercase..... but a 96 isnt mechanical like my renix, so thats easy.
The transfer case is [mostly] sealed. You might lose fluid out the rear output if you don't have an SYE (don't remember about your particular year.)
Transmission? I didn't drain my AX15 when I swapped transfer cases 10 years ago, don't know about an AW4.
Transmission? I didn't drain my AX15 when I swapped transfer cases 10 years ago, don't know about an AW4.
xcm
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Southern Oregon
they are seperate fluid reserves (same TYPE of fluid, but differant systems).
edit: jeff beat me to it, and remembered about the slip yoke. i think 96 is sealed though, if not, just keep the yoke taped to the case to seal it, or a rag.
most importantly, watch that breather. it'll douche fluid ALL OVER.
edit: jeff beat me to it, and remembered about the slip yoke. i think 96 is sealed though, if not, just keep the yoke taped to the case to seal it, or a rag.
most importantly, watch that breather. it'll douche fluid ALL OVER.
KRAKER
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- where blank stares are normal
An AW4 will spill a lil bit
Renegade XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- corona ca
I would recommend draining the fluid of the t-case before removing it. It's much easier draining it while still attached then when on the floor. Also makes it lighter to remove and less of a mess when comming off invade it tilts on you. The trans will be fine, might drip a drop or two depending on the angle you have it. My experience has been that once you break the t-case bolts lose they usually come off by hand. Also always leave one nut on (that is easy to get to) lose, you don't want to be struggling with that last bolt up Ontop and then the t-case falls on your face.
- Location
- San Diego
i would drain the t-case just so its lighter and easier to move as well as being less messy when you do open it up. just be sure you disconnect everything before you remove the nuts. i disconnected the linkage before trying to get the nut behind it. i also removed the crossmember so that i could lower the drivetrain enough to be able to get to the top bolts easily. one last thing, if youre removing it by hand, without a jack or anything, i would put a piece of cardboard on your chest to set the t-case on. it has some sharp edges. and the AW4 shouldnt leak. mine didnt spill anything out
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