1997 Cherokee Issues

i picked up my new 97 XJ today and the whole reason i bought it cause it was cheap, in good shape, and not running. we are trying to troubleshjoot the problems and have ran out of ideas. it will turn over and start to idle but its very hoggy and will die after a few seconds. we replaced the cam position sensor and nothing yet, could it be fuel presure? ECU? wiring?

thanks

Spark and fuel. Are you getting strong spark signal? Is the fuel pressure enough? Are the plug wires in the right firing order? Is it throwing any codes?

Sounds like a similar problem my buddy had on his XJ and we replaced a bunch of things but never solved the problem so we sent it to a shop and they ended up replacing the IAC. Try replacing that its not expensive and if it doesn't solve the problem take it back off anf return it.

My mom's 98 blazer (with the 4.3 V-6) was doing that pretty much. It would idle, but any gas at all and it would bog down and die. We disconnected the Mass Airflow sensor and it ran like a champ. Went down, bought her a new one and it was fine.

Knew of a Jetta doing something similar and it turned out that the catalytic converter had rotted, collapsed internally and was clogged. Neither were XJs but it's something.

has spark, getting fuel (i think), take forever to get it to start but will idle horribly for a few seconds then will die.

PDXGraham said:

has spark, getting fuel (i think), take forever to get it to start but will idle horribly for a few seconds then will die.

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Start with the basics.

For 1996+ Jeeps, the OBD-II engine computer (ECU/PCM) re-boots, and the idle settings are deleted, when you: (1) let the battery run down by leaving the lights or radio on, (2) disconnect the battery for an extended period of time, (3) when the battery goes bad and needs replacing, (4) when the alternator in not properly charging the battery, (5) or when poor battery connections result in a voltage drop at the PCM.

Your symptoms are: (1) having difficulties starting the engine without depressing the gas pedal, and (2) the engine will have a low idle and probably stall unless you keep your foot on the gas pedal. The ECU will relearn the idle settings after a short period of driving and the engine will start and idle normally.

Loose, corroded, or damaged battery cables or ground wires may also cause or contribute to the problem.

Begin with basic trouble shooting of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, and from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, scrape, and clean until shiny, the cable/wire ends, and whatever they bolt to. Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad connections, or poor grounds and the ECM/ECU may behave oddly until you remedy this.

If the symptoms reoccur, you need to have your battery and/or the alternator load tested at a repair shop or auto parts store. This is usually a free service they offer to bring in potential customers. Even with low battery voltage, the engine will start, but the ECU can re-boot multiple times and a new battery may be required.

Cleaning the Idle Air Controller (IAC), regular tune-ups, and using fuel injector cleaner should be part of your routine preventative maintenance.

+1 on the Battery/ Cables

I Just replaced the battery in my 97... Last week , started up ran a few seconds and died, tried again and same result. It would stay running as long as i gave it some throttle. Pulled out the volt meter only had 10 volts.New battery= back to normal

could it be a relay/wiring? i heard 97's are plauged with wiring gremlins or it that just a over exageration?

PDXGraham said:

could it be a relay/wiring?

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Just as the Battery, alternator, and the starter can and should be tested, the relays and wires can also be tested.

It could be the Di-Lithium Crystals or the Flux Capacitor, but you won't know until you test for proper functioning.

I've had my 97 since Jan 02, and despite all that I've read about the changeover year being a basket case, it's actually been far more reliable than any other vehicle I've ever owned or driven.

Is the CEL on? Have you scanned it for codes?

no CEL codes, battery, starter, and alt are fine. still havent tried the fueld presure but the damn thing is pissing me off, i dont want it to be a money pit but i just cant figure out the problem it will start but run like absolute (sounds like its getting little or no fuel or is missing cylinders) shit and it has to be held at half throttle.

update

just checked fuel presure and its good, when the thing does manage to idle (badly) the tach jumps all ovber the place, i think its gotta be electrical or ignition

Just some ideas that pop into my head, someone will probably tell me why they don't make sense.

Bad ignition switch wiring can make it die without warning which also knocks the guages out - could it have any relation to this problem?

when you say "good" fuel pressure, what numbers are you getting?

What about distributor indexing? Could it cause all of these symptoms?

Agree with all of Tim_MN's notes on full battery voltage being supremely important, but he failed to mention that if you do swap the Flux Capacitor, don't get a Bosch. They're crap.

has about 20 psi when i cycle the key and has 40 psi on the horrible idle

CPS? Or you could be possibly be flooding. When you checked spark what the arc bright blue? I know there is a way to test the CPS and other sensors that may be giving you hell but someone else would have to chime in, my knowledge has only gotten me so far..

With the tach trippin out i would put my $$ on Crank Position Sensor, CPS.

So will it run if you hold the throttle open, or does it die after a few seconds regardless? For that matter, what are the specifics on this thing? Did it just suddenly quit running recently, has it been parked in a field since '98, has anyone pulled the distributor cap and rotor, checked the plugs and wires, put fresh gas in it, etc?

It will idle with the throttle held open but will die if let off, I thought if the crank sensor went out it wont even turn over

My TPS failed a few months back. No codes, but it was just about unbearable on the road; like it was going full throttle/no throttle every few seconds. A few minutes with an analog meter and the sensor disconnected showed a very obvious deadspot. One more thing to test.

here is the gypsy story on to how abouts i got this jeep

after i sold my last XJ back in march i have been looking for another truck or SUV cause its nice to have a good utility vehical and i just wanted another XJ, about a week ago i found this ad on CL for a red 97 XJ with 175k that didnt run for 1k. i get ahold of the guy and try to go look at it. after the first time i talked to him i never hear from him again. according to his ad he went to get it it one day and it wouldnt turn over. well luckily i got his addy from him before he dissapeared and wne tand looked at it. luckily it was at his parents house and they were happy to help in any way. i decided to buy it under the suspision that the nuetral saftey switch crapped out. i give the dad the money and we tow the XJ home. keep in mind that i still have not talked to the real owner of the jeep lol. but i got the title from his dad and everything is peachy now.

it sat for 2 months before i brought it home. i am really hoping to get her going caus i love 97+ XJ for their interior and best of all its red!! lol. i am still holding out hope and maybe it will be a simple fix i havent thought of yet.

'97's are junk. Worst jeeps ever.

Part it out and start over.

Can you tell I own a '97 and have seen my fair share of frustrations with mine? :shhh:

'97 XJ's don't have a "cam position sensor" so did you replace something in the distributor (Pick up coil/hall effect switch) or on the bellhousing (crank position sensor)?

And this'll sound goofy as all hell, but check your fuse block behind the pass. kick panel. Look for the fuse slot marked "F-10". This is an unused fuse slot, but there are a bunch of threads out there that call this the "miracle cure" fuse fix. Put a 15A fuse in that F-10 slot. Clear the computer's memory, then fire it up again and see if that helped...... it cured a '98 I was working on the other day that was running fine, but throwing codes left and right, none were remotely connected either.

To check your spark rythm, use an inductive timing light and put the wire lead on each wire as it's running/cranking. Ensure you're getting a rythmic spark pattern and no strobing or inconsistent spark signal.

The throttle position sensor is another sensor that can really wreak havoc. Also on the throttle body are the Idle Air Control and the MAP sensor. If you have a friend with another '97 XJ, see if you can borrow his complete throttle body and try to fire it up with the known to be good unit on yours. If it runs, you've narrowed it down to 3 sensors on the throttle body.

Yeah, you're gonna discover that the '97's have lots of stupid exclusive parts/pieces. Wiring connectors will be different for things like the MAP sensor, coil, and hall effect switch. The TCU (transmission control unit) is a '97 exclusive part, '96 won't work, '98 won't work.

The '97's can be pretty damn frustrating.