OEM-style replacements are easy to find at the chain auto parts stores.
The OEM track bar has a ball-stud fixed to one end that is non-serviceable. The bushing on the axle end would be a pain to replace, if you'd probably have to do some digging to find a replacement bushing. I would just buy the whole shootin' match and be done with it (want to say I paid in the range of $60-80)
The drag link is basically the same kind of thing but a little cheaper. You will also want to get a new tie-rod end (ball-stud) that connects it to the pitman arm. Make sure the TRE has the same thread diameter but opposite-hand threads as those on the drag link - When you rotate the adjusting sleeve that connects the drag link and TRE, you want them to move in opposite directions.
Removal of the track bar can be "fun". You will want to get a pickle fork (basically looks like a giant tuning fork, sometimes called a ball joint seperator- commonly sold in all the chain stores) and a decent hammer. This gets used on the ball-stud attaching the track bar to the frame - after you pull the cotter pin and remove the castle nut from the end of the ball-stud, you wedge the tip of the fork tongs between the body of the ball-stud and the frame bracket, then pound on the pickle fork until it lets go. Both times I've done this it took a lot of beating.
The axle mount of the track bar is just a bolt and nut - but the nut is special because it has a "flag" welded onto it to stop it spinning, so you don't want to strip or break anything unless you've got welder handy or you want to visit the junkyard. Once you've got the bolt out, you should be able to jerk the bar free of the axle bracket. At this point you should check out the bolt hole on the axle bracket: it can get wallowed out into an oval shape that will let the axle move side to side even with a perfectly good track bar. This is pretty common and can be fixed by welding a plate (maybe a thick washer) over the bracket and using that for the new bolt hole.
When you install the new track bar, start at the frame end. Basically you just insert the ball-stud into the bracket hole and tighten the castle-nut to spec. I suggest you consider the orientation of the hole for the cotter-pin- the frame bracket blocks access from 3 sides and it can be tough to get the pin installed.
The axle side is a matter of getting the bolt through the bracket and bushing. Sometimes the axle will shift when the bar is removed and the holes won't line up. You can align them by turning the steering slightly.
For the drag link, before you remove anything count the number of exposed threads on the TRE and the drag link, and write it down. They should be equal on both sides and you want to match the number when you reinstall, to keep the steering wheel centered (or at least in the right ballpark).
The TREs are removed from the pitman arm/steering knuckle in a similar manner to the track bar ball-stud, but in my experience they are not as tight of a fit. Once you pull the cotter pin and remove the castle nut, they can usually be knocked loose by threading the castle nut back on a few turns and beating with a hammer. A pickle fork will also work, and you could also use a TRE puller (looks like a small pitman arm puller, usually) which does a neat job. You will also have to remove the tie-rod TRE that connects it to the drag link.
With the drag link assembly removed, you loosen the clamps on the drag link adjusting sleeve and unscrew it from the link and the TRE. Screw the new parts into the adjusting sleeve until the number of exposed threads matches the number you wrote down beforehand. There should be the same number exposed on each side. I like to use anti-seize on the threads to prevent them getting frozen in place. Snug the drag link clamps down and then install the TRE studs/castle nuts/cotter pins on each end.
After verifying everything looks good, tighten the clamps and take it for a spin. If the steering wheel is not centered, you can make adjustments by loosening the clamps and rotating the adjusting sleeve a little, retightening the clamps and repeating the test drive. I usually rotate in 1/2 turn increments, and I make chalk marks on the drag link and sleeve to keep track of the adjustments. You don't want to turn it way too far and end up with the wheel looking centering but actually being a whole revolution off. That would take a lot of drag link spinning though!
As long as you don't mess with the tie-rod (runs from PS end of drag link to DS steering knuckle) adjustment clamps, you should not have to worry about alignment other than centering the steering wheel.
And as always after doing this kind of work, inspect everything before taking the initial drive, immediately after the initial drive, then a week later. Make sure no cotter pins have fallen out, none of the new parts are loose/defective, etc.
