my 94 seems like it ate the rear main seal. so i am going to replace it and the oil pan gasket which also looks like it has been leaking. is there anything else i need to grab before i start yanking things apart is there any special tools or anything other than the rear main seal and pan gasket?
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Rear main seal
- Thread starter cdawall
- Start date
- Location
- Charlotte NC
brass punch is helpful with a brass hammer, wd 40 for the new seal and a small tube of silicone.
ParadiseXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paradise, CA 95969
Patience, beer and a whole Saturday. Try gasket remover, just when you think you don't have enough sag to get the pan off, jack it up a bit. That 1/16" vexed me for hours.
When the pan is halfway down, reach in and remove the oil pump and pickup. Always a good time to replace the oil pump.
When the pan is halfway down, reach in and remove the oil pump and pickup. Always a good time to replace the oil pump.
will i be ok with 5" of lift it should have enough drop out i hope lol. probably not going to do the pump its working right now (knock on wood) and the $80 could go towards other things like finally getting rear shackles
ParadiseXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paradise, CA 95969
...and a wand!
SleeperXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Valencia, CA
Might think about doing the oil filter adapter o-rings too.
That may be the source of the leak, It was in my case.
(mines a 99, 305K)
That may be the source of the leak, It was in my case.
(mines a 99, 305K)
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
I'm with Sleeper on this. MANY times RMSs are blamed for leaks only because they are located where any oil leak from above is gonna drip off the engine. This "shoot from the hip" diagnosis is usually from a neighbor, relative or friend who is not gonna have to do the job. Me, I prefer to investigate the rear of the valve cover, OFA seals and the oil sending units first.
- Location
- Harrisburg, NC
Don't forget the distributor gasket as well. Mine leaked from there and also mocked a rear main leak.
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
I'd forgotten about that one. Thanks for the reminder!!
lazyxj
NAXJA Member #1310
- Location
- Los Angeles
Drain the oil, pull the pan and then let it sit overnight, with a sheet of cardboard under it to catch the drips.
This helps minimize the oil shower that will constantly drip down on your face. Safety goggles or glasses are a must.
I make a chart showing where the bolts and stud-bolts go, the same method used when changing valve cover gaskets.
While the pan is off, check the torque on the main and rod bearings. I found a couple of the rod bolts to be loose. It is also a good time to check the torque on flex plate bolts, if you have a AW4.
Since the started is removed, it is a good time to disassemble it for cleaning, lubing and checking on its general condition.
http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoStarterClean.htm
It's real nice not having the bottom of the XJ always covered with a oil.
This helps minimize the oil shower that will constantly drip down on your face. Safety goggles or glasses are a must.
I make a chart showing where the bolts and stud-bolts go, the same method used when changing valve cover gaskets.
While the pan is off, check the torque on the main and rod bearings. I found a couple of the rod bolts to be loose. It is also a good time to check the torque on flex plate bolts, if you have a AW4.
Since the started is removed, it is a good time to disassemble it for cleaning, lubing and checking on its general condition.
http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoStarterClean.htm
It's real nice not having the bottom of the XJ always covered with a oil.
bigchipsfan
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rochester Hills, MI
Go to the dealer to get the 3 (or 4) piece oil adapter seal kit.
I would also suggest doing the oil pump and a timing chain set.
I would also suggest doing the oil pump and a timing chain set.
rocknxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Clinton, Utah (SLC area)
Don't give up hope if you have a leak after replacing the RMS. Both my kid and I had continuing leaks from the RMS after the full day of replacement but they eventually stopped leaking. I sort of expected mine to leak since it was the first time I've done that job, but it was very distressing to see my kid's leak after being so careful with the job. It stopped leaking after a long day of wheeling and has been dry ever since. Welcome to the "RMS-Haters" club.
xcm
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Southern Oregon
if in doubt... do the oil filter o-rings first... and snug the valve cover, easy enough. you WILL BE upset... when it leaks after a day battling the RMS....
also, it seems like some people just love going to the dealership... i am not one of these.... morris4x4 center has all the o-rings in a small kit, about $5. when i went dealership route, i only got 2, as the 3rd didnt fit anywhere.... why bother.
I KNOW, its excessive... but i'll pull the entire front axle and suspension to avoid fighting it... that oil pans is hard enough without bullshit in the way.
also, it seems like some people just love going to the dealership... i am not one of these.... morris4x4 center has all the o-rings in a small kit, about $5. when i went dealership route, i only got 2, as the 3rd didnt fit anywhere.... why bother.
I KNOW, its excessive... but i'll pull the entire front axle and suspension to avoid fighting it... that oil pans is hard enough without bullshit in the way.
While its not a "STEP-BY-STEP HOW TO" there's a 2 part Youtube video on how to do this on a 4.0 in a Grand Cherokee with some really good pointers and tips that I've not seen anywhere else. Tips like making a shoehorn device out of a straw to insert the new seal as well as using a syringe to inject dishsoap into the seal channel for lubrication and make it easier to tap it through.
