98 Fuel Filter Change ???

Hey everyone,

I have a 1998 XJ Sport with the straight 6 4.0. I have never changed the fuel filter mostly because I am unable to find one. Some time when idlyling and sometimes under power it boggs down and then runs fine after about 1 or 2 seconds. I have already replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Oil changed every 3 thousand miles. When it boggs down it sounds like its starving for fuel.

So how would I go about chaning the fuel filter? From what I've herd the filter and pump are one unit inside the tank. So would I really have to pull the tank and how much roughly does it cost to replace.

Thanks

The fuel filter is not routinely serviced unless testing indicated decreased flow capacity or low fuel pressure. Test the fuel pressure, 97-01 it should be 49psi +/- 5 psi.

The fuel filter is inside the tank and you have to drop the tank to service it.

What kind of guage should I use to test the pressure, just a regular tire guage. I've noticed the shrader valve on the fuel rail. Is that were I check it at?

Tim_MN said:

The fuel filter is not routinely serviced unless testing indicated decreased flow capacity or low fuel pressure. Test the fuel pressure, 97-01 it should be 49psi +/- 5 psi.

The fuel filter is inside the tank and you have to drop the tank to service it.

Click to expand...

It is similar to a tire gauge but it is not the same part. You can usually buy them for $75 or so. Most places won't rent them in CA anymore due to liability reasons. Yes, you check pressure at the large schrader on the rail. I had to replace my fuel filters at 110k miles.

The fuel filters are easy to change and you can guy them at NAPA. Drop the tank, remove the fuel pump assm, replace the filters, and install the tank. A first-timer could do it in 3 hours easily, assuming the tank is low on gas.

If you need help, go to the Sierra Chapter and ask for help. I know there are local people in that chapter who can probably help.

the_weirdo said:

A first-timer could do it in 3 hours easily, assuming the tank is low on gas.

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Add to that list (since I just did this on my '98): assuming the bolts are not rusted on the tank straps, assuming you can get to the hose clamps on the filler tube neck up side the body sheet metal, assuming your vent hose didn't crumble into dust like mine did and need to be replaced (add a week on parts), assuming you are low on gas and don't need to siphon the tank....

Have fun. This job was a blast! :roflmao:

And once you've fought your way though the rusted and cracked parts, as well as tried to work with a tank that's slap full of 20 gallons of gas thinking "I don't need to drain it, i'll be fine!", you might want to consider a fuel pump while you're in there as well. If you've got a fair amount of miles on it I would strongly consider replacing the pump with a GOOD one. OEM replacement (Bosch I think?)...not the cheap Airtex ones.

This coming from experience on fuel pump replacements on many other vehicles, as well as from working at a local parts house for about 2 years.

The filter itself sits on top of the pump outside the fuel tank. It's the stainless hockey puck looking thing on top of the tank. It is also a pressure regulator.

There is a pre-filter sock on the bottom of the pump inside the tank but you just have to clean that.

Replacement filter:
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/fuel-filter-fits-all-engines-4798301.html

Search around there are several write ups on the whole procedure.....

Sound good. Thanks for scarring me about hard to reach clamps. If there is anything else that pisses me off more when wrenching its the impossible to reach parts. And this 98, when I bought it, that stood out was that there was ZERO rust on anything. So im good there.

I'll first try the pressure check and see were I'm sitting at right know. Were can I pick up one of the "fuel pressure" guages???


Thanks

I replaced the fuel pump on my 97 recently and was a bit put off by having to drop the tank. It really was not bat at all for me. I loosened the tank strap bolts, removed the metal fill/vent hose guard and removed the hoses from the inlet side. I reached up and pulled the pump hose and returned hose free. The pump electrical connection is easy to get at too. I was able to tilt the passenger side of the tank down and slid it out no fuss.

Going back in was easier since I drained the tank completely empty.

Here is a good checklist (post#5).

Here is a great write-up.

Like UNCC_99XJ mentioned, go with a OEM or Bosch fuel pump (if it need replacement) but IMHO, a cheapo Airtex fuel filters/strainers (#FS220 + FS221) would do the job.
This is the fuel regular i got for my 2000.

GL.

There was a guy on ebay (fuelpumpking1) selling the entire assembly for a decent price. It made it easier to buy everything at once, and it's way easier to do the job once. Might as well. Uses a Bosch pump and OEM regulator. $127 plus shipping for both, and I think he combined the shipping for me.

Edit: Here are the listings - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

And the regulator:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP...1734309QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

seanyb505 said:

There was a guy on ebay (fuelpumpking1) selling the entire assembly for a decent price. It made it easier to buy everything at once, and it's way easier to do the job once. Might as well. Uses a Bosch pump and OEM regulator. $127 plus shipping for both, and I think he combined the shipping for me.

Edit: Here are the listings - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

And the regulator:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP...1734309QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

Click to expand...

That should work fine for you but note, that is not an entire assembly. With all the parts you purchase from them you will be able to completely rebuild the fuel pump assembly you already have.

In side the tank is an aluminum housing that has the pump inside of it and the pre-filter and guage sending unit outside of it.

You will have to tear apart the old one and rebuild it using the above parts. It's not difficult but take your time and if need be, take notes/pictures of every step.

As I recall the hardest part was getting the wiring disconnected from inside. they are down inside so you will need small needle-nose pliers. I used hemostats. And be careful as the wires are brittle from being immersed in gasoline their whole life.

Also there is a fiber spacer inside that centers the pump in the housing and keeps it from moving around. It looks like a thin peice of cardboard. Be careful removing it, it's brittle also. I cracked mine but not badly enough to have to replace it.

Also, when reinstalling the pump (for me) it was very easy to either cross thread the hold down nut and/or push the rubber seal down inside. Take your time, be patient, and make sure it's right....