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Whats better than a Cherokee sized Dana 44 for $200...

Xhavier_5478

NAXJA Forum User
A Cherokee sized Dana 44 with an air locker!! I picked the axle up off of craigslist.org, and just tore into the inside to figure out what gears are inside and was intrigued when I realized there was an air fitting on the top, and having already dealt with the breather fitting I asked myself could it be? It is an air locker, now for a few questions, the air line off the top of the diff is cut off? should that be a concern right off the bat, I didn't cut it when I removed it from the jeep so I have no idea how long it was cut. Whats the easiest way to test it? If it has been out of commission for awhile can they be rebuilt? This will be my very first experience with any sort of locker, little lone an air locker. So any advice is welcomed.
 
My real questions are if it is the 3.55 and below gearing model can I replace the flange with the 3.92 and up? Also I know I will need the ABR locker solenoid and switches, can I run it off of a converted sanden air conditioning compressor, or do I need the separate ABR compressor?
 
Nice lol.

If you wanna run deeper gears you could get a thick ring gear set to work with the current ARB.
 
I was under the impression that the Dana 44 had two specific ARB's one for 3.73 and below and one for 3.92 and up.
it does, but you can buy "thick" gears that have extra meat on them so you can run lower gears on the higher geared carrier
 
My real questions are if it is the 3.55 and below gearing model can I replace the flange with the 3.92 and up? Also I know I will need the ABR locker solenoid and switches, can I run it off of a converted sanden air conditioning compressor, or do I need the separate ABR compressor?

The type of compressor doesn't matter, however you will want some sort of storage tank (even a really small one is fine) so that the locker engages quickly and securely. Without the tank, you'd have to wait for the compressor to build ~100psi each time you engaged the locker.

Also, the ARB switch/solenoid isn't absolutely necessary. Some (myself included) like the electric over pneumatic activation system while others choose to just use straight pneumatic valves so they don't have to worry about a failed electrical system preventing their locker from engaging.
 
Its the old style.
 
The type of compressor doesn't matter, however you will want some sort of storage tank (even a really small one is fine) so that the locker engages quickly and securely. Without the tank, you'd have to wait for the compressor to build ~100psi each time you engaged the locker.

This is not a true statement. I run both front and rear air lockers from the arb compressor. It runs for 7 seconds when I hit the switch and about 3 seconds when I turn both lockers on and off. In a whole day of wheeling, it might turn on by itself 2 or 3 times. It's usually running more because I leave them open unless I need the axles locked up, so I'm turning them on and off all the time.

Volume in a storage tank has nothing to do with pressure required to actuate the lockers.
 
This is not a true statement. I run both front and rear air lockers from the arb compressor. It runs for 7 seconds when I hit the switch and about 10 seconds when I turn both lockers on. In a whole day of wheeling, it might turn on by itself 2 or 3 times. It's usually running more because I leave them open unless I need the axles locked up.

Volume in a storage tank has nothing to do with pressure required to actuate the lockers.

I agree. My buddy's old TJ was set up this way. No tank anywhere just the ARB compressor under the hood.
 
Since this is the old style, what should I do to keep the end cap from backing out the screws and grenade the whole thing? I'm going to be pulling it to regear it and have the axle housing cleaned up.

You can remove the bolts that hold the end cap on one at a time, clean the threads thoroughly and apply some Loctite RED to the threads.
I have heard of a few Jeep owners lightly tack welding the bolts in place once the bolts are torqued to the recommended amount; although the Loctite would be my first choice.
 
You can remove the bolts that hold the end cap on one at a time, clean the threads thoroughly and apply some Loctite RED to the threads.
I have heard of a few Jeep owners lightly tack welding the bolts in place once the bolts are torqued to the recommended amount; although the Loctite would be my first choice.

X2,dont even bother with the little retainer spring clips,they didn't work("bad" ARB).Run a killer diff cover and call it good!
 
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