Project Heep

Hey all Decided to get away fro rock crawling and 4x4 toys and get a Heep to build .This will be a little more fam oreinted than the toy.So here we go !!!!!!:skull2:
Picked up a 99 limited for the low price of $100 with a coolant leak issue. After 2 min of diag found the bearings in the waterpump were so shot the pully had cut in to the housong around1/4 in . So off to the parts store and 2 hrs later new pump installed. Came back the next day to put coolant in and someone decided they wanted my cat more than me :firedevil
So now I need a cat sourced online for $65.
Now the build plans Can't decide on 3 or 4.5 lift I will only be running 31's lockers of some sort in both axels. Rear is the 8.5 355 gears and front is the Dana M30 181 mm front axel??I think the vin decoder meant d30, aw4 tranny.
Ft and rear bumpers tire carrier of some sort , roof rack,winch,sliders.

Opinions welcome on this set up pics to follow..

if your budget is low stay 3.5" or lower...

3-3.5" is nice because you can still use the stock track bar (just relocate it) and the stock control arms (just shim them)

if you got a little more money then 4.5 is the way to go... just make sure your kit has at least adjustable lower control arms and a track bar that is also adjustable, upper control arms and sway bar disconnects would be nice

also if was going 4.5" I would want the rear to have a 3-3.5" lift spring and a 1-1.5" lift shackle... as this combo should flex better than a 4.5" lift spring on it's own

Thanks for the input I want to have good flex but at the same time I want driveability. I was leaning twards the 4.5 lift kit .Money is a small issue but that is because I have a few other projects that I am currently involved in . I am patient and not beside getting a used kit if someone is going larger.I was thinking of getting the zj trackbar I have access to a few jy that are not really open to the public so that helps.

well if you can weld you can do this on the cheap...

I would do this...

FRONT
-Rough Country 4.5" coils $130

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...IROR&Product_Code=IR-X45FSP&Category_Code=XSP


home made sway bar disconnects $10

I got a farm pin for each side and cut and welded the rear sway bar link and welded that to the front... been holding up just fine... also cut down the rear sway bar link mount to use it in the front (it is now bolted to the front sway bar)


for the sway bar you could drop it an inch and redrill the axle side track bar mount, that could be done for almost nothing (however you would need a drop pitman arm as well that matches the amount of drop you are using on the track bar)

OR

you could build one that uses heims on both side and make a double sheer bracket for the frame side, I would also recommend that you make a new bracket for the axle side as well, this would make everything go a LOT smoother)
this would cost you about $60-120

for the rear I would make a 3-3.5" Bastard pack using either Dakota or S10 rear leafs... there are many walk thrus explaining this process, either way it is done with used junk yard springs, all you need is new leaf spring hard ware and leaf spring u bolts... so this would cost $25-100 depending on what you spend on USED leaf springs for a donor

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/perfect-bastard-pack-maybe-48261/

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/s10-springs-bastard-pack-1380/

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=245106028

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/3-bastard-pack-leafs-s10-597341/


then I would get a extended rear shackle, for the price the Superior Automotive 13-4100 is hard to beat... it has to height settings (1.5" and 2.5") it can be found at MOST autoparts stores for around $25-$40 and it is very well made for the price
(you might consider drilling and tapping it to add a grease cert or getting a bolt that has a grease channel in it.)

then you should make a shackle relocation bracket, it is rather simple thing to make
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=944040

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=934581

then you will want to drive it around for a few weeks and let it settle... aft that you might find that the rear sits a bit higher than the front.. if this is the case you might want to build an all metal coil spacer for the front... should only cost you around $10 a pair

http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/SRfrontCoilSpacers/FrontCoilSpacers.htm


you will also need new brake lines...

(1990-95) GM C1500 brake lines on the front and (1995-2000)Dodge Dakota on the rear


another thing you will need to address is the rear drive shaft angles... you could get a t case drop and some rear axle shims, BUT that might not work on a 1996+ due to the design on the rear tail shaft/housing

I would get this instead...
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...=IROR&Product_Code=IR-X_HNT&Category_Code=XDT


then all you need is some control arms... you CAN build short arms... but it is not much more work to build long arms... and will not cost much more either...

to keep it simple you should just build radius style long arms... I would get some ruff stuff heims, either 7/8 or better yet 1.25 for the lowers and 7/8 is all you need for the uppers (and you really only need the drivers side upper)

there are many walk thrus on making a set of radius arms the hardest part will be making the frame side mounts/crossmember

finally you will need shocks... they can be had for as cheapo a $120 a set, but the SKY IS THE LIMIT

double post

Thanks a ton eric This will help me get my lift together alot sooner than expected.I have access to a stick and mig so diying will not be too much of an issue .I have modest diy and welding skills. I can get s 10 leafs for approx $20.Time to start hoarding parts...

heep xj said:

Thanks a ton eric This will help me get my lift together alot sooner than expected.I have access to a stick and mig so diying will not be too much of an issue .I have modest diy and welding skills. I can get s 10 leafs for approx $20.Time to start hoarding parts...

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you will be all like... NO!!! MY BRAKE LINES!!! NO NO NO!!! MY GHETTO SHACKLES!!! ARRRRRRRRR!!!!

Well it's been a while since I first posted my build . My computer went out on me and knocked some funds down but now i am back on line and ready to upload pics.

I would say go with 4.5 inches of lift and go no larger than 32's with stock gearing, I ran my 4.5 with 31's for a while and it rode decent and didn't look bad. with a 4.5 lift you will get so many more options for down the road.

I positive on the 4.5 lift but not sure long arm or just get x flex with the drop brackets and spend the diffrence on somthing else

I run RC long arms and have had trouble with the bushings in the front arms. Also , the crossmember is in the way of the trans pan for service. My brothers TJ uses the x flex arms, with no issues.

etatum21 said:

I run RC long arms and have had trouble with the bushings in the front arms. Also , the crossmember is in the way of the trans pan for service. My brothers TJ uses the x flex arms, with no issues.

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Good to know . I am still in the planning phase and am now doing a ton more research to make sure I do this right the first time .I am not apposed to putting together a frankenstein kit if it means better reliability at a similar cost. Any suggestions gladly welcome and !!! Mabye serious la kit w/rc springs, bilstein shocks or ome, currie or serious steering , random steering stabilizer kit , ect. I would like opinions based on real world set ups not names.Thanks in advance. I take the mind set of do it right the frst time .

Ok so today I finnally got a chance to really dig in to this heep did a seafoam treatment and welded up the cat delete pipe. Here is where I need all of the jeep wizards to come together to help me .I started the jeep up and the famous no bus light came on but here is where it gets interesting . I had a air bag light , check engine light and none of the guages were working .... WTF??? then after about 10 min all lights went off all guages started working od was reading mileage then after lettinng it idle for 30 min all lights came back on guages failed again and no bus came back??? Would replaceing the two harness plugs in the back of the cluster fix this or is it more serious.

Next on the list of WTF the power driver seat will go up and down but not forward and backward .I was looking at the bottom of the seal and messing with the switch and I think the switch is bad. The pass side will go up down and forward but not backward . Are the switches the most comon failure point ?? Any and all leads are greatly appreciated.

I think I have decided on the rough country 4.5 long arm kit,sye, and cvd shaft to start.I have been working on selling another project and will be ordering this stuff in the next few weeks . Still have no clue about the seats. I have ordered the 2 plugs behind the dash for the no bus issue . Found a set of rubicon wheels and tires for 550 Good deal or not? The tires 4 of them have 17k mi and 5th one was the spare.I know I will need spacers and was looking at the trax ones but they are 100 for 2 wich would be 200 more on top of the 550?? any other kits or are these the ones to get??