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rebuilding front CV shaft

jeepfreak1020

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Thornton
Who has rebuilt there front CV shaft? The shops around here want more then I want to spend. I can get the whole rebuild kit with yoke for like $120 compaired to like $250 for them to rebuild it.

How hard is it really to do? ive read a few write ups and I think I can manage it and do it. Ive done many u-joints before, just never a DS. Can you do it just in a garage with normal tools??
 
Buy the yoke center kit as a whole and its a very easy job, can be done in a half hour with the avg hand tools.
 
I did it without a writeup, with two C claps, a hammer and a socket, in the gravel driveway at my appartment complex. It isn't hard at all go for it.
 
It's cake. Just make sure to line up all the components and greasing zerks back in the same place when rebuilding to make sure the balance is still mostly true.
 
I was reading a few things about like springs being in there and to be careful not to loose them. And the ball thats in the CV or something? Maybe I just wasent reading it right. I also read that you have to pump the CV full or grease or you can destroy it in the matter or like months.
 
There's one spring in the centering ball. Yeah, don't lose it. The first time I did one I left it out and had to tear it back apart again to get it in. Depending on the wear on the double cardan it may be better to replace the centering ball entirely.

Greasing is important whether it is a standard u-joint or a double cardan. I have heard of people killing driveshafts in a few months for missing grease.
 
Chad, if you're still messing with this, check out this write up. For a TJ, but same components.
 
I've rebuilt a couple of them. Pretty easy job. Just go slowly and pay attention, and document the order of disassembly and position of the components.

You need a minimum of 3 u-joints, preferably 4 since you are likely break or drop a needle bearing, and preferably the Spicer 5-153X joints. The centering ball yoke is Spicer part 211355X and is complete with ball and spring. Total cost for 4 u-joints and the yoke is about $100 from northern drivetrain. The zerk fittings that come with the u-joints can be hard to reach when the driveshaft is installed so I like to use the low-profile zerks and a needle fitting on the grease gun. McMaster-Carr sells the low-profile type, item number 10595K14 is the 1/4" x 28 pitch, about $2.50 for a pack of 5.

The u-joint at the yoke has to be separated from the CV joint before the u-joint can be removed from the driveshaft. Reassemble in the same order.

The ball and spring assembly is kind of irritating. The end with the cup has a nub shaft sticking out (male) with a hole in the center for the spring. Meanwhile the centering ball has an opening in the center (female) that is lined with needle bearings. The spring goes into the nub, and the nub goes into the hole in the ball, and the nub rides on the needle bearings. You need to lard this up with grease pretty well--there is also a small flush-mount zerk fittting that can be used to regrease later but it is very hard to reach with the shaft installed in the jeep.

Another tricky part is that you have to do all of that while also installing the u-joints. If you get the angles wrong teh parts will only go in about half way then jam up on each other. Look at how the parts must be oriented when they are squeezed together and it will be obvious.

The grease fittings on the yoke need to be outboard of the centering yoke when everything is reassembled.
 
I just finished mine. I soaked the caps with pb blaster over night. When i pulled the u joints out they came out like butter which was the exact opposite as my rears came out. I also made a little tool to hammer out the joints out of 1/2" black pipe. I used the C clamps on the rear shaft and I broke 2 of them.

Buy an extra u joint you will thank me for that. I put some extra grease in the caps to hold the needle bearings in place while re assembling. I used the brute force u joints since they are local and you can get them for a steal over the spicers with advance autoparts with a coupon.

I had to buy the whole centering ball assembly because mine had no more needle bearings.

Its easy to complete it. Just getting the old u joints out is the hardest part.
 
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