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Steering box adjustment - lost my bearing

duck1982

NAXJA Forum User
Location
brooklyn
So I'm a noob with a 2001 stock xj, 137k, and I'm in need of some guidance!


The steering was really loose, especially on the highway. I know now also the track bar bushing is bad and I'm waiting for a new one.

I've done some steering box adjustments on some other vehicles, and I there was definitely some play (from what I've read, I know it could be the track bar), so I went ahead and tried to adjust the box anyways.
I know now I should have fixed the track bar first.....
I'm afraid I might have screwed this one up!

This is what happened:
I marked off the adjuster allen screw with a paint marker, and the only wrench I had to loosen the locknut was a socket wrench. I was impatient, and used the socket wrench against my better judgment, and it completely took off my paint marking!! NOW I have no way of knowing whether the adjustment screw had turned a bunch or not.

I then tightened a bit (maybe?) and the steering got really stiff, it started to bind a little. So I loosened it up a bit, and the binding got a little better (I know this could also be because of some other worn parts.. no matter how loose I make it does bind a little).

I know if the steering box is too tight, it can blow up or seize on me.

My first question is:
Does anyone know whether something like that can happen if its set too loose?

My second question is:
Since I've lost my bearing, where do I start?
I'm functioning on limited resources- no lift, no jackstands. I've got a wrench and and an allen key, thats it. Removing the box is not an option.

I've loosened it up a bunch, but it seems to have no effect no matter how loose I make it. I can tighten it, and it will bind a little.
I just want it to be 1. safe and 2. dialed in.

I also figured that I can adjust it until the pitman arm starts to move a little, and leave it at that- but the arm always seems to move, no matter how loose I make it.
 
Yep, ya screwed up..... Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.....

The adjusting screw on top does not adjust slop out of the box. It adjusts bearing pre-load.

The only PROPER way to adjust the steering box is out of the vehicle and with special tools.

If it's done wrong the box COULD lock up and potentially kill you.

If you suspect the box is worn out, buy a replacement. Is your life worth more than the $175 it would cost to replace it?

I just replaced mine. The hardest part was getting the pitman arm off.

Click here:
http://www.carsteering.com/addtocart/2001_Jeep/Cherokee/Power_Steering_Gear_Box/82-00305.html




.
 
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Removing the box is not an option./QUOTE]

I guess your only safe option is to park it then.

I rebuild tons of boxes and the only safe way to adjust one is on the bench. If it is still binding once you back off the screw, it sounds like you may have forced it and fubar'd the recirculating ball screw mechanism or the bearings are shot. Either way it needs to come out to be able to dismantle it, and without the right tools and experience, it is a real bitch. Even then sometimes they make me cuss.

Incorrect adjustment of the steering gear can lead to serious safety problems and is not to be done without skill and knowledge. That is why you always see people on here warning about doing exactly what you did.
 
Yes, I know, I screwed up! and thanks for the quick reply. I really don't suspect I messed up the bearings, but I did lose my "bearing" on where the lash screw should be set.

I've done some reading here, from what I understand if there is no side to side play on the steering shaft, I didn't mess up the bearings. Is there another way to tell whether I messed it up ?

I really think the lash screw needs only to be adjusted..... I've read this also, http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/saginaw.htm but I don't have the tools now.

I didn't drive it for long with the hard binding (when I "tightened" the lash screw). It doesn't really bind now, just a little, which I suspect is because of the track bar,
which has definite vertical play, and probably some other bushings. I think that the binding now, after I loosened the box, is not as serious as I made it sound!

Assuming I didn't mess up the bearing, how loose is too loose? Am I risking the steering box being seizing or otherwise getting messed up?
I can handle a little looseness around town...

Now when I loosen it up a bunch (I really turned it a few full turns counter clockwise)
it doesn't seem to make any difference at all. is this normal?

I guess my question is: if I loosen it up all the way, what can happen?
Can I just loosen it up all the way and slowly just turn 1/8th at a time until I feel comfortable? That was my plan, but I'm not noticing any real difference when loosening, only when tightening.

I don't mind spending the money on a new box, but won't have it for a couple of weeks. I'm pretty handy, I'm sure I can figure out how to adjust it myself on the bench, I just don't have the tools now either..
 
While I don't recommend it, if you are dead set on adjusting it yourself, at least drop the pitman arm or the TRE and the tie rod. That way you isolate the box from the rest of the steering. Do the adjustment with the engine off.
 
Okay, okay.

I will leave it parked.

I'm in over my head, obviously. I thought the lash screw would take out the slop,
and I don't even really know what pre-load is. What am I doing?!?

I appreciate the help guys. There is so much information on this forum.
 
One of the things about adjusting the lash in the box is that it changes with temperature. When I do it on the bench, I take it down to where I can just start to feel the drag, then back out the adjuster 20 degrees. That is after I over tighten and force the bearings to seat and then back it off. In a vehicle, it is hard to tell when it starts to drag and you can easily get it too tight. It feels fine but you get out on the road and it heats up and binds and freezes. :fuse:

Be careful. It's not worth yours or someone elses life.
 
agreed! Not worth it. I've only been putzing around locally on it, not driving fast at all, and certainly not taking it on the highway.

I did notice that adjusting it felt a little different after driving.... it was hot.

Right now the lash adjuster is sticking out about good 4.5-5mm above the locknut top, which is considerably more than when I first started with it. So I think it is very loose, I think okay to take it to drive it to the mechanic eventually?

Also, I want to be clear on something: When I was on the freeway when I just got the car, there was some play in the center. I know that 1 inch is normal on this car, but it was a bit more than that. In retrospect, and after reading on this forum, it seems my drag link needs to be adjusted because I had to hold the wheel to the left a little to get the car to go straight (maybe also the track bar, which will be replaced asap).
SO, considering OriginalMB's comment, assuming all else is 100% and there was still a little slop, the lash screw would do nothing to correct the slop?
 
Update: so I drove it to the local mechanic, just to see whether I effed up the box or not, and he said its a little on the loose side but I didn't mess it up! So thats good. I'll wait until the track bar comes and get it fixed up.

I'm pretty sure the lash adjuster is a little higher than when I had originally messed with it, but then again I can't tell especially with all the gunk that was on it in the beginning.

Thanks for all your input!!! :star:
 
If your steering was off center when you adjusted it, that could explain much of the problem you had. The box is designed to be tighter on center than off, and adjustment must be made only with the box itself (not the wheels) on center. If you tighten it off center, it binds on center. When it's correct on center it will have a little slop off center. This is one of the reasons it's recommended that you do this off the vehicle, or at least with pitman disconnected, so that you can center the box independently of the rest of the vehicle.

You should also be aware that these boxes will feel different when there's fluid pumping through them, and even a good one may click a little when it's off. However, some of the play you may feel will not be in the part you're adjusting, but elsewhere in the system, so trying to tighten it to get all the play out will be fruitless. Again, this is one of the reasons why the correct procedure is done on the bench, with an inch-pound torque wrench.
 
At this point, I'm happy to have a little play if I don't have to worry about the box being adjusted too loose.

I don't think the adjustment is too tight now. From what I understand so far, the slight binding I'm experiencing is from the track bar, or some faulty u joints, or something else.. I experienced the binding from the overtightening the steering box, but got rid of it when I loosened it.

My chief concern really is that that the steering box is adjusted to loose.
because I completely lost touch with the original setting. (I know I know I shouldnt have done that) when
I loosened the lash screw pretty much ALL THE WAY in hopes of being able to slowly dial it in from the loosest setting.

The steering has a little play now like my moms old crown vic, and I'm okay with it for now. I don't think its bad.
I am planning to adjust the box after I get all those other items fixed.

I just wonder whether, assuming my box is good and my other parts are to blame for the SLIGHTLY binding center return,
whether there is any danger in having the box a few full turns too loose.
 
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So I got the trackbar replaced, Huge difference!!
I adjusted the box AGAIN after that, everything seemed okay.. for a bit.

Now there is a little binding again..
I've decided for my peace of mind and the safety of everybody I will replace the box.

Is the hardest part really getting that pitman arm off?
I know I sound like a real noob with these questions but,
if somebody could help, it is appreciated:

1. What is the tool called to pull the arm off?
A pitman arm puller?

2. Do I need to adjust the box at all once I get it?

3. Is this THE place to buy from?
http://www.carsteering.com/addtocart/2001_Jeep/Cherokee/Power_Steering_Gear_Box/82-00305.html#
.............Or can I just walk into Autozone?

4. What is the CORE? I can't figure it out.
With core/ without core ............
what are they talking about?

!!!1
 
Yes it is called a pitman arm puller. You can rent one at Autozone.

A core is simply your old box.

It should come fully adjusted and you should never need to touch it.
 
So I got the trackbar replaced, Huge difference!!
I adjusted the box AGAIN after that, everything seemed okay.. for a bit.

Now there is a little binding again..
I've decided for my peace of mind and the safety of everybody I will replace the box.

Is the hardest part really getting that pitman arm off?
I know I sound like a real noob with these questions but,
if somebody could help, it is appreciated:

1. What is the tool called to pull the arm off?
A pitman arm puller?

2. Do I need to adjust the box at all once I get it?

3. Is this THE place to buy from?
http://www.carsteering.com/addtocart/2001_Jeep/Cherokee/Power_Steering_Gear_Box/82-00305.html#
.............Or can I just walk into Autozone?

4. What is the CORE? I can't figure it out.
With core/ without core ............
what are they talking about?

!!!1

1: yes, that's probably the hardest part, but see below....pitman arm puller is the tool, and can often be rented. It's on there good and tight! I'd advise that you at least loosen the big nut while the box is still mounted, and unless you have a good big vise, it's probably easier to get the arm off with it mounted as well.

2: no, if the box is any good, it will come properly adjusted. The proper adjustment is a multi-part affair utilizing an inch-pound torque gauge, etc. so get a warrantee and leave it alone.

3: Don't know

4: Core is your old part. Rebuilders want the old one so they can rebuild it or mine it for parts. Usually you'll pay the whole price and then get a refund when the core is received. Likely no problem, since yours is working, but if you had one that was really destroyed, you'd probably do better finding the best "no core" price, since some rebuilders will not give a refund if the core is unrebuildable.

edit: I forgot the "see below" part. It can also be a bit difficult to get your old box off and back on, depending on year, but it's more tedious than technically challenging. First of all, if it's rusty, you'll have to take some care getting the bolts off. If there's a danger of shearing them, make sure before you start the job that you have new ones or know where new ones can be found. Technically, new ones are supposed to be used, but we rarely do this in practice. They are, however, critical as to strength. Do not replace with just anything. Get the right ones. Second, the aluminum spacer behind the box can corrode, crack, and otherwise get fouled up. If that's the case you may have to replace it, or you'll be plagued with creaks and crackles and poor steering. If it's in one piece you can reuse it. In case you have never done this before, you should know that the clamp bolt on the bottom joint of the steering shaft must be entirely removed to get the shaft off. It not only clamps, but engages a groove in the shaft as a secondary safety feature. Finally, although I think it's no big problem on an '01, it can be a bit difficult to get the steering shaft onto the box if the box is already mounted, so you may have to try to get the shaft on before you bolt the box in. Nothing terribly daunting there, but the thing is heavy and a bit hard to handle when you're upside-down in the dirt, so be prepared for a bit of stress getting the box actually up where it belongs and getting all three bolts in and catching threads. It can take a few tries. Finally finally (whew!) make sure you get the torque on the bolts right, and loctite is recommended.
 
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ALSO- I will definitely need another alignment when all is said and done, right?

Is there a way to avoid this? I've been to the wheel alignment guy twice in the past 2 weeks (the new track bar threw my steering wheel way off for some reason)
and I'd like to avoid going a third time!
 
A steering box should not change the relationship of one wheel to the other, which is what an alignment is. It can also be argued that an alignment could be the relationship of the wheels to the car body, but if you've been to an alignment shop twice recently, that should already have been established. The straightening of the steering wheel is not hard, and it does not involve changing the alignment on your Jeep. To anyone contemplating what you're about to undertake, straightening the wheel should be well within your ability. Basically, you are lengthening or shortening the link between the Pitman arm and the right knuckle, with the left knuckle remaining in the same relation to the right side. Just loosen the clamps on the sleeve immediately adjacent to the Pitman arm, and rotate it. Make sure you tighten any loosened clamps on the sleeve before you drive it. Probably no more than half a turn will give you the results you are looking for.
 
actually, I have another question.
I've read a lot about this durango upgrade, and it might not be too late to change my order.

Is it worth it, if I'm just using this jeep as a daily driver?
I'm not lifted, or off roading really.

Any thoughts/suggestions?
 
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