Brakes to the floor

I decided to take thirty minuets to replace my rotors the other day, and I'm now going into day three of this project.
Let me start from the beginning so you can know what I know. I got my 1999 4.0 auto smoged and when I got in the jeep the ABS light was on I went to the DMV, than to auto zone to pick up new rotors and pads. As I was leaving auto zone the ABS light went off. I put the jeep in the garage and parked it. I had breaks. I got the calipers off, replaced the rotors and soon realized I could not compress the calipers. I pulled both calipers off and took them to my in-laws to use the shop press. I took the calipers apart inspected and cleaned them. I brought them back home and put the whole thing back together.
The pedal now goes right to the floor. I pump it and it has pressure. It sits for 10 seconds and back to the floor.
I have bled all four wheels, the master cylinder, and the ABS lines. (ABS done with ignition on) There is zero air in there. When I pump up the system and hold it keeps its pressure, which is how I ruled out the master cylinder seals. I have bled the whole system four times and not a bubble of air is how I ruled that out.
In the morning I'm going to pick up plugs to plug off the ABS system. My reason for that is there should be a fail-safe; if ABS goes out I should have breaks.
I don’t feel to confident in that. I feel like it has something to do with the ABS. I just would like more ideas thrown out there so I can have a different approach.

if you had to compress the calipers with a shop press they are probably junk, however i don't think that is your issue unless they are leaking. Which is possible, they could be leaking behind the dust boots. Also, you can't bleed the ABS module unless you have a DRB scan tool. The ABS light could be a bad sensor or a sensor with too large or small of a gap. The master cylinder still could be at fault since it isn't exactly holding pressure. How did you bleed the brakes?

mikeam7750 said:

. I pulled both calipers off and took them to my in-laws to use the shop press. The pedal now goes right to the floor. I pump it and it has pressure. It sits for 10 seconds and back to the floor.
There is zero air in there. When I pump up the system and hold it keeps its pressure, which is how I ruled out the master cylinder seals. I have bled the whole system four times and not a bubble of air is how I ruled that out.
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Is it possible that you switche the calipers, right to left.

Are the bleeder screws on the top of the caliper or at the bottom...??

If they are switched and the bleeder screws are on the bottom of the caliper, it'll never bleed right and the pedal will never get hard (air bubbles go up).

I never thought about them being on the wrong side. should the bleeder screw be on the top ot the bottom?

I bleed the lines with suction and by hand.

on the back of the jeep they are at the top, on my wife's car they are at the top. I just looked and they are on the bottom.

There's the problem.

P.S. I only knew this cause I screwed mine up in the same way. After much foul language my buddy pointed it out to me. Live and learn.

Bleeder screws are always at the top of the chamber, that's where the air bubble will collect. Even if you bleed with suction, you'll never get that bubble out if the bleeder is on the bottom.

If you couldn't compress the piston by hand, I'd replace the caliper.

I owe this fourm a day of work. If there was an emoji of me bowing it would be used now.

Pony up. Join the club.

ChiXJeff said:

If you couldn't compress the piston by hand, I'd replace the caliper.

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And, they're twelve years old, if they are the originals. Wouldn't hurt.

Thank you for this thread. I too am an idiot.