tell me what else i need

workin on my first cherokee

i just bought a 4.5 rough country lift for my xj

got goodyear duratrac 31s on cragar soft 8s 4"backspace

what else is neccessary for me to get..my friend has the same exact setup and blew his rear i dont wanna do that

do i need anything to strengthen my steering?

help me out..i wanna know everything

A cheap mod is to find ZJ V8 steering (a junkyard near you?) since it has a Beefier tierod. Maybe an exhaust system to let the 4.0 breath?

well, what does the kit come with?

comes with Front coil springs, front lower control arms, transfer case drop kit, swaybar links, brake line relocating brackets, (4) RC Hydro 8000 series shocks, and rear add-a-leafs and shackles.

will prob get that zj steering and new exaust

anything else

The list goes on. Could always get gears, lockers, slip yoke eliminator with new driveshafts. It all depends how serious (what terrain you wheel) you want to get with your jeep.

dingo01xj said:

my friend has the same exact setup and blew his rear i dont wanna do that

do i need anything to strengthen my steering?

Click to expand...

what did your friend break? his rear axle? if youve got d35's, might consider swapping in a 29spl 8.2(bolt in)5, or a ford 8.8 if you can (welding install). the d35 is generally considered 'ok' on 31's, but its a weak axle, they do break easily, especially if abused.

at 4.5", you dont NEED new custom steering, but once again, the stock stuff can break rather easily. if you get the grand cherokee steering, make sure it's off a V8, the 4.0 grand cherokee's got smaller stuff similar to ours. i run jcr under the knuckle, 1-ton steering at about that height, but run larger tires that put more stress on the steering, small 31x10.5's or so should be fine on stock.

THE kit you posted, unfortunately comes with add a leaf's for the rear leaf pack... these usually dont last longer than a year, at which point, you'll have a saggy ass, s-shaped leaf pack. this happens quicker if your stock leaf packs are tired allready. once you start sagging out back, the leafs will allow axle wrap which kills driveshaft ujoints, and generally feels like your rear suspension is playing the bongo's. maybe consider spending a little more for the full leaf pack kit... you will be buying full leafs sooner than you think if you go with an AAL. maybe search 'bastard pack' for ideas on building your own pack smarter than an AAL so it doesnt die so quickly.

PERSONALLY, i would avoid the exhaust unless it's got a hole in it.
welcome to the site

dingo01xj said:

comes with Front coil springs, front lower control arms, transfer case drop kit, swaybar links, brake line relocating brackets, (4) RC Hydro 8000 series shocks, and rear add-a-leafs and shackles.

will prob get that zj steering and new exaust

anything else

Click to expand...

Ok I ran the same RC kit on my 91 and loved it because it does a great job for the money. you WILL need an Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) and a new rear drive shaft because the t-case spacers are worthless. Make sure you take them off after putting on the SYE to measure for the new shaft, since you will not need them afterwards. Also highly recommended are the JKS quicker disconnects for better articulation. You can trash the rear sway bar. I strongly recommend you get extended bake hoses because with the front discos you will have a ton of articulation which will also make you get extended bump stops. Rusty's has a good deal on an K&N and flowmaster cat-back combo that works and sounds great and for about $200 can't be beat (9RP-EXSP-XJ) With 31's you should not have any problems with steering unless it's really worn out or you decide to run a lunchbox/automatic locker in the front. But what helps to correct the angle is a drop pitman arm. Also, do get a heavy duty track bar. I have the RE HD trackbar but the bushings are crappy, so i don't recommend it. I think I touched on everything....

I ran 33's on the 4.5 with minor front fender trimming and almost no rear trimming but the flare removal. But then you'll have to think about re-gearing because the lack of power will kill you. (I had 3.55's and went to 4.56's)

Hope this helps and welcome.

At 4.5" you can relocate the stock brake lines lower in the wheel well. What yr is the Jeep? If it's 96+, you'll probably need an SYE in place of the t-case drop. 95- you might get away with it, but an SYE is still preferable. Look into a hack and tap if you're looking to save money.

Get leaf packs instead of add a leafs.

i think 3" is about the limit for moving the hardlines, at 3" i was fine, but when i put on a flexy 3.5" kit they were borderline... i wouldnt risk it if you dont run swaybars, or disconnect offroad. its easy insurance.

:dunno: mine had a little slack left with 4.5" coils and no swaybars. But then, come to think of it, my shocks were really only good for maybe 2-3" of lift so they were probably limiting my droop a bit.

Armor(trans skid, motor skid, gas skid, and rock sliders). lockers,sye and drive shaft,alloy axle shafts, good recovery points front and rear, winch, recovery straps bumpers make sure you have a full size spare the rest you can upgrade as it breaks.