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What else would you replace while accessible?

in4aride

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Montrose
90, 4.0, aw4, 193k

doing a complete front end swap, so the jeep wont have any front axle or suspension for a day or two.

plan is to pull oil pan off and replace (been smacked on some rocks) so obviously resealing it as well.

i do leak some oil from the screwed up pan but otherwise have no ticking, knocking, pressure, misfire, or any other sort of issues. Given milage, is there anything you would check or replace while in there?

(please keep in mind i am in no way a motor guy, i know what shit does and thats about the extent of it so if you suggest something please be a lil liberal with your explanation - im an idiot)



THANKS:repair:
 
I would definitely replace the harmonic balncer. It is the biggest and lowest pulley. You will need to rent a pull out tool. Measure the distance between the radiator and the harmonic balancer bolt before renting the tool and tell them that this is the distance you have to work with so they dont give you a bigger tool that wont fit.

you might want to replace the front seal while there, check the condition of the timing chain and if you really feel rich and motivated a new water pump and thermostat would do...:)

I know it looks like too much, but it really isnt. Check a manual, all this work isnt complicated at all and I think Haynes covers it all in great detail, but if you want to keep the car you should definitely get the factory service manual.

Good luck

Boris
 
you can check your rod bearings as well its easy with the pan off just pull the rod cap off and see if the bearings are silver or copper looking then re-torque to 47 ftlbs
 
I would definitely replace the harmonic balncer. It is the biggest and lowest pulley. You will need to rent a pull out tool. Measure the distance between the radiator and the harmonic balancer bolt before renting the tool and tell them that this is the distance you have to work with so they dont give you a bigger tool that wont fit.

you might want to replace the front seal while there, check the condition of the timing chain and if you really feel rich and motivated a new water pump and thermostat would do...:)

I know it looks like too much, but it really isnt. Check a manual, all this work isnt complicated at all and I think Haynes covers it all in great detail, but if you want to keep the car you should definitely get the factory service manual.

Good luck

Boris

why would you want to replace that on a jsut cuz basis?
the cooling system is all new in the last year including the parts you mentioned.
 
Hey Mike!

Last I looked, your left handed variable magnetic base dopticator was looking raggedy. Might want to get after that...

Really, if the oil pressure is good and the motor is quiet (well...) leave it alone. If you fail to retorque the bearing caps properly after "looking at the bearings" then it will fail. Unless you want to do an in-frame rebuild (i.e. all new bearings) just let'er be...

Just sayin.

Besides, your dopticator is the wrong colour...
 
...and how do I know that...?

If you dont need advice, dont ask...I got better things to do.

you didnt know that, i was saying ive got that base covered, thanks for suggesting it.

i was asking if there was a common problem with the harmonic balancer? or any other reason that they should just be replaced as you go. I dont know WTF that even does. i was jsut asking why that part is something to look at being replaced.




STEAMER! - hey man... my train of thought is like yours, if its not broke dont fix it, but people tear into motors and know way more than me about them, so figured id search out some opinions. The rear main is a definite to get added to the list since i am leaking oil and i cant guarantee its only coming from the pan. didnt know if oil pickup or anything else should be swapped? since im dropping the pan, should i seafoam it prior to, so i can clean any sludge out? the oil seems to maintain consistency and color pretty well, but i havent pulled valve cover or pan yet so i dunno what kinda crap could be hiding in there..... :wierd:
 
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you didnt know that, i was saying ive got that base covered, thanks for suggesting it.

i was asking if there was a common problem with the harmonic balancer? or any other reason that they should just be replaced as you go. I dont know WTF that even does. i was jsut asking why that part is something to look at being replaced.

Sorry, I guess I read too much into your post.

The HB has a rubber component between the center part and the outer ring (both metal, I think), that with time ages and cracks. If you wait too late it would separate and would shred your accessory belt, which means you wouldnt be able to get home. Even if you had a spare belt, you wouldnt be able to install it without changing the HB.

You might want to ask others when it is best to change it. I replaced mine at 140K, it was not falling apart, but had a lot of cracks.

Good luck

Boris
 
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Harmonic Balencers go out every few years, as much because of age as miles.

The rubber between the rings starts to crack, and then spit out, letting the outer ring move. Sometimes it moves 'back' and hits the timing cover or oil pan, other times it goes forward, takes out the belt and if you're unlucky the fan, putting it into the radiator.

It can be done from below if you can JUST squeeze it out, but typically its easiest to replace when the radiator is out - a tool bolts to the front of it, and that whole assembly moves forward - so you need a lot of space in front of the engine.
 
I would definitely replace the harmonic balancer.

Personally, I wouldn't unless the thing is losing the rubber, like so:

Comanche001.jpg



you can check your rod bearings as well
.

When I replaced my RMS and pan gasket I regretted not replacing my oil pump...it's 21 years old fer christsake. Easy to do, not expensive, peace of mind.
 
gotchya, now that makes sense. ill have a look at that next time im under the jeep and see how it looks
 
front and rear main seals & oil pump esp since u have that many miles id consider it cheap insurance and the seals are a no brainer. Let me tell you, taking that pan off is a fairly PITA job and the seals are cheap and easy to replace. just my two cents
 
actually getting it off can be very hard. its like they are glued on.
 
actually getting it off can be very hard. its like they are glued on.


oh thats the easy part, this pan is beat to <POOPIE>, so ill just pull out the big mallet to break er free :gee: since its getting replaced anyway
 
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Sorry, I guess I read too much into your post.

The HB has a rubber component between the center part and the outer ring (both metal, I think), that with time ages and cracks. If you wait too late it would separate and would shred your accessory belt, which means you wouldnt be able to get home. Even if you had a spare belt, you wouldnt be able to install it without changing the HB.

You might want to ask others when it is best to change it. I replaced mine at 140K, it was not falling apart, but had a lot of cracks.

Good luck

Boris
I actually found a picture from the time when I changed mine. I am sure there is a writeup somewhere, I am usually good at posting those after a project...

This is what I was talking about earlier. The center bolt of the puller was much longer than needed. I went and rented almost an identical one but with a shorter bolt. You can also see how cracked my rubber ring was before I changed it with a new HB.

There are three threaded holes in the HB. The bolts go in there (the shiny ones), while by turning the center bolt, you pull out the HB, just like an ordinary puller...well, you see only two bolts on the first picture, coz I knew that it wouldnt work and took pictures to illustrate my point...:)

HTH

Boris

PICT7089.jpg


PICT7088.jpg
 
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