made some tow hook mounts...

ericfx1984 · May 23, 2011

took an hour or so... but here they are... all mounted through the frame with 1/2" grade 8 hardware and with a 1/4" plate steel backing plate on the other side

front

for this I made a bracket... drill out the original bumper hole and drilled through to the other side of the frame... there was a unused hole that I decided to use... and I used a 1/4" plate on the other side of the frame

for the rear I plan to make a similar bracket... but for now it should work... it goes all the way though the frame and has a 1/4" plate steel backing plate

you can't see the backing plate very well in this pic but you get the idea

Frank Z · May 23, 2011

The rears will tear out very easily and to be very blunt, I'd be very leary of the front ones too.

You really need to increase the length of your mounting plate and pick up more holes.

It's a start, but for your safety, re-think the design or invest in some OEM mounts from your favorite JY.

ericfx1984 · May 23, 2011

thanks for the advice... you think welding them in would help?

that is kinda what I was thinking, more mounting holes and spread it out more

I am planning on making a similar mounting plate for the rear

but I do think that the backing plates provide some clamping pressure... that should help out some

Frank Z · May 23, 2011

I'd replace the rear hooks with a rear bumper that has tow points or even a receiver hitch. Add a recovery shackle to the receiver and you're golden.

Regarding the front, having the unibody sandwiched with 2 plates will help, but increasing the overall length to help spread the load is even better.

Also, think about adding a few gussets to help support the horizontal plate by securing it to the vertical plate.

Remember that proper joint prep (45 deg. bevel) will help you achieve a much stronger joint....and turn your heat up some more.

:thumbup::thumbup:

Tim_MN · May 23, 2011

At the very minimum to have safe and secure recovery points, you need to replicate the stock tow hook mounting brackets. Adding more frame holes, similar to brackets like JCR sells, increases the strength and safety of your tow points. A tow hook that pulls loose from the body is a 3+ lbs bullet. Install a Class III hitch for rear recovery.

.

.

VAhasnoWAVES · May 23, 2011

Take a look at the JCR brackets. See the 7 holes per side? Use them all. don't bother building or buying anything that mimics the stock tow hook bracket. Any real pull will bend them and your frame rail. Mine did both on the first outing.

RCP Phx · May 23, 2011

Also not a good project to practice your welding skills! Start on a non-structural mods.

ericfx1984 · May 23, 2011

in hat last pic it looks like they ripped the bumper off...

ericfx1984 · May 23, 2011

RCP Phx said:
Also not a good project to practice your welding skills! Start on a non-structural mods.

thanks for the advice... my buddy's dad, who has been a welder/fabricator for a LONG LONG time (close to 40 years), says the welds are fine... as for the brackets/braces he agrees those should be longer and have more mounting points, but he also says sandwiching the frame can/will help out quite a bit

he told me that the sandwich idea basically makes 1 mounting point almost as strong as 2 mounting points, BUT that it is not replacement for a longer bracket with more mounting points

MoparManiac · May 23, 2011

Sandwiching the frame without using crush sleeves is useless.

You're just going to crush the frame rail and never be able to torque the bolts down tight enough to do anything.

FlexdXJ · May 23, 2011

ericfx1984 said:
thanks for the advice... you think welding them in would help?

No, look at the designs from different companies for to hook mounts and build something similar. For pulls up front you reallt need to tie it back into the 4th hole that is utilized in the kits. 3 is dangerous and 2 mounting holes is SCARY, IMHO.

ericfx1984 · May 23, 2011

FlexdXJ said:
No, look at the designs from different companies for to hook mounts and build something similar. For pulls up front you reallt need to tie it back into the 4th hole that is utilized in the kits. 3 is dangerous and 2 mounting holes is SCARY, IMHO.

which 4th hole is this?

souske · May 23, 2011

The fourth hole would be number 11 on the exploded parts diagram

ericfx1984 · May 23, 2011

souske said:
The fourth hole would be number 11 on the exploded parts diagram

is this it?

ericfx1984 · May 23, 2011

I am doing this as we speak...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/custom-high-mount-reciever-mini-write-up-406483/

FlexdXJ · May 23, 2011

ericfx1984 said:
is this it?

Winner, winner Chicken dinner!

RCP Phx · May 23, 2011

As already pictured(top pic),this is what you should be making,minimum.If you intend to use shackles/bumper you add length to the front.These are the ones I made for my 95's winch bumper(bottom pic).

ericfx1984 · May 24, 2011

RCP Phx said:
As already pictured(top pic),this is what you should be making,minimum.If you intend to use shackles/bumper you add length to the front.These are the ones I made for my 95's winch bumper(bottom pic).

they look nice

ericfx1984 · May 24, 2011

ok here is my new rear recovery solution

Frank Z · May 24, 2011

Winner!!

made some tow hook mounts...

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