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horrible wobble

davidson99XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Greensburg IN
my jeep had a little bit of a wobble to it when i got it. it only had a rocky road outfitters budget lift with 2" wheel spacers. well when i recently jacked it up to take off the tires and install my new lift i discovered both front wheel bearings are bad. since my new lift i have noticed a horrible wobble when i hit a bump going down the road??? something to do with the lift or just the wheel bearings being shot?
 
Here ya go. This was in a thread on the next page...


The first steps to eliminate death wobble should be a visual inspection of each component, check the bushings, tire balance and an alignment. These are some common things you must check anytime you lift your Jeep. Death wobble is experienced mostly on lifter Jeeps, however it is not uncommon for someone without a lift to experience the dreaded DW. Listed below are a few things you can check.

Check your Track Bar, play in this can cause the axle to shake.
1. Bushings - check to see that they are not worn. Looks for cracks, and excessive play)
2. Angles - this angle should be the same as your draglink. Use an angle finders you can get at sears to determine this, don’t just eye-ball it.
3. Bolts – Make sure all bolts are tightened down to spec (some lift components have a different torque spec then)

Check the Axle, your mounts may be worn
1. Check the axle mount. Here is a good write up on a wallowed out bolt hole
http://www.jeepin.com/features/trackbarfix/index.asp
2. Check your Universal joints, a binding or lose U-Joint can cause DW
3. On the frame end if you still use the conventional Tie Rod End or (TRE) make sure that there is no play in this, as play can cause DW.
4. Look/Check for worn/torn boots on ball joints/tie-rod ends.

Check your Tires
1. Out of balance tires can cause shaking in the front end, which can lead to death wobble.
2. Make sure all of your lug nuts are tight, (Sounds elementary but it happens to the best of us)

Check your Frame
1. Small cracks in the frame can cause the steering box to feel loose, Shaking from DW can only make this worse. 33’s and larger should have some form of Steering box brace, or frame brace in.
2. If you have upgraded your frame mount, make sure its cranked down nice and tight. (best to use an impact gun)
3. A busted Frame Mount can cause play in the front end causing DW (Keep a watchful eye on the welds as welds in sheer can break over time.

Make sure you have a good alignment
1. After you get an alignment done, have them print out the numbers for you. An XJ should have a 7* positive caster angle. A lifted XJ can’t always have that high of a number because the pinion would become out of alignment with the front driveshaft. Pinion angle takes precedence over caster.
2. Make you sure you go to a place that will adjust the caster if necessary (either by shims in the frame side of the LCAs, or adjustable LCAs).

The more adjustable parts the easier it is to tune in your suspension.
1. Adjustable Track Bar
2. Adjustable Upper and Lower Control Arms (upper ones above 4” of lift). Not only are they adjustable, but they are stronger.


Things to remember:
1. After any lift, get your Jeep professionally aligned, this is a REQUIREMENT, not a suggestion.
2. A Steering Stabilizer (SS) is not a quick fix for DW.
3. Make sure that the lift you purchase comes with all the required parts for a safe driving vehicle. (as long as its going to be a DD)
4. PLEASE ALWAYS DRIVE WITH YOUR FRONT SWAY BAR CONNECTED!

Entire list of everything that can cause death wobble:

-Front tires out of balance
-Front alignment out of spec
-Loose track bar
-Worn track bar bushings
-Worn track bar end
-Needing an adjustable track bar
-Bad bushings/joints in control arms
-Worn/damaged steering stabilizer
-Worn/damaged shocks
-Worn/damaged tie rod end
-Bad U Joint
-Bad ball joint
-Loose frame mount
-Steering box looseness
-Need drop pitman arm
-Driveshaft(s) not balanced
-Bad front hub assembly


Torque specs:

Item ........................................ Ft. lbs. ................... Nm

Lug nuts (1/2 X 20 w/ 60* cone) .... 85-115 .............. 115-150
All tie rod ends .....................…..... 55 ...................….. 74
Steering (both ends) ..............…..... 55 ................….... 74
Shock absorber upper nut .............. 16 ................….... 22
Shock absorber lower nuts ............. 17 ................….... 23
UCA frame end .....................…...... 66 ..............…..... 89
UCA axle end .........................….... 55 ................….... 74
LCA frame end ......................…..... 85 ...................... 115
LCA axle end .........................….... 85 ...................... 115
Track bar frame end ..............…..... 60 .................…... 81
Track bar axle end .................….... 40 ..................…... 54
Track bar bracket bolts ..........…..... 92 ...................... 125
Track bar bracket nut .............….... 74 ....................... 100
Track bar bracket support bolts ...... 31 ....................... 42
Hub bolts (3) ............................…. 75 ....................... 102
Hub- axle bolt ..........................….. 175 ..................... 237



Information provided by Jeeps Unlimited
 
Thanks for the info. I figured it was the bearings but just wanted to see what some others to look for was. My first jeep was already built when I bought it. This is my first actual build on my own so still learning. And the tires are brand radial firestone destination mt. Which r fs or trade. Have 33 and want 32.
 
Alright. So the jeep still has a wobble. Between 40 and 50 new serious off road UTK re adjustable track bar new wheel bearings....what is it? My mechanic is still telling me I need a drop pitman arm
 
if your angles are parallel (tie rod and drag link) then adding a drop pitman arm will be doing the opposite of what you want. regardless, sub par angles should cause bump steer, and not death wobble.

BJs?
control arm bushings?
steering box?
castor?
 
The angles are just a little off so I'm going to try the 1" drop pa I have. And one bj on driver side has a little play not much tho. But replacing it Tuesday. The bumpsteer is about gone. Just wobbles at higher speeds. I'm about out of ideas. The control atm bushings should be good seeing they don't have 5000 miles on them yet. If the pa and bj doesn't work looks like I'm getting a durango steering box. And if that don't work hey at least I have a lot of good upgraded parts lol
 
Well if this helps any here ya go
IMAG0094.jpg
 
So its going into the shop tomorrow for new ball joints and alignment. I printed off lowranges post with all the info. Should I try the 1" drop pitman arm? Judging from the pic what do you guys think?
 
Lay under your vehicle and have a buddy turn the wheels while you look at your track bar bracket.

Mine was moving around quite a bit and it was because the bolts were shot and the frame holes were wallowed out.

I fixed this when installing my new track bar and it really fixed a ton of issues in my front end.
 
I just changed my track bar and brack not too long ago and never noticed anything. Put it all on with a impact so i know its tight
 
I just changed my track bar and brack not too long ago and never noticed anything. Put it all on with a impact so i know its tight
did you recheck it after 50 miles like RE says to?

itll loosen up, and thats what will cause the frame side mount to wallow out. thats why i made my 1600 bar double sheer. also, after time, the threads on the stock bolt worn down, and the axle side track bar mount, bolt, and bushing sleeve in the RE track bar all became different sizes. i drilled everything to match and added a new bolt. has been fine since.

another note, dont just tighten things "tight as hell" with an impact. thats not the way to do it. things like bushings and joints have a proper torque setting for a reason. i thought you said you were a mechanic? :rtm:









concerning the pitman arm, i wouldnt add it. itll just make your angles worse. it appears to me you need to lower the frame side track bar mount.

call up clayton.
 
It seems like a common issue with the bracket bolts.

Also, take a look at the TRE style joint you have in there. Your track bar is not bent like a stocker and maybe the angle wore the TRE at the frame side mount is worn out.

Most guys I see using a straight track bar are also using a double sheer bracket.

FWIW I had to tighten my track bar brackets on both side 3 times with a torque wrench before it stayed tight. After driving they will loosen up
 
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I thought the stock bracket used a TRE style joint?
 
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