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Chrysler 8.25 truss Q

rockclimber

rockclimber

Associate
NAXJA Member
Location
San Diego
anyone out there trussed their Chryco?

I am planning on this in the near future and wondering what you did about the vent and brake line.

my original plan was to drill a hole in the top of the truss for the vent tube and just run the hose through it, and then mount the brake lines to the top of the truss and re-bend them.

I see no reason why the breather and brake lines have to be together, I can easily just weld a nut to the inside of the truss and bolt the brake line splitter block to it...


well, anyone with actual experience on the 8.25 have any thoughts?
 
I trussed mine. I used the RuffStuff medium duty truss and tied it into a RuffStuff cover for more strength. I extended the truss out ward on the tubes for more strenght and it just "looks better". I added a traction bar mount to the front of the truss but I still havent gotten around to building it yet.

My 8.25 is shaved even with the RS cover and I have Yukon alloy shafts and a Aussie Locker.

P1020216.jpg


P1020223.jpg


P1020149.jpg


P1020281.jpg


P1020276.jpg
 
rockclimber said:
anyone out there trussed their Chryco?

I am planning on this in the near future and wondering what you did about the vent and brake line.

my original plan was to drill a hole in the top of the truss for the vent tube and just run the hose through it, and then mount the brake lines to the top of the truss and re-bend them.

I see no reason why the breather and brake lines have to be together, I can easily just weld a nut to the inside of the truss and bolt the brake line splitter block to it...


well, anyone with actual experience on the 8.25 have any thoughts?
Click to expand...

I ran a vent tube through my truss and I bolted the splitter on the truss. I made new brake lines to run u and over the truss.

Its fairly simple and straight forward
 
xjtrailrider said:
I ran a vent tube through my truss and I bolted the splitter on the truss. I made new brake lines to run u and over the truss.

Its fairly simple and straight forward
Click to expand...

cool. thanks, thats pretty much my plan.

although my truss will extend from spring plate to spring plate. I will probably just re-use the stock lines and bend them around to fit.
 
That was my original plan but I found the RS truss and liked the way it was made. The main hoop is made of 3/8" steel and the outer (square tubing part of the truss) is made of 3/16". I had two main goals for a truss; 1)to strengthen the center section and reduce ring gear deflection 2) A solid place to attach a traction bar mount(to eliminate axle wrap)

The RS fit the bill for both objectives for a good price. I already had the RS cover and it is pure beef. I connected the cover to the truss with 1/4" steel and (2) 3/8"x24 grade 8 bolts. Its not going anywhere until I need it too.
 
Iron Rock Offroad has a cheap and easy truss for the C8.25 rear. If you want something basic, I'd say that's a good way to go. I probably should get one someday with the way I treat my Jeep.
 
sunburned said:
Iron Rock Offroad has a cheap and easy truss for the C8.25 rear. If you want something basic, I'd say that's a good way to go. I probably should get one someday with the way I treat my Jeep.
Click to expand...

the truss is not what I was worried about. its dealing with all the other minor issues like vents and brakelines that I want to get sorted before I get started.

the truck is still my DD so I can't take it off the road for more than a day ar two, and since I'm going to pull the axle to do the shock mounts, truss, and cover I would like to get the details worked out before I get started so I can make the process as fast and as painless as possible

as far as truss's go I'm not planning on buying one, where's the fun in that when I can easily fab one in a day or 2. I dont need to spend 100$ or more on a pre-fab truss that won't fit how I want it to.
 
oh yeah. vents and brakelines can be easy. you can weld up your stock breather, and relocate it anywhere you want on the top half of the axle.... i even ran it one inch from the top of my diff cover. i tap for a 1/8 NPT-> -6 aluminum adapter.





i run my truss' like this, that way you can re-use the stock hardline for drum brakes, or run your own protected inside. if you are doing ANY fab work on an 8.25... check the shock mounts, as they are welded on half assed on every 8.25 ive seen (granted not that many, but compared to d44's, its night and day) i'd replace em, or at least finish welding them on.
 
xcm said:
. if you are doing ANY fab work on an 8.25... check the shock mounts, as they are welded on half assed on every 8.25 ive seen (granted not that many, but compared to d44's, its night and day) i'd replace em, or at least finish welding them on.
Click to expand...

my stock mounts are getting replaced with ruffstuff mounts, but I have noticed they aren't fully welded.

I guess I will leave the breather were it is, I see no reason to move it. and I will be re-using the stock brake hardlines for now so I'll just have to bend them to fit around the truss.

Thanks.



next Q have you guys run into any warping problems welding the trusses on.

my plan is to tack in place with heavy tacks and then do 1" beads alternating side-side and front-back giving time to cool in between...

thoughts?
 
rockclimber said:
the truss is not what I was worried about. its dealing with all the other minor issues like vents and brakelines that I want to get sorted before I get started.

the truck is still my DD so I can't take it off the road for more than a day ar two, and since I'm going to pull the axle to do the shock mounts, truss, and cover I would like to get the details worked out before I get started so I can make the process as fast and as painless as possible

as far as truss's go I'm not planning on buying one, where's the fun in that when I can easily fab one in a day or 2. I dont need to spend 100$ or more on a pre-fab truss that won't fit how I want it to.
Click to expand...

And apparently you didn't look at the truss I was talking about. It's nothing crazy and not boxed in, but it will give you plenty of strength in the vertical plane by bracing the sides together down pretty much the entire tubes. Since its just a single piece of steel, it's easy to trim a small spot to go over the brake lines or whatever you need.

If this was a 1-ton axle or you were mounting upper links of a 4-link to the truss, I would say build something crazy with box tubing like the above guys did. With a stock axle and less than 35" tires, I think just a little added strength will be plenty.

You complain that you only have a day or so to get everything done, but then you want to fab something up yourself. Sometimes its worth it to buy something pre-fab to save you time and effort. All the guys that do crazy build-ups usually don't make all their tabs and brackets and whatnot. I'd rather spend $1 a piece on tabs instead of cutting out 15 of them individually.
 
sunburned said:
And apparently you didn't look at the truss I was talking about. It's nothing crazy and not boxed in, but it will give you plenty of strength in the vertical plane by bracing the sides together down pretty much the entire tubes. Since its just a single piece of steel, it's easy to trim a small spot to go over the brake lines or whatever you need.

If this was a 1-ton axle or you were mounting upper links of a 4-link to the truss, I would say build something crazy with box tubing like the above guys did. With a stock axle and less than 35" tires, I think just a little added strength will be plenty.

You complain that you only have a day or so to get everything done, but then you want to fab something up yourself. Sometimes its worth it to buy something pre-fab to save you time and effort. All the guys that do crazy build-ups usually don't make all their tabs and brackets and whatnot. I'd rather spend $1 a piece on tabs instead of cutting out 15 of them individually.
Click to expand...


no, I do plan on linking the rear in the future and going with 35"s... this truss will eventually serve as a place to mount upper links and coilovers.

I could have more than a day or 2, but I like to have everything planned out.

the actual truss fab won't take more than a couple of hours with the axle out and the plasma :viking:

and there is a huge difference between buying laser cut tabs at .095$ or so, and a 100+$ truss system made from 30$ in steel....

besides, I am in the process of honing my fab skills to undertake a 3link front build... this is a perfect opportunity to practice goofing off with the toys :rof:
 
No truss, I took between 1/2-1" off the bottom though. Probably won't go over a 33" tire on this, so I just wanted to pick up the clearance. Just a thought if you're going to be working on it.

IMG_3451.jpg
 
DeftwillP said:
What did you use to shave the pumpkin?
Click to expand...

drained it, bolted the cover back on, used a cutoff wheel to take the straight lip off the bottom, which was about 1/2" of metal. Then switched to a grind wheel to take out the semi-circle reliefs at 4:00 and 8:00, then smoothed the whole thing out with the grind wheel. Took the cover off, and took a little more material off of it, so that it wasn't flush, but just above the bottom of the pumpkin.
Probably could have taken off twice what I did, but I can always go back and take more off, and I still have a good amount of sealing surface at the bottom bolt.
I still want to replace the hex heads with allen bolts.
 
deucestudios said:
drained it, bolted the cover back on, used a cutoff wheel to take the straight lip off the bottom, which was about 1/2" of metal. Then switched to a grind wheel to take out the semi-circle reliefs at 4:00 and 8:00, then smoothed the whole thing out with the grind wheel. Took the cover off, and took a little more material off of it, so that it wasn't flush, but just above the bottom of the pumpkin.
Probably could have taken off twice what I did, but I can always go back and take more off, and I still have a good amount of sealing surface at the bottom bolt.
I still want to replace the hex heads with allen bolts.
Click to expand...


I hope you did not leave the bottom of the cover below the lip of the pumpkin to catch on rocks that would peel the cover off. May I read into your post wrong.
 
deucestudios said:
drained it, bolted the cover back on, used a cutoff wheel to take the straight lip off the bottom, which was about 1/2" of metal. Then switched to a grind wheel to take out the semi-circle reliefs at 4:00 and 8:00, then smoothed the whole thing out with the grind wheel. Took the cover off, and took a little more material off of it, so that it wasn't flush, but just above the bottom of the pumpkin.
Probably could have taken off twice what I did, but I can always go back and take more off, and I still have a good amount of sealing surface at the bottom bolt.
I still want to replace the hex heads with allen bolts.
Click to expand...

techno1154 said:
I hope you did not leave the bottom of the cover below the lip of the pumpkin to catch on rocks that would peel the cover off. May I read into your post wrong.
Click to expand...


could be a little confusing wording but im guessing thats what he is saying he did right there
 
I'm pretty sure he trimmed the cover so it was not flush, not the diff.
 
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