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auburn limited slip

jeeptec

NAXJA Forum User
ok i did a search only came up with some old for sale threads.is anyone running an Auburn limited slip in the 8 1/4. how do you like it. is it stronger than the factory limited slip. i know its is limited slip and wont lock like a locker
 
I had a factory Trac Lok on my 8.25, which grenaded the clutch pack within 3 years. I replaced it with an Auburn unit, because that was about the only 8.25 alternative at the time. The Auburn pretty much did what it was suppose to as a limit sllip. I later sold my 8.25, and bought a built D44.

If you're sold on an Auburn Limit Slip for your 8,25, thne you might also want to consider a Detroit True Trac. Plus you won't need the oil additive like you would on the Auburn.
 
I have an Auburn in the back of mine('00, 8.25) Installed it in '04. Like Ivan, I got it because at the time, it was the best option available for the 8.25. Mine has been great to me. 'Has about 50K on it, and still works properly. I have a lot of light wheeling and a few hard trips on it. I'm happy with it.

IF I was doing it again, I'd get a truetrac for the rear(I have a truetrac in the front axle)
Between the two, the TT seems to have higher torque transfer between the wheels then the Auburn. Also, the TT locks harder when you left-foot brake then the auburn will using the E-brake ('might be due to higher brake forces available to the front brakes then the E-brake, Don't know, but it only takes a light tap to lock the front, whereas the rear requires enough E-brake application to stop the vehicle before you power out of it)
As Ivan said, the TT doesn't require the friction modifier in the oil, also has no wear parts.

In a sense, both the TT and the Auburn are "throw away" diffs. in that when the cone-clutches go bad in an Auburn, it can't be re-built, and while a TT will never "wear out", if you break something inside, it tends to ruin the case.
 
Huh? Last I knew, Auburn had a program running to rebuild these limited slips, but it did require that it get sent back, it's not rebuildable by us. I've got the better part of 200k on mine, and it's still working reasonably well.
 
The d-rex program is news to me. It's even better then their old program. (They used to give a credit about 1/3 the new price if you were replacing a worn out unit in a certain time frame.) 'Wouldn't matter to me either way, as my unit way out-lasted the warranty.
I wasn't knocking the Auburn when I said it wasn't rebuild-able. Like I said, mine has worked great.

One other thing I might add: My XJ's had 225-75 x 15 tires for most of it's life. It got 30x9.50-15 about 12K ago. So while I've had a great time, it's been in a small-tired XJ. How well the clutches would lock/last on bigger tires, I don't know.
 
I wore out my first Auburn during the "snowcopalypse"--my 2wd was in it everyday looking for the next hill to climb and corner to drift around. Mine qualified for the d-rex program and I got a new one sent to me for $127(kudos to the Auburn customer service). Adding friction modifier when changing out the fluid is not that hard. . .I will never own a one-legged jeep, car, or truck!
 
Anything works better than an OE Dana Trac Loc. In all seriousness, I've heard that they lock up fast and tight. My buddy has one on his Chevy Blazer (the newer, smaller Blazer) and I can't get him to shut up about how great it is.
 
a TT will never "wear out"

I just want to add my 2cents. The true trac can, and will wear out. If you've ever cracked one open, you'll see what I mean. I have opened several and they all have a common wear problem.

What causes the wear:

The two bevel spring system seems to work well, but causes the outer gears to wear against the casing. Not only does the casing start to wear, but the spring pressure decreases thus reducing the diff's ability to limit torque transfer. My plan is to machine the casing havles to remove the scoring, and install roller thrust bearings to eliminate the wear problem. It might sound like a lot of work, but I already have it...and I'm curious. I'll have a full write up soon.:D

fab019.jpg


A close up of the wear...
fab018.jpg


And the gear face that is wearing against the housing...
fab020.jpg


This is one of the cam bearings that exerts pressure to the gear
fab023.jpg


At the center of it all are two bevel washers that compress once the case ends are bolted to the center section. These washers act like the springs in a traditional LSD exerting pressure to both inner gears. Without them, the diff operates just like any other open diff. The benefit of having the six worm gears are simply that they allow a stronger 1 peice center section and more gear area to distribute the load.

fab024.jpg


fab025.jpg


Intermediate Worm gears
fab022.jpg


center section
fab021.jpg


As for the auburn, they definetly have the highest quality clutch pack LSDs. It should work well for you if thats what your after. :cheers:
 
i had a True trac in the front of my 87. it worked pretty good if all the wheels were on the ground. if i lifted a front wheel I.E. rock crawling the wheel with out traction would spin.even playing the brake game would sometimes get the other wheel with traction to move . i even disassembled mine and added a shim that didn't seem to help. i ended up putting a Ausie locker in the front. works good for what i need.
 
I have a Camaro that was equipped with a Auburn in the rear when I purchased it. Not a jeep, I know. The engine is putting out appraximately 400 horses, and after nearly twenty years and some pretty fair abuse the Auburn has never failed. I would feel pretty confident having this same setup in the rear on my XJ.
 
I had a factory Trac Lok on my 8.25, which grenaded the clutch pack within 3 years. I replaced it with an Auburn unit, because that was about the only 8.25 alternative at the time. The Auburn pretty much did what it was suppose to as a limit sllip. I later sold my 8.25, and bought a built D44.

If you're sold on an Auburn Limit Slip for your 8,25, thne you might also want to consider a Detroit True Trac. Plus you won't need the oil additive like you would on the Auburn.

And I bought Ivan's axle. I don't daily drive it anymore but wheel it quite a bit on some difficult trails. It hooks up quite well but is no locker. I have only run into two times when it let me down, steep rocky off camber climbs, but with that said it has exceeded my expectations.

If I were to get another unit in there it would be a selectable locker. I think the aussie/auburn combo has been a winning combo thus far and don't see me making a change for a while.
 
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