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Rear Pinion Bearing - Who replaces these.

Grimm5577

NAXJA Forum User
Location
PA
I think my rear pinion bearing is on it's way out. Where can i take this to get fixed. I called Cottman and they don't do that. Or is it better to just replace the whole axle?

Thanks in advance.
 
Do you have any gearing shops around? in slc we have one called advanced 4wd. Any 4wd repair shop should be able to.

As for replacing the whole axle- thats your call. I put a 44 in when my 35's pinion seal went but its not that big of a deal to replace.
 
I'll have to look around for gearing shops. I've never needed one before so i'm not sure whats local.

I figure replacing the axle would probably cost a bit more for parts but be much cheaper in labor, I Imagine I can do the swap on my own. I would be very hesitant to overhaul the diff on my own and as it stands now i don't know many people in the jeep community to be able to ask someone for help.
 
Swapping to a D44 or 8.25 will be cheaper and you can do it yourself. Any Good transmission shop could do the work, at 3-4 times the cost of a swap.

I've just found this out. A local shop quoted me at $630 for parts and labor on the re-build. I've found used axles anywhere from $275 with a locker to $100.

My next question i guess would be, what would be the best to swap in? is the D44 much better than the D35? which gets better mpg? will i need any other parts besides the axle?
 
I don't understand, you want to replace a used axle with another used axle? Wouldn't the chance the replacement used axle having an issue be pretty high. What if the replacement axle goes 500 miles then has an issue, would you just swap that one out also?

I'm not saying keep the old d35 but I would never just drop a used axle or anything used in without rebuilding it. You are replacing used item with another used item only the replacement has an unknown history.
 
I've just found this out. A local shop quoted me at $630 for parts and labor on the re-build. I've found used axles anywhere from $275 with a locker to $100.
My next question i guess would be, what would be the best to swap in? is the D44 much better than the D35? which gets better mpg? will i need any other parts besides the axle?

8.8 or 44 would be the best cantidates, followed closely by a 29 spl 8.25.
See this thread: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101345

The 8.8 will requires some welding, but why not rotate your perches properly when swapping in a new axle anyway vs. shims. As far as mpg, there should be no noticeable difference. In theory the 35 would have better mileage due to it lesser weight, but we are really splitting hairs there.

I don't understand, you want to replace a used axle with another used axle? Wouldn't the chance the replacement used axle having an issue be pretty high.

I dont think so, since the axle can be inspected at the j/y and the best one chosen. It seems most members here just change the oil and add a traction device if deemed neccesary. No issue on my 3rd owner 8.8 ( came off an XJ in the junkyard) So I guess it all really comes down to what your time is worth
 
Thanks again, saddly i think i have more than just a rear axle problem. Today when i got home i noticed some oil/tranny fluid leaking from the back of the AW4. is this the slip yoke?

Below is a photo.
http://www.ludwigbrewing.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG00110-20110502-1919.jpg

fluid level seemed fine, maybe just slightly over filled. Cold it have blown a seal? or could this be the source of what I thought was a rear diff bearing going bad? they symptoms are a rubbing, wearing sound when accelerating, goes away when coasting, after driving on the highway for a while it starts to whine some what loudly. After an hour drive I also noticed a constant hum coming from the back. It went away when I turned off the motor.
 
A Timken pinion and carrier bearing kit for that rear is only about $80. It's not really super hard as long as you can get someone to swap the bearings on the pinion and carrier for you as I am guessing you don't have a press. Most auto shops will do this for peanuts. You also are very unlikely to have to do any kind of gear setup if you are re-using the ring and pinion. Just make sure you put the same shims in that you take out and it can be a simple parts swap.

On the other end (TC) you could also do the output shaft bearing and seal and probably be OK I would guess but who knows without actually being there to check it out. Just doing the seal may be enough to keep it from leaking.

As an aside, I don't see how turning off the motor affects driveline noises.
 
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Thanks Broken, I'll take a look for those kits. and try to research replacing the seal on the output shaft. the AW4 runs pretty smooth, and quiet from what i can tell so hopefully it's just the seal.

The noise is a complete mystery to me. I've only heard it after highway driving for about an hour. It's probably not related at all, it's quite possible the exhaust, although that's brand new.
 
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