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Radius arms and similar suspension - how does it ride on the street?

Finaltheorem47

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Virginia
Hi guys, I've done a lot of searching but am having trouble finding an answer to my question. I have a '92 XJ with a 4.5" lift and 33" tires. I want to have it handle better on the street and reduce the NVH. My control arms are angled at like 45* which translates a lot of NVH into my body, even with rubber bushings. I do offroad, but truth be told, 95% of the miles put on it are from street driving (being that its my DD).

I am thinking about building a long arm setup and was considering a radius arm with track bar or 4 link setup with a track bar (like stock). I am more concerned with increasing its street handling and comfort rather than offroad, as for where I tend to offroad, I find the stock suspension somewhat adequate. I figure long arms would improve my offroad handling no matter what, for the terrain I tend to offroad on.

The radius arms are simple to construct, but as the suspension oscillates, it's caster will change, where a properly setup 4 link wouldn't. Observing what most car manf. tend to use, I would note that 4 link is common and radius arms are very rare. This tends to make me want to think that 4 links are superior for on road. It is important to note that the upper links I have noticed tend to be 10-30% shorter on 4 link OE suspensions. Whether this is done to increase the caster while oscillating upward for more control (same with A-arms on other suspensions, the upper is always smaller/shorter than the lower) or if it is done because of space requirements. With A-arms, it wouldn't change the camber when it oscillates but rather the caster.

I am troubled by how I would be able to tuck a 4 link suspension up close to the body however, as the upper links would need to stay equally spaced apart as they are from the axle end. The alternative is to use short upper control arms and long lower control arms. That would however also affect the caster as the suspension oscillates and using a short upper I can imagine would be counter productive somewhat as my goals are to reduce NVH and increase handling.

I am curious if I can get away with the caster changes in radius arms if they are long enough... I plan to tie them into my crossmember for the transmission.

Thanks!

-Joe
 
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at 4.5" you can get away with using control arm drop brackets and get away pretty cheap doing so. Might be something to check out as you say most of your wheeling you are fine with the stock setup.
 
I am troubled by how I would be able to tuck a 4 link suspension up close to the body however, as the upper links would need to stay equally spaced apart as they are from the axle end. The alternative is to use short upper control arms and long lower control arms. That would however also affect the caster as the suspension oscillates and using a short upper I can imagine would be counter productive somewhat as my goals are to reduce NVH and increase handling.

I am curious if I can get away with the caster changes in radius arms if they are long enough... I plan to tie them into my crossmember for the transmission.

Thanks!

-Joe
the teraflex long arm kit is a 4 link with stock uppers. i had this setup(4" lift with the upper modular arms) for about 4yrs and really liked the ride quality. the flex wasn't the best but worked,and the caster would change drastically when the suspension cycled. i just converted my teraflex longarms into a radius arm setup and am realy happy with the ride quality and flex.as for tying/mounting them to your crossmember i would personally recommend making a new heavier duty crossmember and tying in/reinforcing the subframe.there are alot of good write ups on making new 4link and radius arm setups here.this is just my own opinion on the crossmember. and x2 on the drop brackets.
testingnewsetup24inchesrearsonground.jpg
 
Thanks for your reply. I agree with your comment on the cross member and do plan on making a new one that is much beefier. The biggest problem I have with fabrication is that I tend to make things TOO overkill... My first bumper weighed about 90-110lbs and was made from 1/2" and 3/8" steel for the main parts. (cow pusher parts :p (note: no cows were harmed in the process of testing the bumper out, although I cannot say the same for several snow banks))

100_5560.jpg
 
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First,Ford has been doing Radius arms forever! As for caster change,its negligible during road driving.Ive built 2 sets of radius arms for my rigs,been 10yrs now with no issues at all.
 
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