• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Header install tips?

WAM174

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ridgecrest CA
Okay, I've got a Dynomax/Blackjack long-tube 3-2-1 header headed my way. What fun can I look forward to when I install this thing?

Should I remove any other engine pieces for access?
Do I need any weird tools to reach hard-to-see bolts?
What else am I going to find out the hard way?

All been-there-done-that tips appreciated.

Thanx, Bill
97 XJ 4.0 auto
 
fuel line quick connect tool.
patience
remove the ps pump bracket
remove the air box
soak the bolts in pb blaster for a day
an fsm helps with bolt locations and torque sequence.
 
Pull the fuel pump relay while the vehicle is running and let it stall out to depressurize the fuel system. Remove the air box. Don't disconnect the power steering hoses ad you can now set the pump where the air box was.

Did your header come with directions? I know my Thorley header had directions that recommend using copper RTV and a higher torque on the bolts.
 
To get the bottom row of bolts, nothing beats a set of wratcheting box-end wrenches. I don't think I could even get a regular socket on the bolts due to the tight fit of the header.
 
To get the bottom row of bolts, nothing beats a set of wratcheting box-end wrenches. I don't think I could even get a regular socket on the bolts due to the tight fit of the header.

X2 on the box end wrenches and get a universal joint for your ratchet, it will make getting to some of the topside bolts easier to get to. And as far as torquing the bolts to spec well good luck with that and props to anyone who could do it because with my Banks header there is literally absolutely no way to get a torque wrench on some of those bolts so I just got them as tight as I could.

There is quite a learning curve to this and different year XJs require a little bit different approach due to changes in like the fuel rail, power steering pump bracket, etc. But I can pull a header off my 97 in 45 mins now only because I have dealt with cracking even on the Banks header, however, the first time I did this it took me 2 days trying to figure out what all to take off and not having the right tools.
 
You can get the fuel line removal tool for just a few dollars at any parts store, you will need it as mentioned.

Someone might know which size the 97 line is?
 
Get the 5/16-3/8" combo disconnect tool. Fuel line is 5/16, trans lines are 3/8. Buy new O rings and clips for the fuel line. Dorman sells them, they typically come in a mix of the two sizes, so again, you'll have the parts/tool to address either size. The part numbers have been posted if you dig around a bit.

Ratcheting wrenches are good for lots of things on a Jeep, that's a very good suggestion. Also, get a socket with the built-in uni joint. I believe 9/16 is the size you need. I had to buy one online, and it was well worth the $10 or whatever I spent on Sears' website. Not sure how the Dynomax unit bolts up, but I couldn't get my mitts on two of the bolts with my APN header with anything but the wobble socket.

Both manifolds share the same gasket; I bought a FelPro when I put my newer intake/header on; I've had good luck with their stuff so far. IINM, the "Dynomax Blackjack" is a reboxed Pacesetter; if that's the case, I'd get a spare gasket just in case. My Pacesetter gaskets on a previous car were garbage. I wound up replacing a couple of them in short order.

Figure out what you'll need to do to the exhaust, get spare hardware for the flange if not included. Nothing else really stands out in my mind; most of the crucial stuff is covered above.

edit- QD tool, and the part numbers for the O rings/clips I needed. The type of clip used varied a bit over the years; these part numbers were right for mine, but don't look like some I've seen. The tool I use is the top one; the Lisle set was recommended in another thread, but I've never used them.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRD32/...N=B0002 SRD32

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...21x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=00946337000P

The Dorman/Help! replacement O rings are part number 800-013. Contains 2 5/16" (fuel line size) and 2 3/8" (trans cooler size). Replacement clips are 800-016 (same sizes as the O rings)
 
Last edited:
Back
Top