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Will it finally run???

Stukboy

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Lancaster, PA
So, last summer my XJ died on a trip to Rock Run in PA.
Since then I have'nt done much in the way of work or even trying to get it running.
Over the months I have replaced sensors to see if that was the issue all with no luck.
I replaced 2 crank sensors, cam sensor, distributer, cap and rotor, coil,throttle position sensor, MAP sensor.
All these things have resulted in it still not starting.
Well, this past Sunday I went To my Bro-in-laws and replaced the crank sensor with a mopar sensor.
I turned the key and it actually fired i8nstead of just cranking.

It then quickly stalled.

I started checking things out and determined there was spark from the coil through the coil wire to the distributer. Once there it lost spark. I played with the wire and once again get spark then it died.
It will run VERY rough sometimes with the key in the on position (cranking the starter)but then dies. This isn't always.
So i'm thinking I may have a defective cap and rotor.
I bought one today and am hoping to get out to install them this week.
Any other thoughts on a possible solution to my problem?
Setting it on fire isn't an option nor is selling it.
Stukboy

PS: I'm more optomistic than before because this is the closest to running it has been since last July.
 
So, I changed out the cap and rotor.
I turned the key a few times and it fired up. It then stalled.
I did this a few times and was able to keep it running. Sort of.
It runs VERY rough at idle and chokes out when I give it gas.
I sprayed some carb cleaner in the throttle body and it would run better for a second then choke out again.
The longest it has run is 1 min and 47 seconds. VERY rough I might add.
This is the closest to actually running it has been in 9 months.
I added a can of engine restore to the oil but haven't noticed any change.
What would you experts out there suggest I try next??

I did notice the air line ot top of the valve cover(in the back) is broken.
This line runs to the manifold. I assume it is some sort of vaccum since I put my finger on it is sucks it tight.
Would this have an affect on the rough run??
Thanx,
Stukboy
 
I say bad distributor. It sounds like you have literally replaced everything that could stop the engine from firing and the spark is lost at the distributor.
 
Yea, I guess Year and engine would help.

It's a 92 4.0.

Not the distributer. Been replaced and then a second cap and rotor.

So now it will idle VERY rough.
I'm now leaning toward a vaccum leak.
I seem to remember pulling the vaccum lines when I put my fuel cell in but honestly can't recall if I plugged the lines. It was getting dark and I didn't get under to check it out.
I also noticed several cracked vaccum lines arould the engine bay. The one on the fuel pressure regulator is real bad.
I'll be back to work on it Sunday.

Now i'll look at your advise.
Stukboy
 
...I'm now leaning toward a vaccum leak.
I seem to remember pulling the vaccum lines when I put my fuel cell in but honestly can't recall if I plugged the lines. It was getting dark and I didn't get under to check it out.
I also noticed several cracked vaccum lines arould the engine bay. The one on the fuel pressure regulator is real bad.
Both the line to the fuel pressure regulator and to the MAP sensor feel the same. Rough, erratic. It's also very possible that if you replaced the distributor, that it's a tooth off.
 
Mine did the same thing, and it was because the hose that goes from the pump to the hard line on the in tank unit was rotted out. it would idle but not run.

A vacuum leak would not keep it from running, it would idle high but still run. I would also lean towards the distributor being off a bit as ParadiseXJ mentioned since you replaced it. If you get a good squirt of fuel from the pressure relief valve on the rail after cranking I don't know what to tell ya. if it just dribbles out take a look at your fuel pump, it should shoot out almost to the fender when you push it in with a screwdriver/key.
 
Have you replaced the Idle Air Control valve then? My buddy's 94 had a similar issue with not running and we replaced a bunch of things but ultimately had it towed to a shop and the guy replaced the IAC and everything was fine.
 
It is ALIVE!!!!!

Turned out to be loose flexplate bolts. There were three that were only finger tight. The shop seems to think that each time it cranked it would throw diffarent codes to the computer and each time it would be diffarent.
Once they were tightened it started right up and continued to run.
It ran so well that I had it out last Saturday and it did great.
I didn't have one engine issue all day!!!!

I have to thank Brenner Jeep in Mechanicsburg, PA.

Not only did they fix it they donated all the time to do it.
About 20 hours.
I can't promise free repairs but I can promise they will fix it and you will be happy.
Well, that's the end of my story for now.
Stukboy
 
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