so i finally got my project to my house and once i got my gauges all hooked up, its got hot. it hit 210 and slowly kept climbing and would have gone to the red but i shut it down. and i noticed some oil on the side of the block. so i figured f-it i will just pull the head get it checked so my head was good. i put in a new thermostat had the radiator dipped and cleaned. new lower hose. new heater valve. so it should be good. and of coursed noticed that it popped a head gasket. so i bought new head bolts this time. so once i started it up again it got hot almost got to the red and i shut it down. my electric fan never kicked on when it got hot. i was just gonna hook it up to a switch. im putting a new water pump on today. and i think im gonna use one of thoughs aluminum spacers for the fan for a direct drive. just to see if it was my fan clutch. anyone else have any other ideas. im at at a loss and i dont wanna have to put my foot into the door. any help would be nice. thanks.
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over heating
- Thread starter Brfj666
- Start date
heavyequipment
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Near Tucson, AZ
Check your temp gauge. I've seen a lot of $ spent where nothing was wrong but the gauge.
heavyequipment
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Near Tucson, AZ
Could still be wiring... I'd still check the block temp with an infrared meter. Harbor Freight has them cheap.
What year specs are the jeep?
If the electric fan didn't kick on my suggestion would be that is your problem. Last year mine acted similar and when I jumped the electric fan it was not working correctly. Changed out the electric fan and presto good to go.
If the electric fan didn't kick on my suggestion would be that is your problem. Last year mine acted similar and when I jumped the electric fan it was not working correctly. Changed out the electric fan and presto good to go.
Mine was doing the same thing recently....the electric auxiliary fan was not coming on, causing overheating. So I wired it to a relay with a micro switch near my defrost switch. BIG difference and problem solved. Also, getting a full 12 volts to the auxiliary fan makes a big difference in the amount of air it moves.
I had also recently replaced coolant temp sensor, water pump and thermostat. My radiator is a 2-row all metal performance radiator. I was just not moving enough air.
I had also recently replaced coolant temp sensor, water pump and thermostat. My radiator is a 2-row all metal performance radiator. I was just not moving enough air.
thanks for the help. im wiring in a switch on my fan now. finally got it all back together and it ran a tid bit cooler but still got hot. around 230ish according to the gauge. so hopefully this fan will work. if not should i set it on fire or run it off a cliff?
NorCalChris
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Central Coast, Ca
that is wayy hot. is your ac condensor still installed? if your ac doesnt work remove the condensor because it can block LOTS of air flow. Make sure you are purging the coolant system properly, and double check the guage you installed to see if it might be bad.
yeah i know thats warm. and yes my ac condenser is still in i live in the southwest. and i think i have purged it properly now. got the fan hooked up on a switched half ass just to test it and it ran cooler for sure. but still seemed like it was warming up. and im pretty sure my gauges are good cause it seems like its to hot when it says it is. i will have to try and get a infared meter from harbor freight to double check my block temp. oh and i am just running water in it for now so i quit wasting coolant. but with coolant in it does it drop the temp down?
jap813
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- San Tan Valley, AZ
coolant has a higher boiling point than water, so in theory it should, because when water boils it makes steam and you could be getting a false reading from your gauge if it is picking up the steam temp and not the actual coolant temp
My next step this weekend, since I tow a boat or ATV just about every weekend is a transmission cooler. I bought a large, plate style trans cooler from Jegs+ a 7" fan off Ebay. I am making an aluminum shroud with the fan mounted on it. Mounting location will be behind the bumper. I figure taking the trans out of the cooling loop will really help. Also installing a trans temp gauge so I will be able to better evaluate all of the variables.
so now theres coolant in it and i have tryed burping the system. the front end is in the air right now. maybe i need a fan shroud? i currently dont have one. a upper radiator hose and the smaller ones that run to the heater core are about all i havent replaced. and since i have added coolant in it it doesnt seem like its going back to my tank, i filled my tank with water. i still have my old radiator cap but it seems like its in good shape. anymore help anyone? im at a loss everything is pretty much new now. and i have a external trans cooler already.
Last edited:
- Location
- In the islands
Did I miss it?...What year is your XJ?
If there are questions about the radiator cap replace it. The higher pressure in the cooling system reduces the boiling point.
What is the condition of the radiator? They have a useful life span. After that it should be replaced.
Check for blocking in front the radiator by bugs, mud, leaves etc. Check that there are no fins missing (the thin metal strip between the tubes) and that they are all straight.
Assuming you have a mechanical fan, What is the condition of the fan clutch? This too have a useful life span.
If there are questions about the radiator cap replace it. The higher pressure in the cooling system reduces the boiling point.
What is the condition of the radiator? They have a useful life span. After that it should be replaced.
Check for blocking in front the radiator by bugs, mud, leaves etc. Check that there are no fins missing (the thin metal strip between the tubes) and that they are all straight.
Assuming you have a mechanical fan, What is the condition of the fan clutch? This too have a useful life span.
NorCalChris
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Central Coast, Ca
First let me tell you what is in my jeep. %100 water, no fan shroud, no electric fan, napa aluminum replacement radiator. I do not have overheating issues. Only reason its like that is because I didn't have any coolant, but it is gettting coolant this after noon.
Run compressed air back through the radiator from the engine bay towards the grill, make sure you go straight on and not at an angle. Once youve blown out all the dirt, use water in the same manor. Now make sure your t-stat is in correctly and works. spin the water pump make sure its good and put your belt back on. You can run water for sake of checking a system. Now make sure your cap works good. Just go down and buy a new one, I always get the vented ones. I believe I have a 16lb? Not sure exactly. Other then that, if you decide to pull your radiator again, run water through it backwards to flush it. Also, while its out do the compressed air through the fins and then water.
Our cooling systems are pretty simplistic, make sure you have the heater on while purging air out of the system.
Run compressed air back through the radiator from the engine bay towards the grill, make sure you go straight on and not at an angle. Once youve blown out all the dirt, use water in the same manor. Now make sure your t-stat is in correctly and works. spin the water pump make sure its good and put your belt back on. You can run water for sake of checking a system. Now make sure your cap works good. Just go down and buy a new one, I always get the vented ones. I believe I have a 16lb? Not sure exactly. Other then that, if you decide to pull your radiator again, run water through it backwards to flush it. Also, while its out do the compressed air through the fins and then water.
Our cooling systems are pretty simplistic, make sure you have the heater on while purging air out of the system.
well my radiator should be fine. i had it chemical dipped and cleaned. they said everything was fine. finally put my new radiator cap on still the same b.s. i pulled codes on it, and it had a p1492 which said, Ambient/Batt Temp Sensor Volts Too High External temperature sensor input above acceptable voltage. that is what i found the code said on the internet. im still dont know wtf?
NorCalChris
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Central Coast, Ca
I found this by a quick search.
Found some info; Was for a battery temp sensor code on a 96 Cherokee. May be helpful here?
Check the battery temperature sensor wiring under the battery tray for damage.
2. If the battery temperature sensor circuit is open, the charging rate is reduced from what it should be in cold weather.
Check the battery temp. sensor and the wiring going to it.
2. The signal wire is a Pink/Yellow.
3. The ground is a Black/Light Blue wire.
4. The signal wire should be between 1 and 4 volts, depending on temp.
If signal wire has voltage and ground is good replace sensor
(problem is usually the wires or the plug connection )
Found some info; Was for a battery temp sensor code on a 96 Cherokee. May be helpful here?
Check the battery temperature sensor wiring under the battery tray for damage.
2. If the battery temperature sensor circuit is open, the charging rate is reduced from what it should be in cold weather.
Check the battery temp. sensor and the wiring going to it.
2. The signal wire is a Pink/Yellow.
3. The ground is a Black/Light Blue wire.
4. The signal wire should be between 1 and 4 volts, depending on temp.
If signal wire has voltage and ground is good replace sensor
(problem is usually the wires or the plug connection )
yeah well i still dont know wtf? its still over heating. i have run some cleaner in the cooling system. im starting to think theres a blockage in one of the passage ways of the block. i dont know what else it could be. has anyone else had over heating problems cause of something like that? i dont know what else i could try. anymore input from anyone would be nice
so i was reading this (COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE
The coolant temperature gauge gives an indication
of engine coolant temperature. The coolant temperature
sending unit is a thermistor that changes electrical
resistance with changes in engine coolant
temperature. High sending unit resistance causes
low coolant temperature readings. Low resistance
causes high coolant temperature readings. Sending
unit resistance values are shown in a chart in Specifications.) and i was wondering how do i test the resistance of the gauge?
The coolant temperature gauge gives an indication
of engine coolant temperature. The coolant temperature
sending unit is a thermistor that changes electrical
resistance with changes in engine coolant
temperature. High sending unit resistance causes
low coolant temperature readings. Low resistance
causes high coolant temperature readings. Sending
unit resistance values are shown in a chart in Specifications.) and i was wondering how do i test the resistance of the gauge?
so i ran my second course of cleaner through my system. it seems to regulate at like 227 to 230. i belive 230 is the next line after 210. so wtf? has anyone had a problem like that? i belive it could still be my gauges cause when i hit my fan switch or my heater on the gauge raises slightly a degree or two, but when i shut either of them off the gauge drops? well if any one has any help it would be nice. thanks